How do you start a W with no keys?

[supreme_style21]

How do you start a w-body with no keys? I have no clue how to even begin to hotwire a car. I bought a '95 Grand Prix from an impound lot for parts... but now I'm curious to see how well it runs.. I CAN get keys to it, but that'll mean I'll have to title the car and pay all the extra shit that goes along with that, and I'm not gonna do that just to satisfy my urge to see if it runs good. My buddy, somehow thinking he was going to be helpful, smashed the royal shit out of the ignition cylinder. GM has that damn sidebar ignition, so its not easily penetrated either.

As far as the passkey thing, the car did have a 'Hornet' alarm hooked up to it.. I think thats a DEI system. I have no idea if that bypasses the passkey or not, but it was there and seemed to be professionally wired. I ripped the shit out of it cause it was going off for a damn hour in the parking lot on the trailer. The battery is dead and I can find no logical way to open the hood at this point. What a buy.

[slick]

I think for the keys, there were an available 12 different types of resistors. Can someone verify this?

 

As for starting it, find a constant, strip it back, and touch the ignition line I would assume?

[White93z34]

that won't really work chris since the ICM, coils, fuel pump, and ECM all need power first.

 

best bet is to tear down the column.

[slick]

Oh damn. I thought that the ignition harness would start all that.

 

There has to be a few wires coming off of the ignition cylinder that you could throw 12v to and it would start all of those.

[White93z34]

could always swap in the entire column from your other 95'

[DiscoStudd]

Bypass the VATS by building this module:

http://fp.enter.net/~rockcrawl/passkey.html

 

There are a few ways you can go about starting the car after you get the VATS out of the way.

1.) New column, as was previously mentioned. Make sure you get a key, though!

2.) Tear the column apart to change out the lock cylinder.

3.) Remove the lock plate and "manually" run the ignition switch after removing it from the top of the column.

 

#3 is completely retarded, but it will get you on the road. #1 is probably the easiest, #2 the cheapest (and while you're in there you can replace the signal, wiper, and dimmer switches for good measure ...)

 

I think for the keys, there were an available 12 different types of resistors. Can someone verify this?

There are 15, actually. If you actually want to try all 15 VATS values, and don't care to assemble the above "module," then don't forget to visit http://vats.likeabigdog.com ...

[ShockTherapy]

seems like alot of work just to see if it'll turn over. is there any way you can find out which vats key it needs, like a PN on the VATS module?

 

 

or just go to a dealer with the vin and have them cut you one. they didnt ask me for any sort of paper work when i had ones for the GTP cut.

[DiscoStudd]

seems like alot of work just to see if it'll turn over. is there any way you can find out which vats key it needs, like a PN on the VATS module?

No, there isn't...

 

or just go to a dealer with the vin and have them cut you one. they didnt ask me for any sort of paper work when i had ones for the GTP cut.

That's a gamble. If the car was repo'd before, chances are it was re-keyed and the keys the dealer cuts for you off of the VIN won't match up. It is worth a look, but be prepared to be out $25 (more if you have them cut you a VATS ignition key...)

[supreme_style21]

At this point, I don't think a key is even going to go INTO the ignition cylinder. Its fubared. Can you get ignition cylinders from auto parts stores? Or is it a dealer only thing? Will the dealership ignition work with the passkey resistance?

[Crazy K]

15 different types for VATS.

 

I am an expert at starting cars with no keys.

I use method 4.

 

I have a spare ignition switch.

 

I disconnect the column wiring from the car harness and plug the switch in it's place. All I needed was a 7 mm to remove the I/P cover, and to disconnect the harness.

 

Tighten the bolt on the connector. Make sure you have sufficient live power to the car, and then move the ignition switches guts with a screw driver. You won't be able to go anywhere, but you can test junk yard engines this way

 

As for pass key.... I need a new set, but I had a matched key and anti-theft module from a car, I simple plugged my module in place of the cars original, and stick the loose key in the cylinder(I don't disconnect the twin wires ion the orange sleeve for the pass key, btw). AGAIN...The key doesn't have to match the tumblers and turn. It only has to be read electically through the resistor... this does assume the wires are not damaged.

 

Now then.... this all worked fine until I left the keys in a car and my brother won't give that car back now. Yeah I salvaged a keyless car and gave it to my brother... but why would I want a base model cutlass supreme S?

[89GP_SE]

http://columnsgalore.com/rebuilt.htm

 

they sell rebuilt columns with vats keys.

 

most gms are the same though. take a screw driver, break the plastic around the signal switch, break the signal switch, you will then see a little rectangle rod that comes through, take a screwdriver and moves the thing under the rod with all the little grooves and push it up.

 

What I used to do on my tempo was take a screwdriver, and hit the starting selinoid with it. But you have to have constant power as well so I dont know how you will go about doing that. I just rigged up my car so as soon as I turned on the switch under my dash, I could then hit it with the screw driver.

[SigEpCutlass]

Can't you go to a dealer with the vin and get a new key made?

