LumiDriver Posted June 19, 2006 Report Posted June 19, 2006 I never did the oil change in the Lumina myself, where would the oil drain plug be? I can't really do a flush, but is there a way for me to clean out the system? Also, any specific things I need to know while changing my oil? I did the oil change in my van before easy as pie, didn't even need to jack it up..but I have no clue about a 3100, never did one before Quote
Supreme Cutlass Posted June 19, 2006 Report Posted June 19, 2006 The drain plug is the only bolt on the very bottom of the oil pan.... Quote
SigEpCutlass Posted June 19, 2006 Report Posted June 19, 2006 On a L82, the oil drain plug is in on the oil pan, which is in front of the tranny pan. The tranny pan will probably say 4T60-E on it. IIRC the plug is 15mm & make sure you don't cross thread the plug when you put it back in!!! It's on a 45* angle or so downwards. Unless you're a really scrawny bastard, I think you're gonna have to jack the car up or use Rhino ramps to have the room to maneuver under there. The best way to drain the system is to wait to put the plug back in until the oil has completely stopped dripping out. When I switched to synthetic, I actually let the car drain overnight to get absolutely everything out that I could. Any sluge or garbge that'll come out of the oil pan is usually at the very bottom. Nothing hard if you ask me. Quote
1990lumina Posted June 19, 2006 Report Posted June 19, 2006 When you tighten the plug though don't over tighten it so it's a PITA at your next oil change to loosen again.... My stupid RX-7's plug is ALWAYS seized into the pan, doesn't matter how little I tighten it lol Quote
SigEpCutlass Posted June 19, 2006 Report Posted June 19, 2006 When you tighten the plug though don't over tighten it so it's a PITA at your next oil change to loosen again.... My stupid RX-7's plug is ALWAYS seized into the pan, doesn't matter how little I tighten it lol Jeff you should put some sort of ant-sieze compound on the threads of the plug. That should help prevent or atleast make it easier for you. Try that out. Quote
1990lumina Posted June 19, 2006 Report Posted June 19, 2006 When you tighten the plug though don't over tighten it so it's a PITA at your next oil change to loosen again.... My stupid RX-7's plug is ALWAYS seized into the pan, doesn't matter how little I tighten it lol Jeff you should put some sort of ant-sieze compound on the threads of the plug. That should help prevent or atleast make it easier for you. Try that out. Good tip, thanks Mike! Quote
LumiDriver Posted June 19, 2006 Author Report Posted June 19, 2006 Thanks, I just got back from the parts store. Got me an AC Delco Filter, soem cheapo oil for now, and of course, some lucas engine Jizz.. Once I get some more cash, ill put better oil in the car. Next check, Im going to get some brake shoes, my drums turned (for 4.50 each!), new rotors for 18.50 each!, and some new brake shoes. This place has some great parts, and the people behind the counter knew their shit! Quote
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted June 19, 2006 Report Posted June 19, 2006 Don't bother putting Lucas in. Just a waste of money. 5w-30 is all you need. AC-Delco and NAPA (wix) filters are all I use. The price of cheap-dino oil seems to be going up for some reason (is that only me?) right now I have a "semi-synthetic" cause it was on sale LOL. Quote
Regal_GS_1989 Posted June 19, 2006 Report Posted June 19, 2006 I think its just you. I can get A 5 litre Jug of Castrol GTX here for like 13$ Quote
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted June 19, 2006 Report Posted June 19, 2006 I think its just you. I can get A 5 litre Jug of Castrol GTX here for like 13$ Well yeah same price here... but before I could get the cheap off-brand oil for like $6 at C-Tire. I never see cheap oil on sale like that anymore it's at least $10. The semi-syntetics are only a few bucks more than the name-brand dino-oil Quote
LumiDriver Posted June 19, 2006 Author Report Posted June 19, 2006 That lucas isn't a waste of money. When my car starting going nuts in the valvetrain, i put some of that stuff in and it worked like a charm. Cleaned up the engine, runs amazingly smooth, and I just got doen with the change, and now it runs very smooth, gonna clean up my room and then do some chores, and then Im gonna go take it for a drive to see how much better it is (I aws about 1k over on the oil change) Quote
89GP_SE Posted June 20, 2006 Report Posted June 20, 2006 ok you say that you have done the oilchange on your parents van... or something like that. Anyways, why are you asking us where the drain plug is, just take a look under there and figure it out, its probably what 90% of us had to do Quote
LumiDriver Posted June 20, 2006 Author Report Posted June 20, 2006 So I could know which side to jack the car up. I figured it was going to be a PITA because I havent worked with a 60*V6 before. Quote
97loudcut Posted June 20, 2006 Report Posted June 20, 2006 i dont understand how you could have changed oil before and then not ebing able to locate the drail plugs. but w/e yeh I use royal purple oil 5w30 full synthetic, k&n oil filter no i dont like to waste money i just want only the best for the car. Quote
1990lumina Posted June 20, 2006 Report Posted June 20, 2006 Do you support the vehicle with jack stands, or just the jack?? I'd be scared to climb under my car with it only supported by a jack.....but hell I've changed the oil on my rx-7 before without raising the front end...I barely got the catch pan underneath the front air dam (like a quarter of an inch more an it wouldn't have fit lol).....then a shoved my fat ass under the car as much as possible and was able to reach the drain plug... Quote
