mcbfarm Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 Some time ago I joined the pack of people in search of replacement lower outer weatherstripping for the rear quarter windows on the 91-95 Cutlass Convertible. Problem is they get hard with age and when you lower the top, the rim of the "sail window" (part of the top) pushes the hardened weatherstrip where it doesn't want to go and gradually shreds it. After looking high and low I took matters into my own hands. Three days are required, mostly to allow adhesive to dry overnight in two steps. From a local supplier of rubber and plastics, I got a strip of 1/8" thick, 4" wide rubber. Original weatherstrip is probably EDPM rubber, and what I got is neoprene, but with the adhesive I used that doesn't really matter, it can adhere to glass, so mixing rubber types is no problem! From the NAPA paint store I got a caulk-gun sized tube of urethane windshield sealant (a smaller tube would suffice). Tried 3M trim adhesive -- contact cement -- but the rubber separated after a few days. This windshield stuff BONDS -- it holds big glass in at high speed. Start with the top raised. First you have to remove the long curved trim from the center pillar along the top-body interface and back to the trunk. Get in the trunk and reach underneath and to the sides of top's water-catching vinyl and remove three locknuts with 8mm heads. I used a deep 8mm socket on a 1/4" drive, and could JUST reach the furthest. Next, raise the top and lower the window. Now drill out the rivets holding the problem weatherstrip. Trace the outline of the entire piece onto the rubber strip and cut it out. The top edge you want straight so use a straightedge as much as you can -- actually there are two straight zones and a curve between; the neater the tracing and cutting, the better the result. Now the real fun. Now trim the original weatherstrip back so about only 3/8" to 1/2" of flat stuff remains next to and along the raised round bump at the midline of the original strip. Clean the entire mess with a rubber/vinyl CLEANER (NOT protectant). Rubbing alcohol works in a pinch. Prepare a clamping apparatus using spring clamps and strips of wood or metal, so that the EDPM can be held in place until the urethane hardens. I glued the new strip to the rivet-hole surface on one day, and the rest after that dried -- but if you have enough clamps and hands go for it all at once... Apply urethane to the outer surface of the original weatherstrip, apply the EDPM, line up the strips of wood and clamp on. Next day, remove clamps and redrill rivet holes and use 1/2" long round head slotted screws except for I think one 3/8" at the frontmost (little clearance) and locknuts. Bolts would be nice, but the heads have to allow the outer trip strip to lay flat. My effort looked great, the only problem is that it looks newer than the other weatherstrip. The original had fuzzy backing, but if the 4" strip was cut right, it just barely touches the glass and the angle is such that it doesn't flod over. Perhaps in a two hour stiff storm, 1/8 cup of water will get past this refit and end up in the water-catching vinyl designed to catch water from the top when it's lowered... By the time the new rubber hardens in another twenty years, hopefully some aftermarket shop will make the real thing, since I don't think the new rubber can be peeled off the old once the urethane takes hold... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 22, 2006 Report Share Posted August 22, 2006 sounds interesting, but man... pics!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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