[slick]

But his key cylinder is beyond repair. I think his full intent was to just see if the car does run or not. Nothing beyond that, but maybe a sawzaw.

[SigEpCutlass]

But his key cylinder is beyond repair. I think his full intent was to just see if the car does run or not. Nothing beyond that, but maybe a sawzaw.

 

Oh sorry I missed that important detail.

[supreme_style21]

But his key cylinder is beyond repair. I think his full intent was to just see if the car does run or not. Nothing beyond that, but maybe a sawzaw.

 

Oh sorry I missed that important detail.

 

That and it is an impound car with no title. I can get a title, but I'm not gonna spend the money and time to get the title if it won't run. Its kind of a catch-22... I have to have it running to have it inspected to be re-titled... I have to have a title to get it running..

[fastbird232]

Is it an SE?

[supreme_style21]

Yes it's an SE. Its a '95 coupe with B4U.. HUD.. black exterior and light gray interior. It has power drivers seat, factory cd player, those stupid lights in the c pillar, and rear seat passthrough.

The clearcoat is shot on any exterior plastic piece and it has a busted tierod. It has 143,000 miles and whether or not it runs is unknown. I bought it from a police impound lot. The car was unclaimed.

I've busted the lock pin in the column so I can turn the wheel and move it around the yard. Thats about all I know.

The prior owner left like ALL personal information in it as well. I have like 10 'real estate for sale' signs, his 2005 tax returns, a statement from the hospital saying he has genital herpes. He's had 4 DUI's, works for a bar and a real estate company. I have his social security number, his detailed medical history since 1967, numerous pictures, about 50 cd's, 2 leather briefcases plump full of personal real estate client information, 3 credit cards he's left in the car, roller blades, bowling balls, golf balls, and his nice IBM ThinkPad.

[cutlsp]

Yes it's an SE. Its a '95 coupe with B4U.. HUD.. black exterior and light gray interior. It has power drivers seat, factory cd player, those stupid lights in the c pillar, and rear seat passthrough.

The clearcoat is shot on any exterior plastic piece and it has a busted tierod. It has 143,000 miles and whether or not it runs is unknown. I bought it from a police impound lot. The car was unclaimed.

I've busted the lock pin in the column so I can turn the wheel and move it around the yard. Thats about all I know.

The prior owner left like ALL personal information in it as well. I have like 10 'real estate for sale' signs, his 2005 tax returns, a statement from the hospital saying he has genital herpes. He's had 4 DUI's, works for a bar and a real estate company. I have his social security number, his detailed medical history since 1967, numerous pictures, about 50 cd's, 2 leather briefcases plump full of personal real estate client information, 3 credit cards he's left in the car, roller blades, bowling balls, golf balls, and his nice IBM ThinkPad.

holy hell you could ruin his life that or he died already you should check that out maybe thats why it was never claimed..... (how much for the think pad?)

[Crazy K]

where is this car located? ie where are you located?

 

 

[supreme_style21]

I'm in Thief River Falls, MN.

[Crazy K]

well... thats too far for me to stop by and fix it

 

what I would do is what i mentioned already... go to a yard, find a gen 1 W body with passkey. They all have the round saginaw column. FInd one with a key, and make sure the key fits and turns the lock.

94-97 cs,94-96 gp, regal, and 95+ lumina and M carlo.

 

bust the *^%% column, remove the key cylinder, and be careful not to break the two wires that are in an orange sleeve. there is a connector at the base of the column. disconnect it there and pull it out.

 

 

now the fun part. Find the antitheft module.

its about a 1" by 3" by 5" black box with a puke-blue-green connector on the end

 

if the car has a passenger airbag, it is behind the airbag. rip out the glove box, and it will be behind and above, screwed onto a metal plate. the screws are 7mm. bend that plate down, remove the screws and disconnect. the bow matches the resistor in the key.

 

if no airbag, it is located by the base of the column and to it's left(94 CS and no other car IIRC) the connector faces down and it is hiding behind a metal plate/box.

 

OR... hire a locksmith and cross your fingers.

[compu_85]

I bet the guy would give ya a key to get some of his crap back.

 

-J

[slick]

I guarantee there is a way to *cough* hotwire *cough* that car.

[Nick1234]

take off the panel under the dash. You need to be able to get to the top/passenger side of the column. From there try grabbing a bracket which would feel and look like a backwards L. Push it towards the front of the car. It is actually on the passenger side of the steering column. See if you can do that. That is how i start the turbo Lumina. The only thing i don't know is if you have to disconnect anything from it so it isn't being stopped by the lock cylinder.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Nick

 

[supreme_style21]

Oh so much work! Thanks for the how-to's... I'll try 'em out when I've got a boring weekend. I guess it doesn't much matter if it runs, I'm tearing it apart either way... I'm just curious. Then if it runs good, I'll feel bad about ripping it apart.

What exactly is the L thing you speak of?

I bet the guy would give ya a key to get some of his crap back.

 

-J

 

bwahahaha I bet