pitzel Posted June 20, 2006 Report Posted June 20, 2006 I hate oil changes. Haven't done mine for 27,000km now (almost 3 years), and probably won't be doing one for another couple years. A full synth oil change costs me less than $20 worth of oil, so the cost is negligible compared to the cost of fuel (can't even buy a tank for less than $60 these days). I use an old set of wooden ramps that I drive the car up on for greater ground clearance, although, on concrete, I technically don't need them. Another option is to siphon the oil out using some plastic tubing, and not disturb the oil pan drain bolt at all. Stick the tubing down the dipstick hole, give it a bit of a suck (dont get oil in your mouth!), and put the other end of the tubing into a container to catch the oil. Filters are rated for 15k miles on these cars. Probably quite conservative, unless you already have a lot of sludge. Quote
LumiDriver Posted June 20, 2006 Author Report Posted June 20, 2006 If I had the cash, I would have the same stuff in it lol. Don't worry about my stupidness. I have never jacked up a w-body before. So I didn't know a good way to do it. I had tim come over and show me where to put the jack Quote
97loudcut Posted June 20, 2006 Report Posted June 20, 2006 I hate oil changes. Haven't done mine for 27,000km now (almost 3 years), and probably won't be doing one for another couple years. A full synth oil change costs me less than $20 worth of oil, so the cost is negligible compared to the cost of fuel (can't even buy a tank for less than $60 these days). I use an old set of wooden ramps that I drive the car up on for greater ground clearance, although, on concrete, I technically don't need them. Another option is to siphon the oil out using some plastic tubing, and not disturb the oil pan drain bolt at all. Stick the tubing down the dipstick hole, give it a bit of a suck (dont get oil in your mouth!), and put the other end of the tubing into a container to catch the oil. Filters are rated for 15k miles on these cars. Probably quite conservative, unless you already have a lot of sludge. omg what the hell.. siphin oil out of the dipstick hole? jesus tap dancing christ. Quote
pitzel Posted June 20, 2006 Report Posted June 20, 2006 what the hell.. siphin oil out of the dipstick hole? Sure. Or a small pump, if you have one available. I have an old windshield wiper pump that I sometimes use for the purpose. Hook up a few feet of tubing, run for 20 minutes, and you have completely avoid the necessity of molesting the oilpan. Oil gets run through the filter before it gets recycled into the engine anyways, so if there are any metallic bits in the drainpan, they won't make it into any parts of importance. Quote
joey b Posted June 20, 2006 Report Posted June 20, 2006 I don't get it. I could change my oil in my sunday clothes. Quote
PCGUY112887 Posted June 20, 2006 Report Posted June 20, 2006 Wow I never knew some of you guys were like this with your oil lol. I just jack up the whole front of my car with a jack on the bottom engine frame, then toss under 2 jack stands near the outside corners of the frame and let the car rest with the tires an inch or so off the ground and do it. Quote
Supreme Cutlass Posted June 20, 2006 Report Posted June 20, 2006 I hate oil changes. Haven't done mine for 27,000km now (almost 3 years), and probably won't be doing one for another couple years. A full synth oil change costs me less than $20 worth of oil, so the cost is negligible compared to the cost of fuel (can't even buy a tank for less than $60 these days). I use an old set of wooden ramps that I drive the car up on for greater ground clearance, although, on concrete, I technically don't need them. Another option is to siphon the oil out using some plastic tubing, and not disturb the oil pan drain bolt at all. Stick the tubing down the dipstick hole, give it a bit of a suck (dont get oil in your mouth!), and put the other end of the tubing into a container to catch the oil. Filters are rated for 15k miles on these cars. Probably quite conservative, unless you already have a lot of sludge. omg what the hell.. siphin oil out of the dipstick hole? jesus tap dancing christ. As I said earlier, how is that EASY? Quote
SigEpCutlass Posted June 20, 2006 Report Posted June 20, 2006 Wow I never knew some of you guys were like this with your oil lol. I just jack up the whole front of my car with a jack on the bottom engine frame, then toss under 2 jack stands near the outside corners of the frame and let the car rest with the tires an inch or so off the ground and do it. That's exactly what the hell I do. I don't know why it's so difficult to understand. You're not changing a tire, so you should have the car jacked up from the center. Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted June 20, 2006 Report Posted June 20, 2006 Unless you're a really scrawny bastard, I think you're gonna have to jack the car up or use Rhino ramps to have the room to maneuver under there. Woohoo! I never jack up any of the Cutlasses when I do an oil change, and that includes the 89 lowered with ST springs. I must be a really scrawny bastard! I hate oil changes. Haven't done mine for 27,000km now (almost 3 years), and probably won't be doing one for another couple years. A full synth oil change costs me less than $20 worth of oil, so the cost is negligible compared to the cost of fuel (can't even buy a tank for less than $60 these days). I use an old set of wooden ramps that I drive the car up on for greater ground clearance, although, on concrete, I technically don't need them. Another option is to siphon the oil out using some plastic tubing, and not disturb the oil pan drain bolt at all. Stick the tubing down the dipstick hole, give it a bit of a suck (dont get oil in your mouth!), and put the other end of the tubing into a container to catch the oil. Filters are rated for 15k miles on these cars. Probably quite conservative, unless you already have a lot of sludge. W T F!!! 27,000km=16,777mi... Holy crap! Do you get UOA's to make sure that oil is still any good? I thought I was lazy, but you win the prize!!! Siphoning, with your mouth? I think it would be easier and faster to just unscrew the drainplug! Quote
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