Intlcutlass Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 I am going to rattlecan My whole car!!!! J/k I bought: Kirker epoxy/sealer Evercoat Rage Gold for the dents/bodywork Marhyde 2k Highbuild primer Dupont "Super Jet Black" # G9900s SPI Universal Clear coat # 4000-1 And to rub it and polish it I have 3m's "Perfect it II" Rubbing compound, and Polishing compound. To shoot all this paint - I have an Astro DX3 HVLP gravity feed with a 1.4 tip... But I want to find a 2.0 tip for the primers..... For now, I am going to leave the silver alone. I will take them off the car when painting, and just clean them for right now.... I will re-silver them later..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supreme Cutlass Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 If you don't mind me asking, how much did that cost you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted June 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 Rage gold was $45 The SPI Universal clear was $120 The High Build Primer was $90 The Sealer was $70 And the Super jet black Should be (I ordered it, I still have to pay for it and pick it up) around $120 The 3M stuff was about $120 for the pads and the compounds. Granted thats only about $565 worth of stuff.... But it's all good/great quality stuff, and it's the labor that costs you the most. All the prices I have listed are all including the activators/hardeners. They are ALL 2k products. That Dupont base coat I got, it what some have used to re-paint their 87 GNX's... It's that black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 What does "2k products" mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted June 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 What does "2k products" mean? 2 part product.... It has a hardener.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 Ah, I see. How did you know what brands of stuff to get? I wouldn't even know where to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted June 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 Ah, I see. How did you know what brands of stuff to get? I wouldn't even know where to start. http://www.autobody101.com/forums/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 Thanks for the link. If you have anything left over, I'll let you paint mine too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted June 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 Thanks for the link. If you have anything left over, I'll let you paint mine too. You still lookn at that Benz? Sidenote--- I found a machine shop to punch out the centerbores on those Alessio's ... $25.00 each wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 Evercoat Rage Gold for the dents/bodywork Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 You still lookn at that Benz? Sidenote--- I found a machine shop to punch out the centerbores on those Alessio's ... $25.00 each wheel. Kinda sorta. I do think I want to switch to a different genre of automobile, but at the same time I want to see all my W's fully restored and finished. I don't know why, I'd probably be better off just selling them for what I can get and never looking back. I'd like to have the 88 repainted and looking pretty, it just makes me sad to see it looking so beat. I think it would look really hot in black to go along with the dark gray cladding (the red+dark gray doesn't do anything for me). $25 each wheel is not too bad, best estimate I got was $30/each, and an additional $10/each to enlarge the taper. If you want to attempt to fit them without spacers, you'll also have to get the taper machined out to 80mm or something like that. I can't believe Matt got it done for $40!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 Thanks for the link. If you have anything left over, I'll let you paint mine too. You still lookn at that Benz? Sidenote--- I found a machine shop to punch out the centerbores on those Alessio's ... $25.00 each wheel. The Acura Legend guys have usually have to bore out the center of there wheels to get them to fit as well. Just thought it was kinda funny it was brought up on here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabz Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 Going with Black, NICE, your body work will have to be flawless, there is this stuff called putty coat that will fill in all your pin holes and help you get it perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted June 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 You still lookn at that Benz? Sidenote--- I found a machine shop to punch out the centerbores on those Alessio's ... $25.00 each wheel. Kinda sorta. I do think I want to switch to a different genre of automobile, but at the same time I want to see all my W's fully restored and finished. I don't know why, I'd probably be better off just selling them for what I can get and never looking back. I'd like to have the 88 repainted and looking pretty, it just makes me sad to see it looking so beat. I think it would look really hot in black to go along with the dark gray cladding (the red+dark gray doesn't do anything for me). $25 each wheel is not too bad, best estimate I got was $30/each, and an additional $10/each to enlarge the taper. If you want to attempt to fit them without spacers, you'll also have to get the taper machined out to 80mm or something like that. I can't believe Matt got it done for $40!!! Because mine has looked shitty for so long... I am really happy about this. My drivers door has been crushed, my Pass fender had been hit in a Church parking lot, My pass door had a dent/seem where my Fiero rolled along side of the Cutlass, and the Fiero's mirror left an indentation on the door, The stealership painted over my old pinstriped before applying