CSI_MuNkY Posted August 24, 2006 Report Posted August 24, 2006 Well, the car died on me again today. I pulled the car into the garage to do a rutine oil change, while I was at it I topped off my power steering fluid. When I went to start the car all I got was clicking... loud click click click click... whats everyone think? Starter solenoid? My main worry is that something happened to the engine, although I have my doubts cause it was running fine (with the exception of the crappy idle). Jamie Quote
19Cutlass94 Posted August 24, 2006 Report Posted August 24, 2006 Dont do that too often or else youll just need a replacement then and there. Just get it fixed before your stranded somewhere. Quote
Mach 5 Posted August 24, 2006 Report Posted August 24, 2006 I agree. Smack it with a hammer. (Until you get a replacement of course) Quote
CSI_MuNkY Posted August 24, 2006 Author Report Posted August 24, 2006 We tried the hammer trick, no change... I made an apointment with my fathers mechanic for the morning, hes going to look at the starting issue and the idle issue... I'll update when I know more... Jamie Quote
runt Posted August 24, 2006 Report Posted August 24, 2006 Probably the idle re-learn procedure would fix that problem...as for the starting issue, it's tough to say. Is the battery old? DId your connections come loose? Knowing that you just had your car worked on, I would check all of your electrical connections just to make sure one isn't just a bit loose. I know my Cutty did that before (the loud, click click trying to start) crap when I had a loose connection to the battery. Quote
CSI_MuNkY Posted August 24, 2006 Author Report Posted August 24, 2006 OK... my father and I spent the morning working on the car... We attempted another boost, this time using his new truck and new booster cables and it fired right up. The reason we boosted it was cause we were getting ready to pull it down to his mechanic with a tow strap when I couldn't get my 4-ways to work... So we got it running pulled it in the driveway and pulled the battery. To my shock and surprise (enter sarcasim here) the positve terminal was loose! This is the 2nd loose thing I have found since I had the work done, last time I found something loose I popped the hood to find that the intake tube had come apart from the MAF... so every time I stepped on the gas it was twisting away from the MAF and sucking in more air than the MAF knew about... We took the battery to the local canadian tire and they said it was holding a charge just fine (battery is an Eliminator, and has a date stamp of July 01) When we pulled the battery I spotted a hose that had been severed. It turned out to be the hose going to the vaccuum reservoir, we're thinking that it could have something to do with the bad idle. It was covered in the same yellow powder that was in the battery tray and the material was very brital. I'm just waiting on the battery to charge before I give it a go and take it for a drive to see how everything is. Will update later today Jamie Quote
Regal_GS_1989 Posted August 24, 2006 Report Posted August 24, 2006 I dont think I would ever take my car back to that shop again if they're leaving all kinds of stuff loose. Quote
CSI_MuNkY Posted August 24, 2006 Author Report Posted August 24, 2006 I dont think I would ever take my car back to that shop again if they're leaving all kinds of stuff loose. Yeah, I don't plan on it... I didn't plan on it after they took 16 days to do the job they said would take 3! (They didn't start on it till the 13th day) Bottom line is, I didn't know what I was doing with the timing and they wanted half of what other places wanted and gave me a 90 day guarenty on the labour... The car now runs, but its still idling like crap. I've got an apointment first thing monday morning with my parents mechanic, he is going to fix the idle problems... hopefully Jamie Quote
97loudcut Posted August 24, 2006 Report Posted August 24, 2006 just swap in a 3100 and all your problems will disapear Quote
CSI_MuNkY Posted August 24, 2006 Author Report Posted August 24, 2006 ummm, and downgrade? nah, I'm going to upgrade with a 3800 once I am done school and can afford another car while this one is off the road... All I need to get out of this engine is another 6 to 8 months... Jamie Quote
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted August 24, 2006 Report Posted August 24, 2006 just swap in a 3100 and all your problems will disapear maybe a 3.1MPFI As I was reading your post I wondered "did he check the positive aux terminal.... hmm" very common problem with these cars. Quote
CSI_MuNkY Posted August 25, 2006 Author Report Posted August 25, 2006 L36 or L67...? I'm not exactly sure at this point, on one hand I could go with the supercharged L67, on the other hand I could turbo the L36... I still have a good 6 to 8 months to figure out which one I will be going with... As I was reading your post I wondered "did he check the positive aux terminal.... hmm" very common problem with these cars. That was the first thing I checked... had it go bad once already on me... The battery is starting to die yet again. Its going in on monday to get the charging system checked out, but I'm wondering if maybe the alt isn't making enough power to supply the subs AND charge the battery. I took the car for an e-test today and they told me to save my money and fix the idle first. They said its the IAC, so I ordered one today, it should be here tomorrow morning Jamie Quote
