Baddflash Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 Finally after much work it's running, I now probably have the only '90 Lumina Sedan with a 3.4/5-spd. Now to a couple issues I need to address. As soon as the key is on the fans turn on like it's not getting a signal from the temp sensor, though both seem hooked up correctly. (I'm pretty sure it didn't do that before I pulled it from the GTP) Also I have no redline or tach on my cutlass UB3, could this be something to do with the memcal I'm using? It's from a '91 Z34, I also have a '92 Z chip; think it'll make a difference? I was using a '90 GP chip when I had the 3.1 and the guages worked fine. Any help is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 Glad to hear it is in, with that engine mount and all I presume? does your check guages light work? it would light if the sensor was disconnected, however it wouldn't if the sensor was just giving a false hot reading. if you have a spare temp sensor, plug it into the connector and see if the fans do the same again. as for the tach...did the 3.1 memcal give you a redline? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 damn thats sweet!!!! is your car painted yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patgizz Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 oh no look what i started the 90 GP i swapped had zero issues with the gauges. nor did the 94 lumina. both were former 3.1 cars. not familiar with the cutlass cluster though. its possible the tach wire from your donor harness is on a different pin of the C100. i don't think the chip will make a difference, i think you need to get the C100 pinout for your car and for the 91-93 cars and see if the wires are all in the same place. when i get home i maybe could give you the location of the tach wire on your new harness. you would think it would be the same, but GM has done stranger things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 actually have you even started it yet, and did the tach work otherwise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 Hot piss!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddflash Posted July 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 Yes I managed to get the proper mounts. Yes there was tach and redline with the GP chip/3.1L. Tach wire is not used with digital cluster, info comes from ALDL. When I ran the car there was no redline and no tach. I don't believe the check engine light was on. Paint is getting done as soon as I get this buttoned up. I'm thinking the Z34 memcal doesn't have the same program as a GP or Cutty does as none of that stuff was an option on a Lumina. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 soooo you need a memcal from a CS or GP, you think? nevermind i forgot the memcals are different between manual and auto. I know the tach comes from the ALDL orange wire, is that hooked up but not giving info right now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bake82 Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 I have a memcal from a 92 3.4 5 spd cutlass. PM if you want it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 Your car will be badass once painted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 SWEET! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddflash Posted July 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 Actually now that I think of it there are a bunch of people running that dash with a stock lumina chip, I'm gonna try swapping to the '92 Z34 memcal and see if that makes a difference. The only CS chip I have is for a '94 3.4L/auto, not sure but I don't think that will work on a 91 motor? Paint is probably the only thing left after this gets done. Here's a peak at how she'll look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 I see GP side skirts... and cross laces!!! oh shit!!!! I just wet myself!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddflash Posted July 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 Tried the '92 Z memcal and it made no difference, though the engine fires up right now, took a couple cranks with the other chip. Can't think of what the problem might be now. There is no check engine light on, it's barely on for a second when the key is first turned on. Does not stay on till engine fires ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty Rockstar Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 IIRC, The UB3 still reads the tach pulses from the WHITE Tach wire coming into the harness.. The ornage simply gives the UB3 the Redline location.. These two work together to give you a working tach.. Make certain your tach wire is hooked up at you Ignition module and at your cluster itself.. Looks real good man.. I am envious and want to buy my turbo.. EDIT: Those look more like Bonneville XLaces to me, but I could be wrong.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddflash Posted July 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 Well mine ('90 cs digital UB3 )apparently did not require this because there is no tach input, I never had it hooked up before I pulled the 3.1 and it worked prefectly. They are GTP x-laces. Just got the axels in and as I thought no clutch, but it appears it's just air in the line, thank god I would kill myself if I had to pull this beast again. Will bleed it out and take it for a quick spin to check out the tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black90Euro Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 Nice .... that's a lot of hard work you've done and I'm sure it will be worth it .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted July 17, 2006 Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 damn thats gonna look bad ass! its the STE sideskirts right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJansen658 Posted July 17, 2006 Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 The 90' model w-bodies used the orange wire from the ALDL for tach and redline. The 90' Regal GS is an example, it only uses the orange wire. When I swapped the 90' Regal GS UB3 into my 93' Lumina I had to run the orange wire, and the white wire already in my harness for the Lumina's original tach was not used. I also tested to see if the white wire was capable of operating the Regal UB3's tach and it could not. Also the orange wire in the ALDL harness is very small, I used a blue scotch-lok and it pierced fine but couldn't make a connection. If you used a scotch-lok that may be your porblem. Unless you know the pin-outs are correct though there is no way to tell for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddflash Posted July 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 The dash was working perfectly fine before the motor swap so I know it's wired correctly, I also know that I'm not using the tach wire and there was no hookup on my UB3 cluster. That's the least of my worries right now however. I got the clutch working and also hooked up the exhaust to find that the tranny is screwed!!!! :evil: Why I wouldn't have stuck with my known good 5-speed I have no idea, I had to try my spare. Now I have to rip it all apart again to swap the tranny out and throw that POS in the scrap where it belongs. I don't want to even look at that thing right now. Whats the easiest way to swap a 5-speed on a 3.4 car??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calvin Posted July 17, 2006 Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 Do you have a 282 or 284? I just did this with a 3400 swap. What I did was Jack the front of the car up a good ways into the air (like 3-4 notches visible on the jackstand) Rigged up supports across the engine bay to hold the engine up by the points an engine hoist would Pop the lower BJs, unbolt the struts, and pull the axles out Then dropped the cradle out (make sure to take out the steering rack pinch bolt first!), and pulled the trans off the back of the engine. Pulling the cradle really isn't that bad, all you have to do is unbolt the eng/trans mounts, pull the rack connection to the steering column and the PS lines that run to the cooler loop. Then, all you have to do is get brutally strong (or get smart and use the two unused holes on the top of the trans and make a handle than you can lift from on top of the car) and have you and a buddy throw the new trans back up, and then use a pair of floor jacks and push the cradle back up. Realign the steering u-joint and realign engine mounts, tighten everything up, and voila! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted July 17, 2006 Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 damn. that sucks. what do you have to work with? a concrete pad in a shop and an engine lift? myself, I would take the entire cradle, with engine attached, and lower it out of the car. car up on jackstands, and use the engine lift to raise the engine slightly off the frame, and yank the tranny loose sideways. without a lift, I've used rachet straps strung across the frame and a block of wood under the engine to raise it slightly to allow the tranny to clear the frame. with or without the stand, I would leave the engine mount attached, and disconnect only the tranny mount. You'd have to pop the balljoints as well either way. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddflash Posted July 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 I can't believe I dodged another bullet. It was the inspection cover, damn thing was hitting the flywheel. :biggrin: I do need to bleed to clutch again however, so I haven't got to run it around yet. It is able to move under it's own power as it is though, which is better than a chain fall. Still some issues though. The fans run constant , it seems to idle around 2500-3k, and still no tach. I'm gonna switch back to the '91 chip and see what that does for the idling. Man is this thing loud idling that high, 2 of my neibours came bitching after running it for 5-10 minutes. I can't wait to get this thing out for a rip and see what she's made of. With the gearing I think it will be really close to my SHO, but we'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 17, 2006 Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 Check for any vacuum leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted July 17, 2006 Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 I had a mixture of a loose vacuum line and a bad IAC when my Cutlass just wouldn't stop revving up to 2-3k and sitting there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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