THe_DeTAiL3R Posted August 28, 2006 Report Share Posted August 28, 2006 Symptoms: With engine running and heat on- smell of coolant. If I have it set to defog the windows start to steam up. Turn it to "cool" and it's fine (no coolant smell). I haven't noticed any leaking of coolant (YET). I'm assuming I need to change my heater core. Stupid car was fine this morning. I tried searching, but found no useful information on how to change it, other than the fact that it's wedged up somewhere behind the dash. Anyone have a writeup, or pics?? I might just bypass it for now (2 hoses that go into the firewall, right?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pontiac6KSTEAWD Posted August 28, 2006 Report Share Posted August 28, 2006 I did this on the TGP, and I gotta say this, NEVER IN MY FUCKING LIFE WILL I DO IT AGAIN! Send it to a shop. Those things are such a pain in the ass. Or bypass it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted August 28, 2006 Report Share Posted August 28, 2006 you might as well fix it Dave since we have winter and you'll want some heat eventually... but yeah sounds like a heater core or something of that nature..... Only other time I've smelt coolant in the interior before was when the head gaskets were elaking (This was on my dad's old Taurus w/ pos 3.8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted August 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2006 Only other time I've smelt coolant in the interior before was when the head gaskets were elaking (This was on my dad's old Taurus w/ pos 3.8) Well as soon as I smelt it I kept my eyes glued to the temp gadge till I got home, then I popped the hood and looked for anything (didn't SEE anything). Oil looked okay and coolant level was still in a normal range. It couldn't have lost much on that short trip, so I'm gonna keep an eye on it for now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 28, 2006 Report Share Posted August 28, 2006 GOD i need to take pictures and do a write up. i would be good at that, i have rebuilt twop HVAC units and service two more. This I know and did twice on two W's in a week. For the timmediate moment, You can but cheap plugs and cap off the heater core circuit to prevent continued leaking. IF you have the original heater core, you can replace the heater core with FAR LESS WORK than if you don't, PROVIDED you get anoth OEM heater core. Whys that? becasue the OEM heater core can be seperate from the tubes they attach to under the dash far easier than disconnecting the hoses from the tubes under the hood, IMO. they have a metal snap and lock ring on each tub that can be relacsed with a small screwdriver. You will see an O-ring between the tubes and the heater core itself. Upon reassembly, I lube then with silicone (or dielectric) grease, and make sure the retainer rings have all tabes snap on. I purchased a used heater core from a j/y, from a low mileage car that I ripped the dash out of anyhow, for the firewall plate. The first heater core was just clogged, an acid flush fixed that and it went into the second car. and no probelms since The drain must have been clogged and standing water rusted it out. I've seen about 8 used heater cores, all the other were nice and shiney and reuseable. while you are in the box, clean out the filter and check the backside of the evaporator for crud. Also, you have the 94+ dash (iirc) which IMO make the job a PITA. the plastic tray/bottom of the HVAC is blocked by the edge of the dash, it is easy enough to remove the bolts at the leaft and rigth edge of tha dash and I think that would allow you to push it out at the bottom about an inch.... etc etc. the tray is either held in my 7mm or by 3/16 inch bolts (iirc) also for clearance on the tray, you have to remove the lower kick pads above your feet, of course, and you have to remove the accelorator pedals mount from the firewall. and do not force it to move.... i broke two trays already. does that help? I should use what i posted here for the start of a write-up. Please ask any question you may have! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted August 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2006 wow that looks like fun.. lol Where exactly is it located? In the middle of the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 29, 2006 Report Share Posted August 29, 2006 wow that looks like fun.. lol Where exactly is it located? In the middle of the car? yes, like getting teeth pulled. yes center bottom in the middle of the dash. Oh and sorry but you must remove the center console for access!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted August 29, 2006 Report Share Posted August 29, 2006 x2 on cleaning the evaporator. Why? It gets caked in dirt, dust, and other crap. That's probably what stinks when you turn the air on in older cars. I also think this is why auto makers finally started to put cabin filters in cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted August 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2006 Well I got quoted $75 for the part (my cost) + 2.3hrs labor ($60/hr). So around $213 plus tax, not as bad as I thought it might be. Today I added some Bars Stop leak... it seems to be helping a bit so far. I didn't get much of it into the radiator cause the engine was still a little bit warm, so I ended up dumping most of it in the reservoir. When I first added it, the smell seemed to have gone away about 80%, but it was just idling. When I drove home (heat on full