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Brake Clunking


boostnawd

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This morning, when I release the brakes, a speed-dependant clunking sound was heard from the driver's rear. Step on the brakes, noise dissappears.

 

I'm at work now so I can't get too far into tearing apart my brakes, but I pulled off the wheel and noticed that the inner pad (the one on the piston side) can be moved by hand, and *I think* the noise is from it banging into the caliper bracket. I checked the other side, and very little to no play.

 

Are there anti-rattle clips, or something of the sort that I'm propably missing? The pad should definately not move so easily. Don't have a manual (yet).. I've been trying to find a diagram of the rear brakes online, without any luck. Does such a beast exist?

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that sounds like the caliper sticking and then releasing afterward! what car do you have. the only time i usually remember that happening is with gm fwd with drums in the rear and they are not adjusted right

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hmm that means no drums! well I can tell you that the rear calipers in early the w-bodies are POS and usually go bad. Its a poor design IMO. I would first check to make sure you e-brake cable is fully released. Jack up the car and spin the wheel and get someone to hit the brake an see what it does. If the caliper hasn't been replaced then its probably that. You should strongly thing about swapping in the newer calipers. You can get the info for the install from

(Chris's site) http://home.att.net/~aldridgec

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the wheel will spin freely without the brakes applied, when applied stops (duh). I don't think the caliper is sticky.

 

It's as if either the piston retracts too far and doesn't hold the pad in place or, like I originally asked, I'm missing some hardware that holds the pad in place.

 

Anyway, I should get a better idea when I get a chance to rip it apart at home.

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ah shit i found what my problem was, for some reason the part the calipers mount too was loose on both sides, the two torqs bit bolts. i stuck my head out my car as i backed up and hit the brakes only to see them shift. I remember wrenching(with a big ass 1/2 drive) into them so im wondering if i need to use lock tight or something cuz both sides were loose.

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I don't know offhand the exact torque setting on those bolts but you do have to use a descent size breaker-bar to get them tight enough (and in turn get them loose). It's a bit of a pain in the ass if you don't have the car on a lift but it's easily doable if you take your time. They should hold no problem once their tightened correctly.

 

Double check the movement of the sliders before you put the rear calipers back on.

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Well I took them apart on the weekend, turned out to be the anti-rattle clips.. I'm guessing whoever did the brakes last, reused the old ones. There was hardly anything of the old clip left.

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