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going synthetic...


Cam'ron

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gonna switch to synthetic motor oil tomorrow or sunday... without starting a pissin match which brand do you use?

i am thinking about Castrol Syntec cause i can get it for a decent price at costco, what else is good or is there really any difference to the brands... at this time i am not looking into the amsoil conversion.

has anyone tried the new penzoil platinum or whatever it is?

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last change i bought Maxlife, and accidentally grabbed synthetic. i don't really see a difference, so I don't know if I'll stay synthetic or not. If i actually wait til 3k to do changes i guess it wouldn't be so bad, cuz usually I do them closer to 2k-2500

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The stuff to run is Esso XD-3 0W-30 full synthetic. Costs around $16 for a 4L jug (you have to buy a case of 4 x 4L jugs) at an Esso bulk dealer.

 

A cab operator here in Saskatchewan runs GM 3.1/3.4L engines (in minivans, I believe, Pontiac and Oldsmobile) with in excess of 600k km's on the factory original engines and uses scientific used oil analysis to determine the appropriate oil change intervals. The intervals the scientific analysis has proven to be acceptable is between 40,000 and 50,000 km's on the 3.1/3.4L engines with the XD-3 0W-30 full synth oil. I've actually looked at the test data, and it is my opinion that he could probably run quite a bit longer (ie: 60,000 - 80,000 kms, probably with just a filter change), but he prefers to be slightly conservative.

 

$16 for a 4L jug is barely any more expensive than dino oil at Wal-Mart, and XD-3 0W-30 is a true synth, not a 'fake' synth such as Castrol Syntec, or many other products. Esso/Imperial Oil is actually part of the worldwide ExxonMobil organization. The reason XD-3 is cheaper is that it is marketed towards truckers and businesses, and not the 'consumer' market such as is Mobil-1. ExxonMobil spends a lot of money (as does Castrol, Valvoline, etc.) on marketing, and they have to recuperate these costs by pricing their motor oils at a premium price (but they do not have a premium product). [br]Posted on: May 29, 2006, 03:36:33 AM_________________________________________________BTW, the reason to use synth, really, the only reason to use synth is to go for the very long drain intervals. If you are just going to stick with the manual recommendation of what, 7500 miles or so, then spending extra money on synth is a complete waste of money. Pretty much any synth oil, in the 3.1 or the 3800, properly topped off, shouldn't have any trouble doing in excess of 20,000 km's.

 

Most dino oils, the new ones (API SM standard) contain a relatively high level of synthetic or near-synthetic component base oils.

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If you want Synthetic oil, dont buy castrol. It isnt a synthetic. It is a extreme processed oil. They get away with calling it synthetic (legally) because of the process they use to refine it.

 

I personally use 1 of 3 brands...

 

1) Mobil 1 (if its good enuf for a corvette, its good enuf for me)

2) Valvoline Semi-Synthetic Maxx-Life

3) Valvoline Synthetic Maxx-Life

 

Primarily I use Mobil 1, but if I get my change done at Valvoline instant oil change, I use the Valvoline.

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do you have any articles or whatnot that show this info. Im curious now.

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com is a pretty good site. This post in particular might interest you:

 

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=42;t=003892;p=1#000002

 

40,000km OCI with XD3 0w30

 

And his Used Oil Analysis

 

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=003345;p=1#000000

 

Basically no wear after 40,000km with XD-3, and the oil still is good for at least another 20-30k km's. Amazing, even considering the coolant leak (higher levels of sodium and potassium) the engine had developed.

 

At $16 (Canadian) for a 4L jug of full synth -- its impossible to beat the stuff, both on price, and performance.[br]Posted on: May 29, 2006, 03:14:21 PM_________________________________________________Here's another UOA after 40k in a 3.4L V6 60degree engine:

 

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002329#000000

 

Note the TBN = 8.4, and starting TBN is around 12. This means that with just 40,000km on the oil, the oil isn't even half used up additive-wise.

 

With these engines (the GM 60degree V6's), a 100,000km oil change is perfectly realistic, with maybe just 1 or 2 filter changes, and top-ups along the way, with a quality oil such as XD-3 0W-30. Imagine that, changing your spark plugs, motor oil, air filter, and tranny oil all at the same time, every 100k!

 

Sure makes the ppl who change every 3k look very silly, eh?

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royal purple or bust

 

i changed to the purple this year and I couldnt be happier def noticed better results

 

Ive been thinking about going to Royal Purple. Good to hear that your happy with it and noticing a difference. Maybe Ill notice a little difference in my 3100. Although the 6-7 bucks a quart is kinda tough. Its about 40 bucks for an oil change then.

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Yeah definitely, the 0W-30's are the way to go. Especially if you are in Canada.

 

I can definately say that the lower viscosity would be a benefit in the winter for you guys.

 

*EDITED to make sense :wink:

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Yeah definitely, the 0W-30's are the way to go. Especially if you are in Canada.

 

I can definately say that the lower viscosity would be a benefit in the winter for you guys.

 

*EDITED to make sense :wink:

 

The XD-3 0W-30 (and the Amsoil 0W-30) is actually thicker than most 5W/10W-30's when hot, but thinner when cold (ie: during startup). The best of both worlds essentially -- thinner when cold, for easier starting and minimal startup wear, thicker when hot, for lower wear. Both brands are good for at least 25,000km in either the 60degree engines or the 3800.

 

Just the nature of multigrades. The only way 0W-30 oils can be made is through the use of synthetics. Its not possible to use dino oil to make a 0W-30.

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