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3.4 to a 3.8 swap!


chadz34

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I've been thinking of doing the same (with a mid-90s L36) cause hopefully the computers would be the same/similar and be an easy swap. Down the road change the wiring/computer and get the turbo kit..

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Ok, so you still wanted the car to drive around while you were working on the LQ1. How about you just buy an LQ1 out of a wrecked car in a J/Y and put it in while you are working on the nice one, then you wouldn't have to change anything.

 

Kyle

 

"edit" the same thing basically was typed while i was typing"

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Ok, so you still wanted the car to drive around while you were working on the LQ1. How about you just buy an LQ1 out of a wrecked car in a J/Y and put it in while you are working on the nice one, then you wouldn't have to change anything.

 

Kyle

 

"edit" the same thing basically was typed while i was typing"

They are hard to find around here, I think I may be able to get one....Probably doesn't run though. I would need a 96' engine correct? Or will any LQ1 work?

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It's not as easy as pulling one out and dropping another in....

 

Basically what I am saying is that if your wanting to work on an LQ1 thats not in an engine bay, buy another one. Don't waste your time or money on an engine that's not beneficial to you.

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It's not as easy as pulling one out and dropping another in....

 

Basically what I am saying is that if your wanting to work on an LQ1 thats not in an engine bay, buy another one. Don't waste your time or money on an engine that's not beneficial to you.

:werd:

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It's not as easy as pulling one out and dropping another in....

 

Basically what I am saying is that if your wanting to work on an LQ1 thats not in an engine bay, buy another one. Don't waste your time or money on an engine that's not beneficial to you.

:werd:

 

That's the obvious solution. For what it's going to cost to modify your car to accept the 3.8, you'd be well on your way to buying a spare LQ1. If you drop in the 3.8, then you're going to have to de-modify it to accept the LQ1 again. Too much hassle. Save up and buy an LQ1, so when it comes time to put the new engine in, it's a simple drop-in.

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It's not as easy as pulling one out and dropping another in....

 

Basically what I am saying is that if your wanting to work on an LQ1 thats not in an engine bay, buy another one. Don't waste your time or money on an engine that's not beneficial to you.

:werd:

 

That's the obvious solution. For what it's going to cost to modify your car to accept the 3.8, you'd be well on your way to buying a spare LQ1. If you drop in the 3.8, then you're going to have to de-modify it to accept the LQ1 again. Too much hassle. Save up and buy an LQ1, so when it comes time to put the new engine in, it's a simple drop-in.

 

For the cost of modifying the car(i'm saying this because from his other threads, he will need help doing this) you can pick up a pretty decently mileage lq1. Then, for the cost of the 3.8, and your probably looking at one in the $300-$400 range, you could buy a whole new gasket kit.

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For the cost of a 3.8 swap. ( depending on if its an L67, which the motor is worth more ) you can completely rebuild an LQ1. And maybe get a little more power from it as well. And if your wanted to put the LQ1 back in, thats a total waste of time and money to do that. If you absolutly need something to drive while doing this engine work, pick up a beater.

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http://www.l67swap.com

 

Seeing as they're both 96's, you shouldn't have to do any rewiring of the 3800's engine harness. According to L67swap.com, each W-body model year is wired exactly the same on the bulkhead connector regardless of what engine it has. I would bet you could drop the 3.8 right in and plug the harness and PCM into your car with no problems...

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http://www.l67swap.com

 

Seeing as they're both 96's, you shouldn't have to do any rewiring of the 3800's engine harness. According to L67swap.com, each W-body model year is wired exactly the same on the bulkhead connector regardless of what engine it has. I would bet you could drop the 3.8 right in and plug the harness and PCM into your car with no problems...

That's basically saying any engine for a W-body is plug and play.

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I think you misunderstood my statement.

According to L67swap.com, each W-body model year is wired exactly the same on the bulkhead connector regardless of what engine it has.

In other words, you can swap a motor from the same year and it'll be plug and play. Any motor from a 96 W-Body will drop right into any 96 W car and will not require any rewiring at the bulkhead.

