Break hydraulic trouble, I think

[Zanix]

Not sure if that's even a real part. Anyway. I've got a '97 cutlass supreme 3.1, white with tan interior, great vehicle.

 

So when I start the car the mechanism where all the break lines end up, which is also attached to the break fluid holder, makes this "EEEeeerrrrrrrr" noise. The ABS light has been on for about a year now, I think I have a bad sensor. This noise started after me and my brother replaced the caliper and pads in the back on the drivers side. Weirdest part is that when we went to bleed the line to that wheel, no juice came out. I pumped the brakes, turned the car on, back off, nothing. I couldn't find a leak for the life of me either. We got the fluid to come out under the hood at the master cylinder (where the lines come together, I mean) but not back to that brake.

 

The car still stops fine though. That's the part I don't get though. It pulls to the right a little when I break, I assume because the rear pass. side is brakeing but not the drivers side.

 

So my question, is there something wrong with the brake line between that caliper and the cylinder? Or does it sound like something is wrong with the cylinder?

 

The rotor has a ring of rust on it, and the old pads had a matching rust area. I figured the caliper was bad. I guess the caliper hasn't been working for a while then.

 

TIA

[CowboyBilly9Mile]

I think you need to bleed the brakes (all four corners) and that this is the reason for the ABS light and the pulling to the right. The ABS light = fault found and ABS has been disabled. Rear brakes on a car do 20% of the braking and the fronts do 80%. On this note, this is why you are finding "the car still stops fine though"; it's probably because you haven't really had to nail the brakes.

 

So on to what to do to take care of it. Given it's been a year I would bleed the brake system in the usual and customary sequence (RR, LR, RF, LF). You didn't state if your replacement caliper was new or used, but at any rate you must establish fluid flow to each caliper in order to bleed the system correctly. Since you're unable to get fluid at the LR, loosen and even remove the bleed fitting on the caliper. If fluid flows (and it had better), inspect the fitting for pluging. Service as needed and bleed the system.

[Cueman]

Not "brake pump", but probably the master cylinder. I have been having the same problem in my 95 cutlass for over a year now...I have no fluid going to either caliper in the back! I essentially have no back brakes. I have done everything I can think of so far, execpt replacing the entire master cylinder and ABS assembly...too expensive..if anyone has any ideas please share!

 

Thanks!

Brian

[Zanix]

I think you need to bleed the brakes (all four corners) and that this is the reason for the ABS light and the pulling to the right. The ABS light = fault found and ABS has been disabled. Rear brakes on a car do 20% of the braking and the fronts do 80%. On this note, this is why you are finding "the car still stops fine though"; it's probably because you haven't really had to nail the brakes.

 

So on to what to do to take care of it. Given it's been a year I would bleed the brake system in the usual and customary sequence (RR, LR, RF, LF). You didn't state if your replacement caliper was new or used, but at any rate you must establish fluid flow to each caliper in order to bleed the system correctly. Since you're unable to get fluid at the LR, loosen and even remove the bleed fitting on the caliper. If fluid flows (and it had better), inspect the fitting for pluging. Service as needed and bleed the system.

 

Ok, so I had some time and got at the RR brake. There was no fluid going to that caliper either. I assumed it had been working, which was wrong. There was a bit of fluid that came out when I removed the bleeder fitting, but not as much as there should have been. I mean, it was slightly damp with break fluid. The E break spring/cable was sticking a little too. I hosed it all down with break part cleaner and got it back together.

 

I really don't get it.

 

So the LR and RR arn't getting ANY juice.

 

The breaks didn't get soft either when the fitting was REMOVED and pressure applied to the brake. No fluid flow either though.

 

I'm afraid I'm ruining something by letting this noise continue on like this. I guess I ought to take it to the shop. Damn.

 

thanks for the reply, btw.

[Cueman]

If you take it to a shop and they give you a soultion/diagnosis please let me know!

 

Thanks!

[Zanix]

If you take it to a shop and they give you a soultion/diagnosis please let me know!

 

Thanks!

 

Well I haven't taken it to the shop yet, but I did call a family friend/mechanic.

 

He had me bleed the brake lines at the master cylinder. On mine there's 4 that come off the top of the hydraulic unit. They're labled for what wheel they go to. So I did that for the RR and LR and they were bone dry. I took the fitting off totally and pumped the brake with no new result. So the mechanic told me the master cylinder was going bad.

 

I'm still waiting for him to call me back on a price for that part.

 

Hope that helps you.

[Zanix]

Alright then.

 

I had the mechanic work on it. He found two leaks in the lines that were apparently responsible for the lack of fluid to the rear brakes. He also took apart the relays on the top of the hydraulics and cleaned them.

 

That didn't stop the noise that it had been making, but it did improve the stopping performance. Well yeah, with two more brakes working...

 

He also said the noise was comming from the ABS unit, which was going to be really expensive to replace. We just pulled the ABS fuse located on the pass. side area in between the door and the dash. That stopped the noise.

 

So now I've got no ABS (oh noes! ) but all brakes are working and no more noises.