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Replacing ball joints, bushings


crc

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I did my balljoints with nothing more than a socket set, a prybar and a blowtorch. It worked, but was a severe pain in the ass. Took about 4 and a half hours to do both. I'd recommend using either one of those balljoint separator tools, or the impact gun as previously mentioned. Aside from removing the ball joint from the control arm, it was a piece of cake. Something to watch out for: Once you remove the balljoint from the knuckle, make sure you don't move the axle / knuckle / strut assembly too far out or you run the risk of pulling it right out of the differential (so I'm told) Can anyone verify this?

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the only thing people need to be careful with is the axle shaft. Pull on that thing too hard and you will end up repairing the inner joint or replacing the whole shaft. :) :) :)

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If you do accidentally pull the axle out of the differential (tranny), all you have to do is just push it back in till it clicks!

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I replaced them on my sister's '93, took maybe 1-2 hours per side. I drilled down the center of each rivet, till the hole just passed the surface of the joint, then used a chisel and with a hammer....1, 2, 3 the head falls off. Repeat 4 times, then pry the joint off with a prybar. As for the axle, I just removed the axle nut and used the puller to push the shaft partially out of the wheel bearing, just enough so it's "loose".

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Thanks gentlemen.

 

The bushings I will diffenently replace along w/ the b-joints. The struts are only about a year old and the springs are fine. I'm wondering if there's anything else that effects ride quality because at this point I'm still feeling harshness on rougher surfaces, and harshness on all surfaces in low speeds. I would like to get back the tightness and better damping in the front suspension.

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There is a special procedure on changing CA bushings, but screw it. Alot of us don't have a press for the bushings, and the patience to use it. I did mine using a torch, 5# sledge hammer, and a socket the same size as the bushing sleeve(not the bushing itself) Take the two CA bolts out and remove the arm from the vehicle. Position the arm on a work bench, table, ground or whatever so you can strike it with a hammer. And for all of you reading this, don't worry you won't bend the arm if you hit it too hard! If you have access to a torch or something similar, use it. Torch the old rubber portion out of the control arm,(it will make lots of smoke and fire) and once that is out all you have to do is peel the sleeve out and put the new one in. It took me less than an hour to do both sides on my Z34.

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Do the bushing sleeves slip outwards or inwards?? Meaning, is there a locating lip on one end which prevents it from coming out in 1 particular direction?

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No believe it or not the bushings are actually cheap. You can check with Energy Suspension for a list of their bushings. I'll see if I can dig up my receipt for my bushings. I went with a polyurethane bushing and spent a total of about 25 bucks for both sides. Yes they do come with the sleeves and are ready to install. One thing I should mention to anyone do CA bushings is that before you put them in, grease them up with a heavy weight grease before you install them in the arm and install the arm in the car. That will eliminate any possibility of an annoying squeak. :) :)

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I'm looking for rubber, I dont want to use poly in that particular part of the suspension. I'm going to do a quick check over the internet. I was going to get another set of control arms from my friend's parts car, but I THINK if I replace the CA's, I'll need an alignment. Plus new rubber is good!

 

PS- you mean use grease on the sleeves to make it easier to install?

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It would'nt hurt to have your alignment checked after replacing you CA bushings :) . I used poly's in mine, just because of the handling characteristics of them. the poly's dont compress and deform like rubber under load. Use grease on the sleeves and where the bushings contact the car. :) :) :)

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