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Another 3100 LIM Gasket and Parts Question


95oldsVan

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Im gonna have to do my LIM gasket on my 97 grand prix with the 3100 soon.

However,after checking around at the local parts stores,autozone and advance sell the fel pro kits.

 

That being said,theres 2 versions of thier kits..the cheaper one is 50 bucks but their more expensive kit is 85 bucks.The 85 dollar kit is supposed to be designed to prevent the leaks the older gasket styles were known for.

 

Should I get the 85 dollar kit and is it the ala GM style revision cure or can I do just fine with the 50 dollar kit?

 

Heres a link from autozone that advance also has for the same price.This is for the 85 dollar kit.

 

 

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=C001&UserAction=performMoreDetail&Parameters=TRUE%7C%7EIntake+Manifold+Gasket%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EFELPRO%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7E723219%7C%7E486%7C%7EMS98004T%7C%7EPERMADRYPLUS+PREMIUM+PROBLEM-SOLVING++++++++++++++++++%0Agaskets+designed+to+address+sealing+problems++++++++++%0AFeatures+advanced+technology++++++++++++++++++++++++++%0Aimpervious+to+coolant+%2F+oils.+++++++++++++++++++++++++%0ASet+includes+permadry+valve+cover+gasket%28s%29+++++++++++%0ASupplied+with+one+valve+cover+gasket++++++++++++++++++%0Adue+to+an+OE+service+procedure+stipulating+removal++++%0Aof+one+valve+cover+to+replace+both+intake+gaskets.%7C%7E%2484.99%7C%7EPONTIAC%7C%7EGRAND+PRIX%7C%7E1997%7C%7ENONE%7C%7E0.531%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EW

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Set includes permadry valve cover gasket(s) Supplied with one valve cover gasket due to an OE service procedure stipulating removal of one valve cover to replace both intake gaskets.

what??? that makes no sense!

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Set includes permadry valve cover gasket(s) Supplied with one valve cover gasket due to an OE service procedure stipulating removal of one valve cover to replace both intake gaskets.

what??? that makes no sense!

 

Thats what I thought...I guess with these new gasket kits,its supposed to fit around you cutting the old one off and snaking the new under the pushrods one one side?

 

I was confused about that too..they seem to think theres a GM procedure where you can install the new gaskets but not take one of the valve cover off??

If there is I never heard of it..didnt think you could swap gaskets out with this new stuff without taking both covers off,removing pushrods and getting this behind there?

 

:willynilly:

 

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yes, you can do the LIM job without removing the rear valve cover. You just need to unbolt the upper valve cover bolts and, after everything is ready, pull the LIM up and out. I've never done it this way because for one thing, the original valve cover gaskets almost always leak, and if I'm stripping the engine down anyway, I may as well change the rear one. But for a flat rate mechanic who doesn't really give a shit, it's a good shortcut.

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Thanks guys..yeah I seen that other thread about it,but didnt see if anyone could verify one kit is Better than the other per the price,so I made this one.

I also dont want to buy the 85 dollar kit if the 50 dollar kit will be just fine for years.Yet if theres any evidence of the more expensive kit being worth the money and all,I may consider it.Not a cheapo here,just going through some real tight times right now.On a very limited budget these days....

:lol:

 

Also I agree about the other valve cover gasket..id change it anyways instead of going around it to save time like the procedure says to.

 

Thanks again!

 

 

 

 

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I used the $85 kit (didn't pay that much, but its the felpro permadrys), and it seemed to be way better than the original stuff, looked a lot beefier...Came with both valve cover gaskets, water pipe o-ring, egr gasket, and the thermostat seal. It definately was a high quality product...I wouldn't cheap out because this is a HELL of a lot of work

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I used the $85 kit (didn't pay that much, but its the felpro permadrys), and it seemed to be way better than the original stuff, looked a lot beefier...Came with both valve cover gaskets, water pipe o-ring, egr gasket, and the thermostat seal. It definately was a high quality product...I wouldn't cheap out because this is a HELL of a lot of work

 

Cool,man thanks for the feedback...for me this is gonna be a fairly easy job...Got the garage,power tools and the time...already torn down older 3.1's before,3800 set ups, and GM 350 TPI engines.Having that experience really helps...alot of times,its the same shat,just different engines sizes and parts locations.So its helped me do all my jobs up til now with fairly any trouble.

 

Im gonna take my time though and do a thorough cleaning,wirewheel the bolt threads,etc.Having power tools really helps speeds up the cleaning and the scraping job for the heads and engine valley.

 

I think maybe youre right about using better quality stuff and since seeing those pics again I think you posted on another thread,it does look very well made.

 

Ill keep ya all posted on the progress.Now just need to get a few more bucks put aside for the job!

:smile:

 

 

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well the difference between the 3100 and the 3.1 or 2.8 MPFI is that you have to unbolt the coil packs since they are on the rear valve cover. You also have to take the alternator all the way out and the Power Steering Pump out of the way. the left dogbone has to come out to get the coolant pipe out of the way.

 

Also, make sure you change the oil pump drive seal

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well the difference between the 3100 and the 3.1 or 2.8 MPFI is that you have to unbolt the coil packs since they are on the rear valve cover. You also have to take the alternator all the way out and the Power Steering Pump out of the way. the left dogbone has to come out to get the coolant pipe out of the way.

 

Also, make sure you change the oil pump drive seal

 

Cool..thanks for the advice! You guys are way better than a shop manual for some of these jobs!The P/S pump and pulley is usually the pita piece for me on some of them cars,depending on engine size and location.

 

Also,you said oil pump drive seal...is that where a distributor would go if it had one?Where the metal cap plug is on top of the block near the valley?or is this another seal? I cant recall the names of some of the stuff.

 

Thanks!

:)

 

 

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Also,you said oil pump drive seal...is that where a distributor would go if it had one?Where the metal cap plug is on top of the block near the valley?or is this another seal? I cant recall the names of some of the stuff.

 

Thanks!

:)

 

 

 

correct

 

The PS pump just needs to be moved to the side for the intake to come out.. not a big deal.

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Also,you said oil pump drive seal...is that where a distributor would go if it had one?Where the metal cap plug is on top of the block near the valley?or is this another seal? I cant recall the names of some of the stuff.

 

Thanks!

:)

 

 

 

correct

 

The PS pump just needs to be moved to the side for the intake to come out.. not a big deal.

 

Thanks man,thats what I thought it was...also should be a piece of cake on this car.Theres enough room to get to almost everything without having to rock,drop or lift the engine for something.

:)

 

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yes, you also do not need to remove the pulley on the P/S pump...just take the upper plenum and fuel rail out first and it will fly right out of there.

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