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NO LONGER STRANDED near Reno (Fernley NV)


Schurkey

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'93 Lumina Euro 3.4 DOHC

 

Cranks, won't start. Has strong spark, has fuel pressure at filter, filter NOT plugged.

 

I hear hissing at schrader valve for injector rail, but there's no liquid fuel.

 

I suspect fuel pressure regulator, but I'm open to suggestions--cam sensor?? Crank sensor?? Something else??

 

WHERE is the fuel pressure regulator? How involved to replace?

 

Tomorrow is Labor Day, probably no shops open to look at it. I think I'm gonna have to do it myself.

 

Sorry to be abrupt, but I'm on a hotel dial-up (SLOOOOOWWWW) computer, and there's a waiting line for others to use it.

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the FPR is under the plenum on the transmission side, not sure how hard it is to replace, but i coulden't imagine it being too bad to replace, any parts store should carry it, pull off the fuel lines at the fuel rail and see if you get gas out of there, it should be a single bolt that atatches the 2 fuel lines to the rail.

 

the plenum is prety easy to pull off, so i'd do it myself.

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fuel related?

no fuel at the schrader valve? as in you removed the cap and pressed the valve stem?

when you cycle the key do you hear the pump turn on for about 2 seconds?

does you car have enough gas in it? even if you filled up not long ago, it could have suffered a fuel line leak and run the tank dry. I've seen that happen :rolleyes:

 

 

timing belt related?

if you remove the oil cap, and have someone else crank the enigne. can you see the valve train parts moving?

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Update: No auto repair places in Fernley are open today. The Goodyear/Gemini place may be open tomorrow.

 

I have plenty of fuel, and pressure to the filter. (It sprays like mad when I pop the plastic clip on the fuel hose on the inlet side of the filter) I was depressing the valve core at the fuel rail schrader valve with the key OFF, and had some hissing, but no liquid fuel. Today--thinking more clearly--I pushed the schrader valve with the key ON. Lots of fuel sprayed out.

 

I was encouraged by that, so I cranked the engine. It took a long time, but the engine started and ran (but misses 'n' no power) long enough to drive it 1/2 mile to the Goodyear place.

 

Does not seem to be timing belt--when it idles it runs smooth until it dies. I'd be more likely to think that it's an igniton or fuel problem than valve timing. Even contaminated fuel would be more believable. ( I can't remember if this was happening before my fill-up in Winnemucca--I don't think so.)

I have been doing all my diagnosis using a Leatherman needlenose. I had to buy tools to pull the fuel filter. Pulling the plenum may be stretching things.

 

I've got to check out of the hotel now--I'll try to check back using their computer later, though.

 

Thanks for the replies. I appreciate the support.

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hmmm... ??? it';a a runability issue, sounds like my 95 CS w 3100, it won't idle. TO run the car I have to hold the gas in slightly to enrich the mixture.

Next time you start the car try holding the gas pedal downmaybe 1/2 way. if it doen;t start, then try holding it to the floor (pedal held at floor while starting will make the pcm will stop delivering fuel thinking it is flooded)

 

failed injector?

airbox clogged? check.

timing belt slipped a notch?

 

lost a coil? -check for spark on each wire, with a screw driver mounted in the end of the spark plug boot, and lay it atop the manifod and crank the motor.

 

 

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I got it running. It doesn't like to accelerate--misses and poor power. At the moment, it's idling beautifully. I'm convinced it's not timing belt related Throttle position sensor??? I don't know. At any rate, I'm gonna try to get over the mountains and hopefully, all the way to Stockton CA.

 

It'll be an adventure...

 

Thanks for the replies!

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Its not that hard to find. All you do is remove the rear passenger footboard/peg. Once thats off, you can easily remove the muffler belt. You'll find the canooter (or schrader) valve right behind that. Its easy to remove once you flip the peaver switch and release the fender flopper. All total takes about 5 minutes. Thats assuming you haven't already done the pair valve mod. Good luck!

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Its not that hard to find. All you do is remove the rear passenger footboard/peg. Once thats off, you can easily remove the muffler belt. You'll find the canooter (or schrader) valve right behind that. Its easy to remove once you flip the peaver switch and release the fender flopper. All total takes about 5 minutes. Thats assuming you haven't already done the pair valve mod. Good luck!

 

:lol:

 

what the hell is the schrader valve?

 

valve-stem type valve that's on the fuel rail. unscrew cap, press in center - voila, instant gasoline in eyeball.

 

 

I would guess a coil being the problem.. but it sounds like it's running too poor for just 1 coil to have gone out. I would definetly check the CPS.

 

 

Crazyk - you're too overenthused to read his posts through before you respond :wink:

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well it does sound like a spark / ignition problem

 

pull the timign belt cover and check it out, see how bad/good it works

 

however how you are talking, i'd say a coil is bad, mabie an icm if you can put a timing light on each plug wire and see if it flashes

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well it does sound like a spark / ignition problem

 

pull the timign belt cover and check it out, see how bad/good it works

 

however how you are talking, i'd say a coil is bad, mabie an icm if you can put a timing light on each plug wire and see if it flashes

 

Yeah, I'm thinking something with the ICM/Coil's they like to go bad alot. I wouldn't say Crank Position Sensor because when they go bad, the car just won't start.

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not necessarially tony, my euro 3.4s crank sensor made the car run all sorts of awful before it finally died and cut spark 100%.

 

that said i'd still put my money on a bad coil or icm. but don't rule out a crank sensor yet.

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Sounds like the timings off.

 

could be but doubtful. when i lost my tensioner actuator and my belt got all floppy/timing jumped the car ran all kinds of asstacular(at all rpm, couldnt idle) till it quit a couple miles down the road. i'd lean to spark problem somewhere.

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:lol: shut up, it was pretty much an accident. this was literally two days after I got the car back from the engine swap and everything, so the coils were in a new place and without thinking i pulled off a wire while it was running, and it didnt shock me too much, so i put it back on, and pulled another one, and found out how it should feel
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Sounds like the timings off.

 

could be but doubtful. when i lost my tensioner actuator and my belt got all floppy/timing jumped the car ran all kinds of asstacular(at all rpm, couldnt idle) till it quit a couple miles down the road. i'd lean to spark problem somewhere.

 

The timing was off on my 3.4 and its had no power and need start most of the time.

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Took two days to get from Fernley NV to my destination in Stockton CA. (about 300 miles?)

 

Ran OK at highway speed--55-60+. Faster was better. 70-80 went pretty well--some missing but not bad at all. As soon as the speed came down, the car would miss, buck, hesitate, and stall and I'd be sitting by the side of the road for a couple of hours trying to get it started again. And then struggle up to highway speed again. It would take miles to get to 55--60.

 

Picking car up from repair place. They said fuel pump was weak--8psi when it worked, which wasn't always. Kinda intermittent, I guess.

 

They're charging $550 to install the fuel pump. Seems excessive to me.

 

Anyway, it looks like I've got a fixed vehicle now.

 

Thanks, all.

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They're charging $550 to install the fuel pump. Seems excessive to me.

 

 

 

Well, its good you got it figured out!

 

FWIW: They have to drop the tank to get the pump out.

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