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Killed my amp... getting a new system!


Monkton

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Yeah so my POS amp died today so I decided to get a whole new setup. I think I'm gonna go with Powerbass monoblock and two 10'' Powerbass subs. I was also thinking about putting the subs in the rear deck where the 6x9's are and moving those to the rear doors or something like that. But I'm willing to take suggestions and advice. So give some ideas guys.

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Dude, just spend a little bit of money, and get some quality equipment. I dont think Ive even heard of powerbass, so it cant be good :lol:

 

Heres what you should get, a one 12" sub sealed with the right amp to push it. Upgrade the cabin speakers, there you go. This will sound good.

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I dont know If I would put them in the rear deck. You would have to do some major reinforcing of it first. It would resonate like crazy. I would put them in the trunk, and relocate the rear speakers to the doors, if you wanna keep them. The rear pass through into the trunk utilizing the rear speaker holes will increase your cars spl output. It added .7db for me.

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The rear pass through into the trunk utilizing the rear speaker holes will increase your cars spl output. It added .7db for me.

 

When I go to get my system metered, Ill have to remember to take mine out!

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Go for the Powerbass

 

http://www.powerbassusa.com/ For those of you not in the know. PB is a pretty good company. Theres a fair amount of competitors using them.

 

I would go for it. Just remember, you get what you pay for... Im not sure if I would go with the very low end, maybe the mid area...

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Powerbass stuff is not that great, but their higher end line; powerbass extreme or PBX I believe they are called for short are pretty good sub wise. I have no idea on the amps however. I would scrap the rear shelf idea and just put them in the trunk. And I would also recommend a ported box.

 

What kind of amp did you have and how did you blow it? J/w.

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Oh ya, the rear shelf thing.

 

Ive been there and done that.

 

It sucked balls and was a mistake and I would never do it or reccomend it to anyone, period.

 

I used CDT MS-100 mini box 12" subs sealed in a 1995 Monte Carlo Z34. It wasnt loud and it didnt have shlt for output...

 

I then removed that setup and placed the same box (removed from the shelf) in the trunk facing the rear. 100x's better!

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Powerbass stuff is not that great, but their higher end line; powerbass extreme or PBX I believe they are called for short are pretty good sub wise. I have no idea on the amps however. I would scrap the rear shelf idea and just put them in the trunk. And I would also recommend a ported box.

 

What kind of amp did you have and how did you blow it? J/w.

 

I bridged my amp to one of my dual subwoofers and had it cranked pretty good for the whole day. I guess my amp couldn't handle it so it just stopped. It still turns on (light goes on) but nothing comes from the woofers. I know the amp doesn't work because I hooked a little MTX RoadThunder up to it and nothing happened. I just hope my subs haven't seized up because I think I might know someone who'll buy them. My system was a less than perfect Visonik dual 12'' subs and 400w 2 channel amp. Made good sound and you could definitely feel it inside of you on the inside of my car.

 

But now I'm thinking I might go with a Kicker Solobaric setup after seeing one at Circuit City last night. They have an L5 10'' on clearance for $175 and I was thinking about getting a PowerBass amp to power it. What do you guys think of the solobarics? The one for $400 kicked EXTREMELY hard.

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I think they are square trash and wouldnt waste my $$$ on inferior designs...

 

If anyone cares to notice, every year kicker makes an "improvement" to the L5 or L7 its based on the need to redesign the surrounds/cones.

 

Get the CVX or whatever the "round" solo is if you MUST get Kicker. THe longevity of the sub will please you ;)

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Well today I went down to another local shop and the guy there showed me his two 10'' Alpine TypeR with an Alpine amp and it was sick haha But waaay to expensive. So I got the Solobaric and next week I'm getting a Memphis 500w rms 1000w max amplifier to power it. Just a question though, how do I wire the solobaric in parallel mode? Because that will make my subwoofer run 2 ohms instead of 4 because it's the dual coil one. I know that some people hate Kicker and others love them. I love them.

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Nice choice with Kicker! I have two 12" l5s and I love them! A buddy of mine has that one L5 10" ported box from CC in the back of his explorer, its pretty damn loud for one 10, and thats running off a POS xplod amp. That Memphis amp is a good choice to, I used to have a 250W mono Memphis. I used it for awhile and then it made the rounds in a few of my friends vehicles. Right now its powering a Kicker CVR 15" (which also once belonged to me) in my friends hatchback dodge daytona. Its damn loud and that amp just keeps on going and going.

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No difference outside of different wiring options to provide different Ohm loads to the amplifier...

 

More flexiblity overall...

 

Ummm, you probably dont want to run it series to the amp though, less Ohms = more power providing the amp can hang with it.

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  • 4 weeks later...

You need two or more subs in order to run parallel or series. With only one, you'll run at 4 ohms. Parallel wiring means that you have each sub wired with the positive leads to the positive output on the amp and the negative leads to the negative output. Series means that you connect the positive lead out of one sub to the negative lead on the other sub, then the leftover negative and positive leads (+ on one sub and - on the other) get wired to the amp. I'm not entirely sure what the benefits of one over the other are, but lower ohm rating typically means a more efficient system, where you'll get more power out of your amp, IIRC.

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Unless its a DVC sub. Really, the basic difference between the two is having different ohm subs to bridge what ohm you basically want.. ( although not every way is possible )

 

Oh yeah, i didn't notice you said it was a DVC sub.

 

It's the same idea for a DVC sub.... you have the same options for hooking up each voice coil on a DVC sub as you have for hooking up two single voice coil subs.

series would be the negative lead of one VC to the positive lead of the other VC. Then the leftover + and - leads of each VC go to the amp.

parallel would be the negative lead of the amp split to each VC and the positive lead of the amp split to each VC... basically + to + and - to -.

 

 

some DVC subs (and i'm not sure about yours) have just a single set of terminals and there's a switch or jumper on the sub to switch between parallel and series. so that would take all the thinking out of it.

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