chadz34 Posted August 25, 2006 Report Posted August 25, 2006 L36 or L67...? I'm not exactly sure at this point, on one hand I could go with the supercharged L67, on the other hand I could turbo the L36... I still have a good 6 to 8 months to figure out which one I will be going with... As I was reading your post I wondered "did he check the positive aux terminal.... hmm" very common problem with these cars. That was the first thing I checked... had it go bad once already on me... The battery is starting to die yet again. Its going in on monday to get the charging system checked out, but I'm wondering if maybe the alt isn't making enough power to supply the subs AND charge the battery. I took the car for an e-test today and they told me to save my money and fix the idle first. They said its the IAC, so I ordered one today, it should be here tomorrow morning Jamie I am gonna order one of those tomorrow, I am sick of idling problems too, the re-learn helped a bit though. Quote
CSI_MuNkY Posted August 25, 2006 Author Report Posted August 25, 2006 I am gonna order one of those tomorrow, I am sick of idling problems too, the re-learn helped a bit though. Yeah the idle re-learn only helped me slightly.... It stopped the car from stalling right out, but tahts about it Jamie Quote
CSI_MuNkY Posted August 27, 2006 Author Report Posted August 27, 2006 OK... now I'm at a loss... I've installed the new IAC and done the idle re-learn once again, its still not idling worth crap! My father and I noticed something else today. For the last little while I have had the engine cover off the car, including when it went in to the shop. Now the cover won't go back in place. It hits a steel line that goes parallel with the fuel rails, we think its a vaccuum line and my dad says it goes to a canister below the intake assembly. This line now being in the way, I inspected it and it looks as though it may be slightly pinched off, does anyone know what it is for? Could it be effecting my idle? I'll try to get a pic in a few minutes, might not work, its dark out... In other news my battery died AGAIN today. Knowing the battery is "ok" according to Canadian Tires tester, that leaves me to think the Alternator has always been somewhat bad (or went bad when the car was sitting for 2 months). But now that I have subs running there is no excess power to charge the battery. Something I have noticed is that when I am in London, I hit a stretch of road where I'm going 100km/h+ at least twice a day and never had battery problems. Now, I'm spending the week at my parents place in a small town where I'm lucky to hit 70km/h and the battery keeps crapping out on me. The amp I'm using is only a 500W amp, C-bad said its not likely to be sucking too much power, so I'm thinking my alt is basically toast... any thoughts? Jamie Quote
CSI_MuNkY Posted August 27, 2006 Author Report Posted August 27, 2006 Heres a couple pics of that line. Under each is a link to a higher res pic http://www.petridish.net/pics/25850/CIMG1027.JPG Here is the kink I speak of... http://www.petridish.net/pics/25850/CIMG1028.JPG Jamie Quote
Regal_GS_1989 Posted August 27, 2006 Report Posted August 27, 2006 Its the Line to the vacuum modulator. Unless your trans is shifting really really firm,, I wouldnt' worry about the kink. Quote
CSI_MuNkY Posted August 27, 2006 Author Report Posted August 27, 2006 Its the Line to the vacuum modulator. Unless your trans is shifting really really firm,, I wouldnt' worry about the kink. Ummm, I have the 4T60-E... does the E not stand for Electronic?? Jamie Quote
Regal_GS_1989 Posted August 27, 2006 Report Posted August 27, 2006 Its the Line to the vacuum modulator. Unless your trans is shifting really really firm,, I wouldnt' worry about the kink. Ummm, I have the 4T60-E... does the E not stand for Electronic?? Jamie Yes it does. The 4T60 E is a slightly different setup than most other E transmissions. The Shift points are controlled electronically through the ECM and are dependant on Demand, speed, temperature etc... However, it only controls the the shift points, thats where the vacuum modulator comes into play. The more load on the engine, the less vacuum there is, the less vacuum there is, the firmer the transmission will shift. And vice versa. Quote
CSI_MuNkY Posted August 28, 2006 Author Report Posted August 28, 2006 got it back... AGAIN... This time it idles just fine and the battery is holding a charge! The battery that I had was toast, when they went to charge it, it started to smoke... The idle problem was a joke! Turns out the shop that I had do the head gaskets, forgot to plug in the O2 sensor!!! All my dads mechanic did was plug it in and clean the TB and all is fine! Jamie Quote
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