SLAMDIT Posted June 12, 2006 Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 Hey guys, My low colant light came on last night while I was out in the Cut. As I was driving home I then noticed the smell of antifreeze. I got home and popped the hood and found on the lower passenger side of the block a wet spot. It appears to be leaking somewhere out of the bottom of the water pump. My question is this..... Is a water pump hard to change on a 3.1 cutty? The car only has 68000 miles on it and this is the first mechanical issue I have ever had in the 2 years I have owned it. I have never turned a wrench on this motor. It appears to be pretty easy but I know how looks can be deceiving. Thanx, Sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted June 12, 2006 Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 It's pretty much as easy as it looks. 1. Loosen pulley bolts - I leave the belt in to help loosen the bolts. 2. Remove belt using a ratchet in the idler. 3. Remove pulley. 4. Remove water pump bolts. 5. Install new pump. I don't know if RTV is required, but I usually use it and let it cure 24hrs. 6. Reassembly is reverse of disassembly. 7. Refill and bleed cooling system as necessary. Sorry, I don't have torque specs off the top of my head. One of the easier things to do on this engine though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakiln Posted June 12, 2006 Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 No, these aren't bad at all, I was done with mine in two hours (took that long because I was taking my time and doing other things while working on the car). It's pretty simple and you don't need too many tools. This is out of the GM service manual (my comments) 1. Unhook negative battery cable (per GM) 2. Drain your coolant 3. remove serpentine belt (3.8" rachet) 4. Remove the belt shield w/plastic belt routing diagram (8mm bolt) 5. Use a pry bar to hold the water pump pulley while you loosen the bolts in it (10 mm) and remove the pulley and save it for the new pump. 6. Remove the water pump bolts (I think 8mm as well) and CAREFULLY REMOVE THE WATER PUMP. The pump itself and the housing it bolts into are aluminum so do not damage the housing!!!! 7. Remove the old gasket material from the front engine cover housing. 8. Reinstall pump with new gasket (I personally put a very thin film of RTV sealant on both sides of the gasket just to make sure that I didn't knick the gasket sealing surface, and if I have to take it off again it's easier) PUMP BOLTS - Install in a star pattern (like the wheels on your car) to 10 in lbs. THAT IS RIGHT 10 INCH POUNDS (Carefully hand tighten) 9. Reinstall pump pulley, Tighten Bolts to 27 in lbs (Hand tighten) 10. Reinstall serpintine belt and close radiator drain valve. 11. Open Coolant system bleeder vavle (On top of water pump bypass tube system, it has a bronze color) and refill coolant 12. If you flushed the coolant system, GM says you need to add a cooling system sealant (I will get the part number and exact name if you want them, I didn't because I did not flush the system) 13. Close bleeder valve once the air is out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAMDIT Posted June 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 Hell yes, you guys kick ass! Not only did I get my question answered but I got a writeup and tourque speces. I was gonna go mess with buyin a haynes manual for the tourque specs and all but now I don't need to. Thanx again, Sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted June 12, 2006 Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 I also put a THIN layer of RTV on the gasket, "girly" hand tight. no leaking... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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