Blazer_Zr2 Posted June 25, 2006 Report Posted June 25, 2006 Well, a couple weeks ago, my car started running really rough, to the point where it'll stall if i dont keep a constant foot on the gas (lightly of course). I'm sure this has been covered before, but would anybody have a clue what is wrong. I've checked the coil packs/changed them. I currently have a new set of plugs I am about to install, possibly this will fix the problem? Also, I heard from someone that possibly the fuel injectors are gone? Quote
waynebenji Posted July 1, 2006 Report Posted July 1, 2006 I had a similar problem a couple of weeks ago, engine started loping when getting warm and eventually stalled. Changed the fuel filter and had the fuel system/injectors cleaned, that was pretty much it. I didn't touch the ICM at all. Changing the spark plugs might also help... Quote
Blazer_Zr2 Posted July 1, 2006 Author Report Posted July 1, 2006 How would i go about getting the injectors cleaned? I added some of that fuel injector cleaner stuff to the tank, but it did nothing. Quote
Supreme Cutlass Posted July 1, 2006 Report Posted July 1, 2006 How would i go about getting the injectors cleaned? I added some of that fuel injector cleaner stuff to the tank, but it did nothing. Is the problem all around? or just at idle? Quote
Blazer_Zr2 Posted July 1, 2006 Author Report Posted July 1, 2006 pretty much just at idle, when its over 1000 rpm, its fine. but to keep it over 1 is the problem, i have to always keep my foot on the gas or itll idle really rough and eventually stall Quote
Crimson Fury Z Posted July 1, 2006 Report Posted July 1, 2006 mine is too, doing this. only when its get 1/2 way on the temp guage(set at 180, its a radiator probalo) and only at idle or mod to hard accel. if i hit the gas it'll sputter(i.e, when the coils are going out, but mine aren't) then it'll shoot some smoke out the rear and i'm off.(great for those convertible peeps behind you....... ) Quote
Supreme Cutlass Posted July 1, 2006 Report Posted July 1, 2006 pretty much just at idle, when its over 1000 rpm, its fine. but to keep it over 1 is the problem, i have to always keep my foot on the gas or itll idle really rough and eventually stall you might want to check both your IAC and TPS. I think Autozone can check those for you. Quote
Blazer_Zr2 Posted July 1, 2006 Author Report Posted July 1, 2006 Don't have an autozone up here. Quote
Blazer_Zr2 Posted July 2, 2006 Author Report Posted July 2, 2006 tried changing the IAC motor (spring or whatever it is), and it did nothing. Quote
Supreme Cutlass Posted July 3, 2006 Report Posted July 3, 2006 tried changing the IAC motor (spring or whatever it is), and it did nothing. Tps then Quote
SigEpCutlass Posted July 3, 2006 Report Posted July 3, 2006 Have you changed the plug wires when you did the coils? What about your fuel filter/fuel pump? A nearly clogged fuel filter could cause the car to want to stall too. Quote
Blazer_Zr2 Posted July 3, 2006 Author Report Posted July 3, 2006 New fuel filter, and fuel pump (as the old one died). Changed the coil packs, and it did nothing. Tried a different IAC, did nothing New plugs, and did nothing. Also tried the MAF sensor, and that did nothing aswell. Changed the PCV valve (as it messed up my old car once). that did nothing though. So, i guess I'll have to try the TPS, and see if that fixes the problem. Quote
SigEpCutlass Posted July 3, 2006 Report Posted July 3, 2006 What about SPARK PLUG WIRES? They are sorta important!!! Quote
Blazer_Zr2 Posted July 4, 2006 Author Report Posted July 4, 2006 Well, what would low compression mean on the first cylinder?? Quote
Regal_GS_1989 Posted July 4, 2006 Report Posted July 4, 2006 Check the coolant for any air bubbles when running. If there is, than it could be a bad Head Gasket or a cracked head. Worn rings will also cause low compresion. Have you noticed the car running warmer than normal, any smoke from the exaust, anything unusual like that?? Quote
RJansen658 Posted July 4, 2006 Report Posted July 4, 2006 Awww that sucks... head gasket or head, possibly a valvetrain problem, worst case scenario its the rings.... you can check the rings by adding a teaspoon of oil thru the spark plug hole and then compression check it again. If the compression raises up significantly then suspect the rings. Quote
Blazer_Zr2 Posted July 4, 2006 Author Report Posted July 4, 2006 Well, if i have to change the head gasket, its not that big a deal, as i can do it myself, just takes a bit of time. Quote
89GP_SE Posted July 5, 2006 Report Posted July 5, 2006 Check your gaskets, specially the intake gaskets, apparently they go on these cars like Hot Cakes at a trucker shop. Another thing you should check is oil pump, my car will act up on my like that sometimes and I will throw a can of BARDAHL 2 in the crank case and go for a nice half assed hard drive on the highway. Canadian Tire carries this so check it out. Your oil pump could be on its way out and possibly choking out the motor. Another thing you should do is go and disconnect your battery for 10 minutes, come back and connect it, they do the idle relearn process and see if that helps. (Resets computer) Use the search to find the guide cause I cant remember where it is. Good Luck Darren Quote
greekguy7 Posted July 5, 2006 Report Posted July 5, 2006 I would check your fuel injectors at this point. Dont throw more money into it, changing one part after another. Been there, done that. They should ohm out to 12.1 ohms each... anything under 12ohms is junk. I had a similar issue and found three that were below spec. Quote
Blazer_Zr2 Posted July 6, 2006 Author Report Posted July 6, 2006 I would check your fuel injectors at this point. Dont throw more money into it, changing one part after another. Been there, done that. They should ohm out to 12.1 ohms each... anything under 12ohms is junk. I had a similar issue and found three that were below spec. How do you check them? Are they tough to get at? I have a multimeter so testing is not a problem, just a matter of getting to them. Quote
mcbfarm Posted July 6, 2006 Report Posted July 6, 2006 If the "check engine light stays on, go get a diagnostic code reader (~$40), and see what the car computer is telling you. Otherwise there's a plethora of fuel and electrical possibilities here. I got an old Actron data scanner and GM cartridge super cheap on ebay, ant this helps this sort out diagnosis a lot. The official GM service manual diagnostic charts are quite useful here -- but you need either the GM service manual. Two volumes, most likely available on ebay as well. Otherwise consider a subscription to alldatadiy.com, which has most of the manuals online (but I like the paper manuals better). Don't just start replacing parts, except for the air filter, and routine maintainence like a recent oil change (last 3000 miles or so). Quote
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