94CutlassSLCoupe Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 Well, i steam cleaned the engine bay on the cutlass...looked at it after it had been driven for a while and there was some "bubbling" out of the lim gasket on the driver's side down by the coolant temp sensor. it also appears wet above the oil pump drive.. now, what would be the best gasket set to buy and what else do i need to do? my car has a whopping 50k on the clock I already have a set of aluminum valve covers...they just need a little cleaning (will probably paint them and the intakes with aluminum spray paint in reality, they are kinda grungy on the outside) I rely on this car too much to have it break on me...I might be seeing things, but I always look closely. The intake gaskets on my sister's 94 went at about 70k back about 3 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95oldsVan Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 I would get the fel pro complete intake manifold and up gasket set.It even comes with new injector O rings youll want to replace...just the bottom Orings that is. Coat the O rings with motor oil or WD40 before putting it back on and into the manifold. Also,go buy the permatex Right stuff sealer in the can.Its way better than the rtv that comes with the gasket kits.It will never leak if you use this stuff where rtv is called for. Also,if you want to spend the money,just take off your intake manifold and upper if you desire and have an engine or machine shop Hot tank them.Every trace of carbon,grease dirt and grime will be gone/washed away.It Will look brand new inside and out when you get it back...isnt usually more than 20-30 bucks depending on your shop area and prices.30 dollars of brake kleen cans and elbow work never get it this clean. I do this with any car I work on...beats spray paint and spray paint will eventually flake off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 yeah what he said, get the NEW Fel-pro's. I got them at http://www.rockauto.com part # MS98003T for $66 shipped, use discrount code 3B5CEFC2693A . Even if you find them locally, it will be much more expensive. Don't give GM any more money for this. Oh I also got them in the mail in 2 business days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted July 3, 2006 Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 Doesn't suprise me because they are the original "faulty" ones. I'd take Brian's advice and go with the Fel-pros, as they reportedly have a better design than GM's revised gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94CutlassSLCoupe Posted July 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 Ordered the Fel-Pro Permadry's from RockAuto Last night... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted July 3, 2006 Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 Hmm. If I ever have to do this again, I'll consider Fel-Pro. I just got the 3400 gasket set from a dealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94CutlassSLCoupe Posted July 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2006 Finished the job...I'll get some pics tomorrow... The car runs nice, the gasket set worked VERY well, got my aluminum valve covers on, new thermostat and oil pump drive seal. My old thermostat must have been defective, because the car used to run at 203 degrees + all the time and now it runs about 196-198 Took me about 10 hrs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted July 8, 2006 Report Share Posted July 8, 2006 sounds good! did you use 'right stuff? how about the gaskets, did they look up to quality? what type of constuction were they? metal or plastic reinforced around the coolant intake gasket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94CutlassSLCoupe Posted July 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2006 I used what came in the kit for the end seals. The gaskets are steel reinforced...here's a pic of the set: Money shot of them on the engine didn't take any other pics yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted July 8, 2006 Report Share Posted July 8, 2006 That is CLEAN inside. Nice job taking care of her! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted July 10, 2006 Report Share Posted July 10, 2006 Damn, thats clean! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted July 10, 2006 Report Share Posted July 10, 2006 That is CLEAN inside. Nice job taking care of her! What kinda oil do you use? Synthetic (if so, it sure does seem to work!) Looks like you're LIM didn't go as bad as mine did... my oil was pretty gross. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94CutlassSLCoupe Posted July 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2006 Pennzoil 5w30..the regular stuff....lots of time on the freeway and religious oil changes... I was sold on the stuff when my Duster's original engine ran for like 3-4 weeks to get me to school with under 10psi of oil pressure and still never siezed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted July 10, 2006 Report Share Posted July 10, 2006 As much as people claim that pennzoil and quaker state are shit, I did 3k mile oil changes on my old '90 Cutlass, and when I took it apart at 170k it looked as clean as yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted July 10, 2006 Report Share Posted July 10, 2006 I used Pennzoil SAE 5W-30 in my cutlass before switching to Amsoil. I never had a problem with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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