 

If L67swap was up right now, you could look at the wiring diagrams and see what I mean...

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not to come off as a dick, but you just had the car to a shop to find a vaccum leak that you coulden't find yourself? i think you need more experience before you go replacing an engine, let alone a swap. its alot of work no matter what.

 

i'd imagine that the downpipe would be different, powersteering lines, throtle cables, and lots of other misc things

 

so what exactly makes you want to pull it out in favor of something else?

 

 

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I think you misunderstood my statement.

 

Quote from: DiscoStudd on July 18, 2006, 01:50:50 PM

According to L67swap.com, each W-body model year is wired exactly the same on the bulkhead connector regardless of what engine it has.

 

In other words, you can swap a motor from the same year and it'll be plug and play. Any motor from a 96 W-Body will drop right into any 96 W car and will not require any rewiring at the bulkhead.

 

If L67swap was up right now, you could look at the wiring diagrams and see what I mean...

 

 

 

also depending on option level.

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not to come off as a dick, but you just had the car to a shop to find a vaccum leak that you coulden't find yourself? i think you need more experience before you go replacing an engine, let alone a swap. its alot of work no matter what.

 

i'd imagine that the downpipe would be different, powersteering lines, throtle cables, and lots of other misc things

 

so what exactly makes you want to pull it out in favor of something else?

 

 

Obviously you haven't seen a 96' DOHC. The vacuum lines are plastic, so you can't tell where the leak is without silicon spray. Usually you would be able to squeeze them to get to the leak.

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not to come off as a dick, but you just had the car to a shop to find a vaccum leak that you coulden't find yourself? i think you need more experience before you go replacing an engine, let alone a swap. its alot of work no matter what.

 

i'd imagine that the downpipe would be different, powersteering lines, throtle cables, and lots of other misc things

 

so what exactly makes you want to pull it out in favor of something else?

 

 

Obviously you haven't seen a 96' DOHC. The vacuum lines are plastic, so you can't tell where the leak is without silicon spray. Usually you would be able to squeeze them to get to the leak.

 

Obviously you take me for an idiot, its not too terribably difficult to trace a vaccum leak. i can gaurentee that i've worked on more LQ1s of any year then you ever will.

 

and once again you have failed to answer my question...

 

oh wait is this gona go the way of the "i'm getting NOS" thread? :rolleyes:

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not to come off as a dick, but you just had the car to a shop to find a vaccum leak that you coulden't find yourself? i think you need more experience before you go replacing an engine, let alone a swap. its alot of work no matter what.

 

i'd imagine that the downpipe would be different, powersteering lines, throtle cables, and lots of other misc things

 

so what exactly makes you want to pull it out in favor of something else?

 

 

Obviously you haven't seen a 96' DOHC. The vacuum lines are plastic, so you can't tell where the leak is without silicon spray. Usually you would be able to squeeze them to get to the leak.

 

Ok, so spray some silicon at your vacuum lines.

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not to come off as a dick, but you just had the car to a shop to find a vaccum leak that you coulden't find yourself? i think you need more experience before you go replacing an engine, let alone a swap. its alot of work no matter what.

 

i'd imagine that the downpipe would be different, powersteering lines, throtle cables, and lots of other misc things

 

so what exactly makes you want to pull it out in favor of something else?

 

 

Obviously you haven't seen a 96' DOHC. The vacuum lines are plastic, so you can't tell where the leak is without silicon spray. Usually you would be able to squeeze them to get to the leak.

 

Obviously you take me for an idiot, its not too terribably difficult to trace a vaccum leak. i can gaurentee that i've worked on more LQ1s of any year then you ever will.

 

and once again you have failed to answer my question...

 

oh wait is this gona go the way of the "i'm getting NOS" thread? :rolleyes:

OMG everything you said was true! :eek:

 

BTW you have the link to the NOS thread? I missed that one. :cry:

 

 

EDIT Found it and OMG LOLOLOLOLOLOL please go buy a beater or somthing forigan

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