kadeas Posted May 15, 2006 Report Posted May 15, 2006 '95 GP 3100. Sometimes when I go to start my car it won't start. The fuel pump runs but the starter does nothing. I tried leaving the key on and jumping the starter silonoid and the motor just cranks and cranks and won't start. If I keep tring to start it with the key it will finally start right up. I've cleaned the chip in the key when this happens and it dosn't help. All the conections at the battery and starter ar fine too. Any ideas? Thanks! Quote
Regal_GS_1989 Posted May 15, 2006 Report Posted May 15, 2006 Does the security light come on or flash at all?? This sounds VATS related. Could be that the resistor pellet is really worn out, or the reader inside the ignition cylinder is worn out. Quote
DiscoStudd Posted May 15, 2006 Report Posted May 15, 2006 Try to see if it'll start in neutral. If it does, then your Park/Neutral safety switch is shot, or needs adjusting. Also your battery cables could be in need of replacing. Before you do that, though, make sure all of your connections are tight, especially the nut on the auxillary positive battery terminal (located under the red cap on the driver's side underhood fusebox) ... Quote
kadeas Posted May 16, 2006 Author Report Posted May 16, 2006 Ok, I've done the big 3 wire upgrade, and I'm using 1/0 wire. All the connections at battery, block, starter, frame, and aux. terminal are tight. Is there a way to tell if the chip is bad? Should I try to bypass the vats? Where is the reader, and is it hard to change? If I change the reader I'll need a new key too right? Oh...the car won't start in neutral either. The security light stays on with the key on untill the car starts, then it goes out. Quote
DiscoStudd Posted May 16, 2006 Report Posted May 16, 2006 http://vats.likeabigdog.com That'll answer most of your VATS related questions... Quote
kadeas Posted May 20, 2006 Author Report Posted May 20, 2006 Ok, so you think that's the problem? Quote
DiscoStudd Posted May 21, 2006 Report Posted May 21, 2006 If you get the SECURITY light, try another key first. The "reader" is inside of the ignition lock cylinder, and you'll need to disassemble the steering column to get it out. You won't need a new key if you change the lock cylinder/reader out. But like I say, try another key before you assume the VATS system is malfunctioning... Quote
kadeas Posted May 21, 2006 Author Report Posted May 21, 2006 Ok...now, yesterday I was driving down the road and the security light came on. I turned the car off to see if it would start up again with the light on. The car started fine and the light went off. A new key runs about 25.00 right? I'll try that tomarrow, but I figured if it was the key it would never start, not just sometimes, but I'm not sure. Quote
19Cutlass94 Posted May 22, 2006 Report Posted May 22, 2006 A new key with a chip in it has to be made at the dealer and will cost you about $100.00 I know I get that security light every once in a while, but I know its my key thats going bad. Quote
DiscoStudd Posted May 22, 2006 Report Posted May 22, 2006 A new key with a chip in it has to be made at the dealer and will cost you about $100.00 If you pay that much, you're a fool! The most I've seen a stealership charge around here is $30. You could go to a locksmith, as they tend to charge less for a VATS key... Quote
kadeas Posted May 22, 2006 Author Report Posted May 22, 2006 If you get the SECURITY light, try another key first. The "reader" is inside of the ignition lock cylinder, and you'll need to disassemble the steering column to get it out. You won't need a new key if you change the lock cylinder/reader out. But like I say, try another key before you assume the VATS system is malfunctioning... I got a new key, but have to wait to see if it acts up again. If I change out the lock cylinder I'll need a new key too right? My old key won't fit a new lock cylinder...right? Quote
DiscoStudd Posted May 23, 2006 Report Posted May 23, 2006 If you get a new lock cylinder, you'll have to have a new key cut to work the lock and have the same value on the "chip" that the old key had. No matter how many times you replace the lock cylinder, the resistance that the VATS "brain" is looking for from the chip on the key will always remain the same... Quote
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