Intlcutlass Posted August 1, 2006 Report Posted August 1, 2006 YOU DO NOT NEED THE MARINE CLEAN. People have been using the POR-15 for years now without it and with no problems. The maring clean is meant to remove any grease or oil on the surface. You can scrub it down with any soap and water. You have to wait till it's completely dry though, before you apply the POR-15. POR-15 does not stop rust by chemical means... it stops it my mechanical means, wich means it forms a solid barrier over the rust, that won't chip or peal. Because it's a mechanical bond, you only need to make sure the surface is free of wax, grease, and oil. It will adhere just fine if you do that. Now... when you have an open can of the POR-15, I don't know about "Moisture" , but the directions do say if you get 1 bead of sweat in the can, it must be thrown out. I don't know if thats becuase of the water content, or the salt in the sweat. Quote
pwmin Posted August 2, 2006 Report Posted August 2, 2006 keep up the good work, man. hopefully this will inspire me to do my blazer some day soon. btw, orange is the worst color for a car. i think the black looks dark gray and i really like it. Quote
cutlass1991 Posted August 3, 2006 Author Report Posted August 3, 2006 i think the black looks dark gray and i really like it. I know what you mean and it came out that color because I really couldn't get it any blacker and retain the reflection in photoshop. But I like it too.. I bet I could get the paint to look that color if I mixed a lot of really fine metallic into it. I think I am gonna go with the same black that Intlcutlass is using, i can't wait to see how his is gonna look It looks like a mirror finish on that guys truck, and thats really what I'm after here. I think the orange would be cool, but it'd have to be on the right car and be driven by the right type of person, and neither of those is true here. Still can't decide if I'm gonna use any metal flake or not, or how much more difficult it is to spray. i've heard that you really can't sand the color coat with metal flake because it will mess up the pattern, so this would leave no margin for error. I have a feeling i'm gonna have to sand some runs in the paint, so maybe just straight black is the way I'll go. Hey also i got this other idea after everything is getting finished. I know everyone seems to like that night shades stuff for the tail lights. I'm looking into getting some dark(black maybe) kandy paint and spraying the taillights and plastic piece on the trunk, then spraying them with clear coat. kandy paint is translucent so it would work like the nightshades stuff, only i'd be able to get a real high gloss with the clear coat. the only question is whether or not the paint would be able to adhere well to the plastic. Quote
97loudcut Posted August 4, 2006 Report Posted August 4, 2006 they make like candy paint rattle can at Wal Marts whats your deal with candy paint lol Quote
cutlass1991 Posted August 4, 2006 Author Report Posted August 4, 2006 whats your deal with candy paint lol good question... I'm not sure. Quote
J Posted August 4, 2006 Report Posted August 4, 2006 metal flake in a darker color like gray and black amkes the paint look blochy, there is one running around here and when your far away it looks as if someone rattel cannned it. When you get close to the car it is metal flake, so if i were you i'd try to stay away from it, or use a large test panel first. If you do try it spray the car from a few inches farther back than you are used to and work quick witht he snap of the wrist so you can avoid runs. Best of luck Quote
Intlcutlass Posted August 4, 2006 Report Posted August 4, 2006 metal flake in a darker color like gray and black amkes the paint look blochy, there is one running around here and when your far away it looks as if someone rattel cannned it. When you get close to the car it is metal flake, so if i were you i'd try to stay away from it, or use a large test panel first. If you do try it spray the car from a few inches farther back than you are used to and work quick witht he snap of the wrist so you can avoid runs. Best of luck Candy is THE hardest paint job you will EVER do. You CANNOT have 1 run in any of the base coats...and there are I think 3 of them. Quote
bladekinslayer Posted August 6, 2006 Report Posted August 6, 2006 Well that's dam intresting pics...... Curious to see what else you do and how you do it. I do this shit for a living, so I won't say what's right or wrong. I'd be typing for 2 days. lol! The only thing I will say is if you plan to fiberglass, I hope you don't live in an area where they use salt on the roads in the winter. (That is if you get snow?). If so the glass won't last. Otherwise it should hold for a few years if done correctly. I personally belive if metal comes out, metal goes back. All right just one thing though. That nasty big hole you got in the inner structure at the rear should have a patch welded on it at least. That is a structrual area of the unibody. If it rusts out farther you could end up with big headaches latter on, or even worse if you get into an accident in that area could make more damage than if it was solid. just my 2cents. Keep the pics coming, and good luck. You got quite the project on your hands to finish by the end of August. Quote
