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Brakes giving out


Nick1234

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Ok so last week on the lumina, i put 2 new front calipers on, with duralast gold brake pads. I bled them both starting with the passenger side, till a steady streak came out then the drivers side. I drove it and it was fine, even under a good amount of pressure. Well tonight i was driving next to someone and i just so happened to have to go from 70 to 30 rather quickly, and i pretty much lost all braking power. The pedal was as far down as i could go, there was pressure, but not enough to stop me. Almost like an extreme amount of fade,or like there was water on the rotors. That feeling. lucky there wasn't anyone in front of me. THe fronts bascially were hardly helping at all. What should i look into.

 

 

Nick

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Did you replace the "crush washers" that fit around the bolt that bolts the brake hose to the caliper? If not, you could be slowly leaking fluid out from the junction of the hose and caliper...

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You mentioned bleeding the brakes. Did you bleed them all or just the fronts? When you bleed brakes, you need to bleed them all.

 

x2 had the same thing happen, except i wasn't doing 70 lol

 

Edit: 3000th post!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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see i thought the same thing but was told that you just have to do the fronts, or whatever caliper you replaced. I will do that then.

 

Nope. You gotta do them all. As soon as you take one caliper off, you need to bleed all the brakes.

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see i thought the same thing but was told that you just have to do the fronts, or whatever caliper you replaced. I will do that then.

 

Nope. You gotta do them all. As soon as you take one caliper off, you need to bleed all the brakes.

 

Almost right BUT......

If you have conventional brake system then you only have to bleed the calipers where the work is done.

I know this for a fact because today i finished the 94+ upgrade to the rear on my 92 cutlass. :smile:

Brakes are rock solid after only bleeding the rear and what a sweet diffrence!

 

If you have ABS on the other hand you do have to bleed all 4 and the recommended bleeding sequence is:

R.rear, L.rear,R.front,L.front in that order. Also while bleeding the brakes allow @ least 5seconds to elapse between closing & re-opening the bleeder valve. (Maybe this is what slick was refering to.)

The above was taken from the Mitchell repair manual.

 

just wanted to clarify.

have phun!

 

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I have always read that when you bleed one brake, you gotta bleed them all.

 

But I always follow the R.rear, L.rear, R.front, L.front sequence just so I know all brakes are good.

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ive heard a both ways from many people. It could also be possible that my master cylinder is going aswell.

 

Nick

 

 

That could be true to. If it is, you might want to upgrade the brake booster as well.

I think 96+ had a bigger booster, and i belive it will fit with the 3.1L.

Maybe somene else could clarify on that or search the forums.

 

L8r

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  • 1 month later...

just an update. I believe i narrowed it down to the fact that the night i was out driving it was 95+ outside and when i went to hit the brakes to stop quickly, the rubber hose was expanding therefor i would loose pressure. Time to get steel brake lines.

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