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audiobahns


one_fast_prix

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this is a post i have in the z24 forums, no one knows there, so i'll try my luck here.

 

alright well it's that time again to get 3.5s in the dash and i was going to get audiobahns. well upon my search i discovered that there is 5 different audiobahn 3.5s alone, all with different specs. i know about rms wattage but the rest is just blowing my mind. below i'll list the 5 models and their specs and if someone could tell me the best one to go with and what this all means it would greatly be appreciated.

 

ABF23Q

65 rms

130hz-21khz

92db

 

AS31Q

60 rms

150hz-20khz

91db

 

ACS2035P

60 rms

100hz-22.5khz

92db

 

ACS2035N

60 rms

100hz-22.5khz

92db

 

AS31V

60 rms

150hz-20khz

91db

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Going on specs alone, these 2 are the best:

 

ACS2035P

60 rms

100hz-22.5khz

92db

 

ACS2035N

60 rms

100hz-22.5khz

92db

 

Ideally, humans can hear from 20Hz-20kHz. As you get older, that drops to 50Hz-15kHz. On speaker specs, the lower the first number and the higher the 2nd number, the better. That's not always the case since different manufacturers rate their speakers differently and there are a ton of other variables, but since these are all the same brand, I think it's safe to say the ones I quoted above are the best. Any way you look at it, you're not going to get hardly any bass or even mid-bass out of 3.5" speakers anyway.

 

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do i need to look at the db rating at all. in example: i think i've seen anywhere from like 89-92. does this mean anything at all? thank you very much for your knowledge, this has been very helpful.

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Yes, the db rating can be important, especially if you're using the stereo's built-in amp which are usually low powered. A speaker with a higher dB rating will be louder than one with a lower dB rating when both get the same amount of power. It's basically a measure of efficiency. A speaker with 3dB higher sensitivity than another only needs half as much power to reach the same volume.

 

Higher is not always better though... different brands may measure sensitivity differently, and sometimes compromises in sound quality are made to achieve a higher sensitivity.

 

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Exactly as Shawn has said.

 

But, since you will not be using these for bass(i hope), I would consider this set:

 

ABF23Q

65 rms

130hz-21khz

92db

 

But, then again, I don't care for Audiobahn, but I will keep my mouth shut on that.

 

 

 

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that's fine, i originally thought they were decent, but since i've had these posts up, evryone has had bad things to say about them, so i probably aren't going to go with them anymore but the numbers are still teaching me what to look for.

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What price range are you looking to spend?

 

What are you looking to get out of these speakers sound wise(bass, treble, mids)?

 

Stock headunit, aftermarket headunit, or amplifying these?

 

 

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see what the problem is, is somehow the reg outputs on the head unit blew, my 6x9s are fine, they are amped, but now i have no front audio so i have to amp them as well. i'm looking for very clear fronts with some decent power. price wise of course i'd like to get the best bang for the buck, but if i have to spend a little more to get what i'm looking for, so be it.

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also i've been reading into some things and looking at specs and no matter where i look i'm unable to find out what the hell "CEA2006" is? does anybody know what these ratings mean?

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Consumer Electronics Association. It is a new standard rating system that accurately measures different specs on electronics.

 

For example, before the CEA 2006 compliancy, any two companies could rate there products however they wanted now. But now, if they so choose, they can be compliant and rate there products according to the CEA standards.

 

Basically, its a way to give more accurate information for the customer. Look for it on any car audio electronics you buy.

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I get a little confused by these numbers as well... I've read up on it and this is my understanding of what those specs mean:

 

 

The RMS number is the average power handling of the speaker. (speakers and amps have both an RMS number and a peak number in terms of wattage ratings... RMS is the one to go by because that shows what the average power handling of the speaker/amp is) you want to match this number with the RMS power output of your system.

 

The second sets of numbers in those specs is the frequency range of the speaker. First number being the lowest frequency the speaker can accurately produce, and the second being the highest. Generally, the wider this range is, the better. Of course different manufacturers measure these frequency's differently, like shawn said, so between brands, those numbers don't always mean the same thing. (and on something like a 3.5, 100 hz is pretty good for low end frequency, remember that you'll have your larger speakers covering those midranges anyways).

 

Last, those DB ratings are "signal to noise" ratios. They don't represent necessarily how loud a speaker will get, but how loud it will get without reproducing "noise".... essentially it's a measure of the clarity and efficiency of the speakers... the higher the number the better.

 

 

Someone let me know if I've misinterpreted those, because I'm not 100% sure myself. I'm in a long process of designing a system for my current car, so I've been reading quite a bit on the subject lately. I'm going for the rediculously clean and accurate sound, not rediculously loud.

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Last, those DB ratings are "signal to noise" ratios. They don't represent necessarily how loud a speaker will get, but how loud it will get without reproducing "noise".... essentially it's a measure of the clarity and efficiency of the speakers... the higher the number the better.

 

Actually, it's not. With speakers, that's a sensitivity rating which ONLY tells you how efficient they are (higher dB = louder per watt). It has no effect on clarity. It's highly possible for a less efficient speaker to reproduce sound more accurately.

 

Signal-to-noise ratio is a specification of an audio source like a stereo, amp, CD player, etc. and is like you said, a ratio between signal vs. noise and would have an effect on clarity. Speakers do not have an SNR spec.

 

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I would recommend their subs. I had 2 12" 1206T's in my Malibu powered by 2 Phoenix Gold Octan R's Class "D" amps. If I put a system in my GP, I'm going to HAVE to get some Solar Barics!!!

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alright now i'm working on my components and what is going to go with my system the best, i can only find two companies that make the rms wattage i'm looking for. pheonix gold and focal. are either one of these decent and which is better?

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alright i have my speakers now and going with a 4ch amp for my dash speakers and componets, i have three candidates. of the three, power acoustik is the more affordable, now i have definitely heard of them, but know nothing about this brand, do they make decent amps or should i spend more money on the mtx or even more on the alpine? also i'm getting a yellow top for the trunk, now i'm going to use my existing 4ga. to it and wondering how to connect the batteries, i heard somewhere if you don't connect them a certain way, you create a closed circuit and make a 24 volt battery and blow everything?

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Phoenix Gold is AWESOME!!!!!!!! I've never heard of Focal so I can't say which one is better but I'm a huge fan of PG!!

 

There higher end stuff is good. I can't really say the same for there lower end line though.

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