need to hot wire the ol Fury, but..........

[Crimson Fury Z]

the damned ignition cylinder is fragged, and i don't have the "special tool" required to remove the tilt. its stuck in the off position . any insight is appreciated! going to call in now, and hopefully get this solved or able to get to a shop before my second jorb. crazy crazy crap! the only bright side is that i figured out why my bright-dim didn't work. the "button" inside the housing has a bar that goes to the switch further down the column. there is a fitting for the bar on the switch, the bar popped out of it! downside, headlights need readjusted .

[DiscoStudd]

Pull the wheel and remove the lock plate (that is, if you have a steering wheel puller and a lock plate compressor) so you can essentially leave the lock cylinder "locked" and still be able to steer the car. Remove the ignition switch (not the lock cylinder) from the column and use a small screwdriver to slide the switch into the different "positions" (off, on, start) so you can start the engine...

[Crimson Fury Z]

sounds saucy! the wheel right now isn't locked. ignition switch; got a location pic?

[DiscoStudd]

Should be on the top side of the column. You'll actually have to lower the column a bit to get at the mounting bolts.

 

 

The part in the upper left side of the pic...

[White93z34]

kevin, the early columns don't have a lock plate.

 

just pull the wheel, pull the signal switch, and plastic housing from around the column colar, and its just a torx bit that holds the ign. cyl in the column, mine was DAMN tight but after that you can start the car with a damn screwdrive if you want, i'm sure i left out some detals but its been a long time. then just rape a junkyard car with abad column for a new lock cyl.

 

i've done several first gen columns with no special tools aside of a wheel puller

[Crimson Fury Z]

theres no lock plate, fo sure! i got the switch loose and am able to start it, but the wheel is locked. found that out the hard way when i went to turn out of the drive(back in the parking spot now). going to look for the torque bit that holds the cylinder in. if i can't see it, this means trouble, the only other way that i've seen is to disassemble the tilt and get that steel housing out, but i don;t know at the moment. brb!

[Crimson Fury Z]

well, i'm f'ed in the a. the wheel locked on me, so it can start, but i'm not going anywhere.

[White93z34]

tilt the column all the way up, and look down and to the right you'll see a little plastic thing, gently pry that out witha screwdriver, and then it reveals the torx bit for the lock cyl, i've pulled a few out now with no special tools.

[Crazy K]

no no no.....

 

on the square tilt wheel column... you need to remove.(in order)

 

the steering wheel.

 

then the turn signal lever, first disconnecting the 4 wire connector for the cruise control switch, if equipped.

 

remove the bolt of the left side of the switch, that holds the pot-metal thingy, that the turn signal lever connects to directly.

 

then you remove the upper cover of the column, which requires you to remove the bolts that hold the turn signal switch to the column. BTW, please observe where you removed each screw from.

 

gently pull up on the switch so that it slides up and overe the steering shaft, and allow it to hang out of the way.

 

YOu will notice a metal cap with a square hole on the lower right of the inside flat are within the column. YOu must remove that... I remove it with a larger screw driver, You must push it in while turning it counter-clockwise. This is the spring that tensions the column. remove the metal cap and the spring behind it, and you might also have a rubber 'seat' that sits on the far end of the spring, watch out this spring is greasy.

 

if you look though the hole you just generated, you will obverse a plastic thingy with two wires going to it, one green, and one brown IIRC. THis is the key reminder chime switch. You need some sort of trim tool shaped like a long rod with a 90 degree bend at the end to remove the switch. I first you the tool to generate slack on the wires, and then to pull the switch out.

 

once the switch is off to the side, you need a long shafted screw driver typetorx bit size 15 IIRC. This is to remove the small screw that holds the key cylinder in place. remove the screw and the bad cylinder pops right out with a quick yank.

 

obviously... installation is the reverse of removal.

 

also you might take the chance to clean and lub your turn signal switch contacts and stuff.

[Crimson Fury Z]

after a scare +1, i won fellas, i won. yes i didn't need the pivot pin remover! the brass cylinder that houses the spring and spring guide was all i needed to get to the torque screw. the scare was from the ignition lock "arm," i popped it out and it took a few minutes to realize the lever on the inside was all i needed to push down, then slide the teeth back in. the worst part was those 2 tiny screws that the tranny thing needs...... .......still got use of the brights again, but my signal flasher is dead..........oh well, get it later! after the reassembly, i did a vicotry jig and slammed the old ign. lock to the dirt and proceeded to stomp on it. once i got inside, encore, i slammed it in the trash!

 

*note: the loss of the brights(the black piece that pushes the bar to the switch) might've contributed to me having to hold the lever up or down to display my turn signals. the bar was loose w/o the pressure from the black piece. a new flasher will comfirm whether or not my theory is right.

[DiscoStudd]

Man I really gotta tear into a 88-93 column before I go making assumptions .

 

Oh well, glad you got 'er figured out!

[Crazy K]

by the way, the square columns to have a lock, but not a tooth lock like the saginaw columns. the square columns can be turned to either lock, but can not be turned more than 1/2 turn towards straight with the key removed. go figure