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Finally started to fix drivability issues with the STE


dbtk2

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Now that the STE has a trans in it that has actually lasted a few hundred miles, I decided its about time to start figuring out why it runs like shit when just normally cruising, and why it gets 21mpg on the freeway. (I know part of the reason for that) :rolleyes: Especially since I have the car down at school here now and instead of sitting around being bored I can work on it. Not only that, but I don't really have anything else here to drive so I kinda have to make sure the STE is running right if I want to go anywhere.

 

Some of the major problems I've had with the car since I did the swap are that under part throttle acceleration, it bucks, or sputters, and stuff like that. I've noticed that this typically happens only when under boost but only low amounts of boost (like 2-5psi). If I go WOT it seems to run strong (besides not having big enough injectors), so typically when it would sputter I'd just mash the gas and it would run better :rolleyes:. Also, when you first start the car up it will start up and run at normal idle speed for like 1 second. Then it will rev up to 15-1600 rpm and sit there until you put the car in gear and drive it. If you drive it for a mile or two then the idle will go down to normal when you put it back in park. It also doesn't idle very smoothy once it does idle down. While crusing down the freeway it also feels the need to unlock the torque convertor with only a very very small amount of throttle. (part of the bad freeway mileage)

 

So today I went out and hooked up my scantool. Now I've only had it hooked up a couple of other times before this since I've done the swap, and that was just to look at IPW's & 02's to set my boost right, I wasn't really looking at any other parameters which I should've been. So I turn the key on but don't start the engine. Get the scantool setup so it knows what engine it is and whatnot, and I look over the parameters before starting the car. I notice one thing that wasn't right at all, the TPS sensor was reading 11%. :eek: The engine was off and my foot was nowhere near the gas. With probably somewhere around 60% throttle, the TPS sensor was showing 100% throttle. If I barely set my foot on the gas it would hit 30%. Now that explains the torque convertor issue. :exclaim: So I messed with the TPS sensor a little and got it to show 0% when it really was 0%. All of the other values became significantly closer to where they should be. So I start the car up and it idles normal for a second and then revs up to around 1500rpm (engine is warm so there is no reason for a high idle), which is the problem I had been having, then it actually dropped down to the desired idle speed after about 10-15 seconds. (925rpm) I decided to start driving the car, and with ~35% throttle where it used to sputter and not run too great, it got ~4psi boost and took off! :razz: Hell yeah I thought! The turbo seems to spool easier now (not that I needed that), I imagine because the a/f ratio is actually close to accurate now.

 

So I stop at a stoplight and it still seems to idle rough. Now that it actually idles down it actually stalls if I let it idle and it stalled at a stop sign too. I picked up an 02 sensor for it and I'm going to see if that helps, however the 02 sensor thats in it seems to be working right from what I can tell with the scantool. I know you TGP guys are going to say to get a crossover, but this car idled perfectly before the swap so I'm not gonna do that just yet.

 

After I put the 02 sensor in I'll fill you guys in on if it idles any better. I'm also gonna clean my IAC valve if I can somehow figure out how to get it out of the TB (the torx heads are stripped :mad:), I imagine its pretty bad if it looks anything like anything else that came off the engine I pulled my 3100 stuff from.

 

The plugs/wires/coils were new when I did the swap so the car should run pretty good once I do all this stuff. But I'm so happy that I resolved a lot of the problems with a simple TPS sensor problem.... Time for injectors I guess. :twisted:

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Good to hear!!!! What injectors are you going to go to? What is the stock lb./hr. for the LG5?

 

Also, those Torx bolts suck! I stripped out some on the 2.8 in the Cutlass, and some on my buddies freshly powdercoated L67 TB! He wasn't happy....

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awesome man! finally getting a chance to really enjoy the damn thing. get some new injectors and get some new dyno numbers!

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awesome man! finally getting a chance to really enjoy the damn thing. get some new injectors and get some new dyno numbers!

 

Thats the plan. I have the injectors, just need to get chip work done so I can run them.

 

What injectors are you going to go to? What is the stock lb./hr. for the LG5?

 

Stock LG5 injectors are the same size as stock L36 injectors, 22lb./hr. Since we have the stock injectors from my dads GTP sitting around with low miles on them (~15k miles) I figure I'll shove those in there and won't have to worry about injectors ever again. They are 36lb./hr. and got him into the mid 12's before maxing out. I never want this car to be any faster than that so its enough for me. But since 36lb. injectors are WAY bigger than what I have now, I'll definately need to get chip work if I want to run them at all.

 

It definately needs some issues resolved though, because although I didn't post it here, when I dynoed the car in April at the MIGPC dyno day it dynoed lower than it did when it was stock. :exclaim: The car was running like complete ass though, and I literally drove it from the dealer (from getting the trans fixed) to the dyno. Not only that but I'm pretty sure the numbers were inaccurate anyways.

 

I'll keep you guys filled in on it when I get everything finished. This car will run 13's with a T25 whether it likes it or not.

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