the new ones, My old hood had rust damage in the seems, My old trunklid had rust in the seems....My new one has now luggage rack ... They are all GM parts EXCEPT the fenders....It's impossible to find official GM fenders that don't cost both my left and right testicle. But, I am still really pleased with them... the seems & lines are all in the right places, and the door and hood gaps are correct. Before I installed them , I coated the inner surfaces with cold galvonizeng compund (on the bare metal), then fiberglassed over that... It's maked the metal sound REALLY thick/strong, and I don't have to worry about rust... I am going to work out EVERY panel till it's perfect. I have been having problems getting my drivers door aligned, so I will pay someone to do that, and my only other problemed area is the turn signal lens on the driverside front. I can't seem to get the gap between the lens and the headlight tight.... BUT... I am close to doing all the work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted June 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 Going with Black, NICE, your body work will have to be flawless, there is this stuff called putty coat that will fill in all your pin holes and help you get it perfect. Is that a 2 part product? I was going to use evercoat "Iceing" Do NOT use the glazing putty in the tube that does not come with a hardener... I will look into it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93z34 Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 cant wait to see the finished product. I plan on doing some racing stripes myself, to kind of get a feel for paint work before I attempt to do my whole car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 Can't wait to see the results! Sounds like you know what you're doing. I use 3M Perfect-it III products (Extra Cut compound and Swirl Mark Remover) and they are great (never used the older ones, but I assume they are still very good). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted June 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 Can't wait to see the results! Sounds like you know what you're doing. I use 3M Perfect-it III products (Extra Cut compound and Swirl Mark Remover) and they are great (never used the older ones, but I assume they are still very good). I couldn't find any of the III.... But the II said it would remove swirls marks. If it leaves any swirls behind , I will buy some of that Imperial hand glaze.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 I the 3M swirl mark remover with the (black) 3M hook-it foam waffle pad. I don't have the part number for the pad... but it's the ONLY ones I'll ever use to finish a polishing job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted June 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 I the 3M swirl mark remover with the (black) 3M hook-it foam waffle pad. I don't have the part number for the pad... but it's the ONLY ones I'll ever use to finish a polishing job I have the pads...... They were $68 for 4 pads!!! They come in packs of 2, and the white waffle is for the rubbing, and the black pad is for polishing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabz Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 Going with Black, NICE, your body work will have to be flawless, there is this stuff called putty coat that will fill in all your pin holes and help you get it perfect. Is that a 2 part product? I was going to use evercoat "Iceing" Do NOT use the glazing putty in the tube that does not come with a hardener... I will look into it.... yes its a two part product, it does not come with hardener you can use any kind. Its a little harder to sand but it leaves it clean. Take a look at my sunroof install Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted June 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 That looks pretty good.... Is that the sealer coat??? You shot that in your garage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabz Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 That looks pretty good.... Is that the sealer coat??? You shot that in your garage? I still need to do some more body work, i sprayed one coat of primer so the metal would not be exposed (its a really rainy week) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 What exactly did you do to install the sunroof? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabz Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 What exactly did you do to install the sunroof? Step one, remove headliner and all trimming step 2, cut out and remove existing support braces, step 3, install sunroof mounting bracket. step 4, cut out a rough circle, step 5, use nibblers to cut out sunroof leaving at least an inch and a half on the sides and about half to 3/4" at the corners step 6, using dollys and rubber hammer to create the lines for the bends all the way aroung and then continue working the metal until its at 90 degrees, step 6, bend about 1/4 inch of metal back up, step 7 using a air punch, punch the 1/4 inch backup creating a lip, this lip will fold over the mounting bracket. step 8, apply sealer all way aroung the inside to prevent rusting. step 9, body work step 10 primer step 11 test fit sunroof step 13 body work step 14, primer, paint, and clear On each corner the metal will dip, meaning you will have to fill it in with bondo. Tools used, Air nibbler air punch die grinder rubber hammer flat head hammer dollys vice grips Over all the metal work wasnt too hard, i was expecting alot more complications, i finished it in 2 days, the third day i spend creating the foldover lips. At this point my hands were killing me!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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