blast, on defog) the smell came back (not as bad though) and the windshield didn't fog up at all. I think I'll have to wait until the rest of it gets into the system to see if it's gonna work; I might wait till the engine is totally cool and siphen the shit out of the reservoir and swap it into the rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 30, 2006 Report Share Posted August 30, 2006 I would recommend just capping off the pipes that lead to the heatercore. You will have to flush the system throughly to get the stop leak out. What ever it takes. I will be doing a writeup soon on the hvac, as soon as i cross reference the manual and take pics of my loose one.... if you can wait a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted August 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2006 I will be doing a writeup soon on the hvac, as soon as i cross reference the manual and take pics of my loose one.... if you can wait a week. Yeah i can wait.. lol If the heatercore desides to split itself in half and gush coolant, I just gotta connect the 2 hoses together from the firewall (I don't think I even need to buy anything). I got like a gallon of AF in the trunk so no worries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted September 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2006 Well the leak is getting worse. Tomorrow morning I think I'm gonna bypass the heatercore until the weekend when I got time to tear it down. After looking at the Haynes manual, it doesnt look like that hard of a job, but it does look like it will take some time. QUESTION: Is it possible that a heatercore can be plugged (but not leaking) causing the engine to run hotter than normal? I'm just wondering if it's possible that it might have been a reason why the engine runs a bit hotter than it should (my other diagnosis is the radiator...) Anyways, I took a few shots from the Haynes manual. Excuse my terrible pictures.. but I think it's readable Does this look like all the steps involved? If anyone wants higher quality I can redo it... make this in like 5min lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pontiac6KSTEAWD Posted September 5, 2006 Report Share Posted September 5, 2006 As said befor, its not nearly as easy as you think. It gets alot easier when you take out the center console, i will say that. But that thing is a MOFO, especially if you have the PM3 cause it blocks almost all access to the lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted September 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2006 As said befor, its not nearly as easy as you think. It gets alot easier when you take out the center console, i will say that. But that thing is a MOFO, especially if you have the PM3 cause it blocks almost all access to the lines. It looks REALLY easy to get at the heater core lines from the firewall in the engine bay on my car I *might* not even have to tilt the engine! Center console is easy... had it out a few months ago for paint. Like 4 bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted September 5, 2006 Report Share Posted September 5, 2006 Whenever you have a "leak" in the cooling system, you effectively lower the boiling point of the coolant. What happens is that the leak lowers the pressure in the system, and the pressure is part of the equation for raising the boiling point (the other being your percentage of coolant mixed with water.) So that being said, the leaky heater core could be contributing to your car's raised operating temp. The only way to really be sure is to temporarily bypass the heater core (easiest way is to remove the hoses supplying the core and splicing them together...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted September 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2006 This morning I bypassed the core using the top hose, but it was too small (bend in it, causing too much pressure) so it started to leak out of the one 'nipple'. I got 3ft of hose from work and that leak has appeared to have stopped now that the coolant can flow properly. Ordered a core from work.. $75 my cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 Did your operating temp go down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 ouch, $75, but not so bad if that's for an OEM one. Ive done heater core jobs on 3 separate occasions, but never with your style dash. It was nothing difficult, just time consuming and hard on your back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 I'd rather go OEM, if i had the choice. I have and will salvage good conditioned used ones as long as W-bodys are in J/Ys. again any gen 1 or gen 1.5 W has the same heater core. be patient as you remove the plastic bottom cover of the HVAC unit, so you don't crack it. I always have to remove the accelorat0or pedal etc etc... don;t force it or you'll break it like I have done. if you have any problems, let us know.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted September 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 Did your operating temp go down? Not really (the temperature outside is cooler, so I'm factoring that in...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted September 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 EDIT: Made a writeup on the procedure. Now the car is nice and toasty http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php/topic,49938.0.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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