radman3120 Posted June 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 If 500 lbs is "really damn stiff" then that's probably about right. I've never autocrossed my car, but I feel like it'd do pretty good, especially with the 18" wheels. Daily driving... well, my car is a daily driver and it's not been a problem for me. If you ever have any older passengers ride with you, they'll absolutely hate it. Ok, the STs don't sound too bad, now. Lets just hope that i can actually get them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radman3120 Posted June 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2006 ok, now i am waaayyyyyy confused................. i just got off the phone with Thy at Intrax. She knew right away what i was talking about when i said w-body group buy. She said she can get me the springs, that they are 1.8" drop, but that they are linear compression with 166 lb spring rate. First, when i said that the STs were 170 lb spring rate i was told that was low. Then i talked directly to ST and they told me the spring rate was 500 lbs. Now I am being told that the springs that everyone has said are progressive rate (and usually stiffer) are really linear and at 166 lb spring rate. Now i am totally confused and have no idea what to get. People with experience with both sets of springs......... 1) Do the Intrax look like they drop much lower than the STs? 2) Which spring is stiffer? Is there a significant difference in ride quality? Also, can anyone cite specific spring rates for what is used on certain stock and race applications so we can get an idea what we are looking at as far as stiffness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedGTP Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 +1 !! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 All i had to do was put pressure on the strut cap with one hand and then tighten the nut with my other hand. same here. anyways, i don't think the Intrax springs are progressive rate. they don't look at all like the progressive rate springs my brother put on his car. i guess if anyone knows the spring rate it would be Thy. fwiw, the Intrax springs seem wayyy stiffer than the Eibach lowering springs on my Cutlass. i don't know what spring rate those are either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedGTP Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 http://www.qsrproductions.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=179&osCsid=890908125208811f78f4f7856797a332 this coil will fit on my GTP 1994 ???? perfectly ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 http://www.qsrproductions.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=179&osCsid=890908125208811f78f4f7856797a332 this coil will fit on my GTP 1994 ???? perfectly ?? The fronts will work, but the rears will not. You will need to either get rear coilovers or get a custom rear monoleaf spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedGTP Posted June 7, 2006 Report Share Posted June 7, 2006 For rear I know ! lol Thank's for the front ... may-be I will take it .. with my 18inch .. nice view ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radman3120 Posted June 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 wow, i just got an email from jcwhitney that says my springs shipped yesterday................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 wow, i just got an email from jcwhitney that says my springs shipped yesterday................. nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedGTP Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 you will take the pic of your installation !! Made a HowTo may be ? lol I know one guys made a little on this forum.. very nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 All i had to do was put pressure on the strut cap with one hand and then tighten the nut with my other hand. same here. anyways, i don't think the Intrax springs are progressive rate. they don't look at all like the progressive rate springs my brother put on his car. i guess if anyone knows the spring rate it would be Thy. fwiw, the Intrax springs seem wayyy stiffer than the Eibach lowering springs on my Cutlass. i don't know what spring rate those are either. OK maybe I'm just a big pussy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted June 9, 2006 Report Share Posted June 9, 2006 IIRC you have to rotate the spring so that it's 'tilted' in a way that lets the strut shaft protrude as far up through the upper most coil as possible. now put the strut mount into the upper spring mount (you'll see a little indentation on it...it only goes in one way), then put the rubber upper spring isolator onto the bottom side of the spring mount (again..it only goes on one way). now when you have the upper spring mount, strut mount, and upper spring isolator all together, place it over the strut shaft onto the top of the spring so the spring end goes into place on the spring isolator. hold the strut shaft up with one hand and put the big nut on with your other hand. don't tighten the nut yet...tightening the nut would compress the spring making it much harder to posistion everything before it goes into the car. getting everything posistioned correctly is tricky. after the nut is on (finger tight) you can posistion the upper spring mount. i did this by grabbing the coil spring, pulling up on it to relieve pressure from the strut bearing plate and then rotating it. you want the 3 studs on the upper spring mount to go into the body of the car while hub flange of the strut/knuckle assembly faces outwards (duh). be careful