cutlass1991 Posted August 6, 2006 Author Report Posted August 6, 2006 I am looking into replacing the rockers with steel now... finding a sheet metal supplier is really hard though. You'd think being in pittsburgh this would be easy.... Quote
bladekinslayer Posted August 6, 2006 Report Posted August 6, 2006 Could you not get an aftermarket rocker panels? Not sure if they are made for cutlass, worth looking into, would make the job way easier. If not, you make them then. By looking @ the pics I see you have most of the angle there of the orginal. You could try and weld to that. Then all you need is get a piece bent to match the underside. You'll have to find a place with a long break though or do to smaller pieces and weld them togther. Or if you got a long steel table(or similiar hard surface) lay the piece on it then clamp it down with a piece of wood or steel flat bar (would be best) on top then gently hammer the piece into the shape you need. Don't try to bend the length all at once. Work your way back and forth slowly bending the material. Normally I would use 20-22 gauge steel, but you could use an 18 gauge (Maybe 16, but that's borderline)and get away with it. The 18 gauge would be easier to work with such a long piece. I also like to use galvanized steel. Little better protection. Just get rid of the coating where you have to weld and make sure to USE a weld thru primer. Quote
88Regal Limited Posted November 24, 2006 Report Posted November 24, 2006 updates? and I believe independant hardware stores carry some sheet metal. Been a while since I checked though. Worst come to worst, go to the JY and pick up a w-body trunk. Flat and easy to cut for sheet metal. Quote
cutlass1991 Posted December 11, 2006 Author Report Posted December 11, 2006 Heres some updates for those that asked: car is sitting in the garage sill in pieces. I'm kinda pissed I didn't finish it this summer, but I came into a full time job making $12/h under the table so paying off credit cards became a bigger priority. I abandoned the project after the temp. got cold because most of the stuff (filler, primer, etc..) has to be used above 70 degrees F. I try to start the engine at least once a week, and last week i got the front end up on jack stands with the wheels off so I could put it into drive. I really hope sitting this long doesn't hurt the tranny...I know the rear calipers are seized already, big shock there I'm probably gonna start work on it again after school is over in April '07, and have it done to bring to the carlisle meet in June. right now im driving a 93 olds sillouhette minivan w/ almost 200K miles. I hope it gets me through winter. Quote
Psych0matt Posted December 11, 2006 Report Posted December 11, 2006 pics of current standings? good to hear itll get done eventually though Quote
cutlass1991 Posted December 11, 2006 Author Report Posted December 11, 2006 ph yea heres some pics: after two coats of por15 that cardboard box is the new rocker panels--- they are marked for 89-97 cut supreme sedan, but they sure don't look like they are a match. So i guess I'm gonna have to go through the hassel of exchanging them... girls dig vans that look like dust busters. Quote
Psych0matt Posted December 11, 2006 Report Posted December 11, 2006 I have to say that you have probably one of the nicest earlier sedans. I love how those ones look so much more like the coupes than the later ones Quote
cutlass1991 Posted December 11, 2006 Author Report Posted December 11, 2006 What year is that? Does it have 2 rocker switches below the stereo? If so, what is the left switch for? I know the right is for the interior lights..... It is a 1993. There are two switches... the one is to turn the interior lights off while the doors are opened (good for tailgates) and the other switch is a rear fan control. Quote
luminal67 Posted December 16, 2006 Report Posted December 16, 2006 that cardboard box is the new rocker panels--- where did you find rocker panels???? i have been looking forever for those and quarter panels. Quote
cutlass1991 Posted December 16, 2006 Author Report Posted December 16, 2006 that cardboard box is the new rocker panels--- where did you find rocker panels???? i have been looking forever for those and quarter panels. http://www.rustrepair.com Quote
luminal67 Posted December 16, 2006 Report Posted December 16, 2006 damnit! as usual, nothing for me. Quote
J Posted December 19, 2006 Report Posted December 19, 2006 yep i need rockers bad, and they don't have them for luminas?! Quote
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