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Replacing brake fluid.....what is the best way?


AWeb80

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When I put my xlaces on when they are done....I'm gonna bleed the brake fluid or just replace it w/ new stuff since the stuff that is in there is old factory stuff.....the brakes kinda get soft if i brake hard for extended amounts of time.....i've never had the brake problems that others have seemed to have w/ their w's.....so I think the brake fluid might just be worn out.

 

 

I'm just gonna pour new brake fluid in the reservoir and let it drain out the bleed screws....but, don't i start at a certain wheel first to make sure to get as much of the old stuff out as possible?

 

like....i've heard start at the farthest wheel from the reservoir and drain it first, then the second farthest and so forth.....is this right?

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I always start at a back wheel, then go to the forward wheel on that side, then the back wheel on the opposite side, and then the front wheel.

 

As for getting out all the old stuff, just bleed the brakes like 2 times(do all 4 brakes twice). That should be more than enough to get out all the old stuff. You might need a few bottles of brake fluid though, just a warning.

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I always start at a back wheel, then go to the forward wheel on that side, then the back wheel on the opposite side, and then the front wheel.

 

As for getting out all the old stuff, just bleed the brakes like 2 times(do all 4 brakes twice). That should be more than enough to get out all the old stuff. You might need a few bottles of brake fluid though, just a warning.

It's my understanding that you start farthest away from the M/C and get closer, so it should be RR,RL,FR,FL

 

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_howto_bleedbrakes.shtml

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I've use a Motive Power Bleeder... puts pressure on the res up front so all you have to do is open the bleeders in the back. Was really handy after I replaced my ABS pump.

 

-Jason

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When I change brake fluid, I use my Mityvac vacuum pump to suck all the fluid out of the reservoir first and pour new fluid in. Then start bleeding at the right rear wheel (like the article says in the link above) and bleed until fresh fluid comes out. Move on to the left rear, right front, left front. You will probably have to refill the reservoir several times – make sure NOT to let it run dry, or else you’ll have to start over.

 

When I do brakes, I install DOT 4 fluid. It is fine for daily driver use and had a much higher boiling point than DOT 3. Castrol GT LMA is readily available in my area and decent fluid for the price. It is perfectly fine for street or autocross use. I’ve also used ATE Super Blue in a car I would take to the track and had good results. Many people run Super Blue in their race cars. It has a higher boiling point than DOT 5.

 

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=82915492&contentId=6004007

 

http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml

 

 

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I always start at a back wheel, then go to the forward wheel on that side, then the back wheel on the opposite side, and then the front wheel.

 

As for getting out all the old stuff, just bleed the brakes like 2 times(do all 4 brakes twice). That should be more than enough to get out all the old stuff. You might need a few bottles of brake fluid though, just a warning.

It's my understanding that you start farthest away from the M/C and get closer, so it should be RR,RL,FR,FL

 

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_howto_bleedbrakes.shtml

 

That is the correct way, but I always forget when I'm out there in a greasy mess. The way I do it works, never had any problems with my brakes, but it is always good to follow the correct procedure.

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