IRONDOG442 Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 Heres the deal guys... I just put a set of head gaskets on a 1995 3100 SFI engine. Replaced virtually every seal, put new plugs in, new air filter, new oil filter, thermostat, new pcv, pretty much the works. Well when I was filling the car back up with new antifreeze and bleeding the cooling system I thought i'd take her out for a drive to aid in opening the thermostat...I got her a little hot on the way home up to 220° then shut her down. She was running great while I was warming her up. I parked the car returned a week later and the car started with hesitation and ran really rough backfired then stopped, Like to a screeching halt. The starter had to be tapped a few times to break the engine loose again. The car has not ran good since I can barely start it at all I have to pump the accelerator like mad to even get her to fire up at all... when she does it sounds like horrific spark knock or a slight rod knocking or extreme lifter noise (which was not present before). I checked all the fuses there are no shorts anywhere. And did kind of a drop test while cranking the motor, when the #1 spark plug wire is pulled from the coil pack it seems like it wants to start more. The car puffs white smoke while running and I have a faint odor of gasoline in the oil. When I put the head gaskets on I tested to see if the heads were warped they are not they were totally straight. I misplaced the push rods and kind of mixed them up, but the car ran fine for at least 5 miles after I reassembled the engine so I dont think I mixed the exhaust and intake rods. The car backfires while cranking and it seems to come from somewhere in the front of the engine. When I canked it I noticed white smoke comming from the rear valve cover area too this may have nothing to do with the problem but it was noted .I am totally in the dark here and my next tool I am breaking out is 1 ounce of C4. HELP MEEEEE!!! One thing I should note, I used a highly unfamiliar torquing method for me to torque the head bolts, I used a Snap On tool that you torqued the bolts to 35 ft./lb (I think) then went 90° on this dial indicator that was attached to my torque wrench, that was specifically for torquing head bolts, I didn't like doing this but thats what the book called for. This may also be worth noting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonyman87 Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 220* is normal for that motor 1st do the simplests checks 1. check your oil is it low and or is it brown or normal 2. Check your coolant. is it low(if its low the its leaking into the motor) and is it the correct color? make note: starting Idle speed. if high idle how long does it do it idle speed when warm if fluids and idle check out normal then i will assume the heads were installed correctly along with the intake assembly. next i would pull 1 plug up front and see if it smells of oil/gas/fluids and document the condition of the plug including gap size. Then i would double check the fireing order on the plugs and maybe check your Crank sensor. Post what you find for those results to make further assumptions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 if your car is getting gas that is not burning, while the engine is not to temp the rings have not expanded and the oil will leak down to the crankcase. That is why your oil smells of gas. Check your firing order and crank sensor signal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRONDOG442 Posted May 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 There doesnt seem to be any oil in the antifreeze or antifreeze in the oil. The oil is not low and does not seem totally watered down, it has seemingly normal viscosity.When I reassembled the engine the car would not start at first, I went through the fuse box found out I had blown injector fuse. I traced the short down to the crank sensor wire being pinched between the block and the ac compressor bracket. I shorted the crank sensor wires and smashed them between the engine and the ac compressor when i put it back together I then took the bracket off and pulled the wires out from behind the bracket and the car ran fine for 5 miles. Then the problem showed up I went back in and fixed the wires by splicing new wires back in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted May 25, 2006 Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 check for signal from those wires. I have had my fair share of problems from the wiring of that damn crank sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonyman87 Posted May 25, 2006 Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 There doesnt seem to be any oil in the antifreeze or antifreeze in the oil. The oil is not low and does not seem totally watered down, it has seemingly normal viscosity.When I reassembled the engine the car would not start at first, I went through the fuse box found out I had blown injector fuse. I traced the short down to the crank sensor wire being pinched between the block and the ac compressor bracket. I shorted the crank sensor wires and smashed them between the engine and the ac compressor when i put it back together I then took the bracket off and pulled the wires out from behind the bracket and the car ran fine for 5 miles. Then the problem showed up I went back in and fixed the wires by splicing new wires back in place. did you sodier them or did you just tape them together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRONDOG442 Posted May 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 I cut the wires stripped them back... twisted them together and ran electrical tape over all three wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonyman87 Posted May 26, 2006 Report Share Posted May 26, 2006 You may want to check that connection and get the sodering gun out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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