while you do this so the lower rubber spring isolator doesn't get distorted or pushed out of place while you rotate the spring...you want the spring end to stay in the the correct place in the rubber isolator of course. the only other thing you have to posistion is the strut bearing plate. it needs to be posistioned so that it won't interfere with the wheel well. posistion it so that the two small holes in it are facing outwards, IOW right above the hub bearing flange. just pull up on the spring to take pressure off of the strut bearing plate, and then turn it into posistion while keeping the lower spring isolator posistion correctly on the spring. now put the whole assembly in the car. after it's in the car you can tighten the strut shaft nut to spec. that's it! haha. much easier to explain how to do this in person it's really not that hard once you figure out how it all goes together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted June 9, 2006 Report Share Posted June 9, 2006 IIRC you have to rotate the spring so that it's 'tilted' in a way that lets the strut shaft protrude as far up through the upper most coil as possible. now put the strut mount into the upper spring mount (you'll see a little indentation on it...it only goes in one way), then put the rubber upper spring isolator onto the bottom side of the spring mount (again..it only goes on one way). now when you have the upper spring mount, strut mount, and upper spring isolator all together, place it over the strut shaft onto the top of the spring so the spring end goes into place on the spring isolator. hold the strut shaft up with one hand and put the big nut on with your other hand. don't tighten the nut yet...tightening the nut would compress the spring making it much harder to posistion everything before it goes into the car. getting everything posistioned correctly is tricky. after the nut is on (finger tight) you can posistion the upper spring mount. i did this by grabbing the coil spring, pulling up on it to relieve pressure from the strut bearing plate and then rotating it. you want the 3 studs on the upper spring mount to go into the body of the car while hub flange of the strut/knuckle assembly faces outwards (duh). be careful while you do this so the lower rubber spring isolator doesn't get distorted or pushed out of place while you rotate the spring...you want the spring end to stay in the the correct place in the rubber isolator of course. the only other thing you have to posistion is the strut bearing plate. it needs to be posistioned so that it won't interfere with the wheel well. posistion it so that the two small holes in it are facing outwards, IOW right above the hub bearing flange. just pull up on the spring to take pressure off of the strut bearing plate, and then turn it into posistion while keeping the lower spring isolator posistion correctly on the spring. now put the whole assembly in the car. after it's in the car you can tighten the strut shaft nut to spec. that's it! haha. much easier to explain how to do this in person it's really not that hard once you figure out how it all goes together. Yes... thats right.... The whole thing can only go together 1 way. You just have to look for the clues. Strut bearing plate has the two holes in it that get positiones right over the hub (Turbosedan figured that one out. The upper mount has notches in it to position the bellow. Because of that, the upper insulator can only go on 1 way, which dictates the spring can only go on 1 way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabz Posted June 9, 2006 Report Share Posted June 9, 2006 All i had to do was put pressure on the strut cap with one hand and then tighten the nut with my other hand. same here. anyways, i don't think the Intrax springs are progressive rate. they don't look at all like the progressive rate springs my brother put on his car. i guess if anyone knows the spring rate it would be Thy. fwiw, the Intrax springs seem wayyy stiffer than the Eibach lowering springs on my Cutlass. i don't know what spring rate those are either. OK maybe I'm just a big pussy Your not a pussy, i needed to compress mine a bit too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted June 9, 2006 Report Share Posted June 9, 2006 All i had to do was put pressure on the strut cap with one hand and then tighten the nut with my other hand. same here. anyways, i don't think the Intrax springs are progressive rate. they don't look at all like the progressive rate springs my brother put on his car. i guess if anyone knows the spring rate it would be Thy. fwiw, the Intrax springs seem wayyy stiffer than the Eibach lowering springs on my Cutlass. i don't know what spring rate those are either. OK maybe I'm just a big pussy Your not a pussy, i needed to compress mine a bit too. Or you both are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted June 9, 2006 Report Share Posted June 9, 2006 All i had to do was put pressure on the strut cap with one hand and then tighten the nut with my other hand. same here. anyways, i don't think the Intrax springs are progressive rate. they don't look at all like the progressive rate springs my brother put on his car. i guess if anyone knows the spring rate it would be Thy. fwiw, the Intrax springs seem wayyy stiffer than the Eibach lowering springs on my Cutlass. i don't know what spring rate those are either. OK maybe I'm just a big pussy Your not a pussy, i needed to compress mine a bit too. Or you both are? LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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