garyk1970 Posted May 5, 2006 Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 this topic is a how to on molding in your gauge pod(s)so it wont stick out like sore thumb or look like a hack job but instead look as if it were factory...please ask questions if something was unclear to you,but also,dont get ahead of the steps.i aplogize for the pics,i took them with my razr phone(i lent out my dig camera).here we go... 1.before you get started,get all the tools/parts needed.nothings worse than to have to stop progress because i forgot something or figured i didnt need it yet,while i got further along than i thought i would.heres a pic of the main items but not all mentioned here. cleaner(prep)alcohol is ok as long as there is no silicione on pillar.if youve "shinned it up" before use wax/grease remover. body filler with fiberglass,regular body filler duplicolor bedliner spray in the aresol can,this is a trick that i will explain later,dont buy under coating,it wont dry hard enough.autozone/advance,etc C A glue and activator,this is super glue on steriods,apply glue then once you spray activator it will bond antything instantly.look to find at a hobby store(ie hobby town usa) short screws 1/2'' drill bit set,hand sander,sand paper 60,120,240 grit,optional rivet gun and rivets dye to match your color interior.grey,blue,burgandy are most common,can be found at any national chain auto parts store.brown as found in our TGP's was harder to find,i found a paint dealer that carried the brand name SEM color coatings.they have a good brown.ill post this part # tomorow. [br]Posted on: May 04, 2006, 11:37:50 PM_________________________________________________clean that a pillar from the j/y or the original.i can stress enough how important this is.if you start sanding your pillar with armouralll on it it will imbed the silcone and not allow anything stick to it later!!!![br]Posted on: May 04, 2006, 11:44:04 PM_________________________________________________scuff the lower half with 240 grit(where pod will be plus a couple of inches above and bellow)now,with the pillar back in place in the car,posistion the pod where you want it,hieght/angle,then secure it,use the screws supplied with the pod,or what ever you have, dont worry these are coming out later....[br]Posted on: May 04, 2006, 11:51:18 PM_________________________________________________take pillar/pod out of car.most pods are universal and wont fit our w body too well,take a heat gun(fastest)or a hairdryer and warm up the ends (one end at a time)of the pod slowly,once warm you can change the shape of the pod to close any gaps.also its a good time to trim any excess off.i had to cut some pod off at top near windshield and cut out around vent for the defrost for the drivers window.drill a 1'' hole in bottom/back of pillar (bottom pod)for wiring/vaccum hose to be routed later.once super glue and activator is added all around pod to pillar,its secure for now,take out screws.[br]Posted on: May 05, 2006, 12:03:11 AM_________________________________________________take 60 grit or a hand sander and sand down any high edges.agle them alittle.now its time for some glassin.follow the directions and mix a very small amount of body filler with glass in it and hardner.small amount to give you time and practice...apply where a pillar meets pod all the way around,mix several small batches,fill gaps,dont apply too much this stuff is hard to sand off,this is what will perminatlly bond pod to pillar.let dry sand any high spots and smoothout,this is the hardest part so have patience,how well you do now will show later...you can do it.[br]Posted on: May 05, 2006, 12:13:46 AM_________________________________________________if your car has this vent,make sure it stays clear...[br]Posted on: May 05, 2006, 12:17:00 AM_________________________________________________let me back up alittle,the rivets are for any one who cannot find ca glue and activator.....carefully drill flush mount indentions in pod so the rivets will flush mount,you cant sand enough later to hide these if you dont... [attachment deleted by admin] Removed to free up storage space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futuretgper Posted May 5, 2006 Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 will you post a pic of the hole you cut in the pod?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyk1970 Posted May 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 i can post pic of hole in back of pod for wiring for you tomorrow....i used a "unibit"[br]Posted on: May 05, 2006, 12:22:30 AM_________________________________________________now that the glass body filler is smooth,the hard part is done...its all down hill from here,regular body filler is easy to sand even by hand(i sanded 90% by hand on this one)now its time to apply body filler,its purpose is to hide these gaps we have from the pillar to pod.heres another trick a body man taught me when i was shaving some door handlesand it applies here;your body filler sould spread from 1/2'' below the top of the pod to 3-4 inches above pod.this makes the angles to be met very gradual and hardly noticeable when done...do the same with bottom,sides.use alot of filler here[br]Posted on: May 05, 2006, 12:32:31 AM_________________________________________________see how i applied filler from top of pod opening to 4 inches up?heres the body filler sanded smooth,again take you time this show later......[br]Posted on: May 05, 2006, 12:37:16 AM_________________________________________________yep that green plastic lawn chair was my best friend when i started to get tired of sanding.. its gonna get good here so pay attention....naturally work from rough to smooth paper,now that the body filler is smooth,fill those small air holes that were left behind with some more filler,i dont like primer becuase of the reactions with dyes and bedliner sray.once pillar is smooth,you cant just dye this it wouldnt match your other trim, dash,etc.the bedliner spray is my #1 trick to all this,what it does is (when sprayed at a distance of 12''evenlly is to put the factory grain apperance to your pod..)spray two coats to get the look that matches.i sprayed pod and pillar and faded out at very top were no work was done(that blends our grain to the factory).[br]Posted on: May 05, 2006, 12:50:08 AM_________________________________________________thats all for tonite..tomorrow pic on hole,and color match secrets/tips,then pics of final install..... [attachment deleted by admin] Removed to free up storage space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick1234 Posted May 5, 2006 Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 nice work. Yea i just fitted mine the best i could and screwed it in. Yours looks awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyk1970 Posted May 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 you can do this,everyone will think you car was made like that...or you spent some $ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z284pwr Posted May 5, 2006 Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 Very excellent, this is good stuff.... I am writing up a thing in word with proper steps numbering and stuff so its in order and easier to read, I'm a nazi like that One question, here.... "drill a 1'' hole in bottom/back of pillar (bottom pod)for wiring/vaccum hose to be routed later.once super glue and activator is added all around pod to pillar,its secure for now,take out screws." How exactly do you get the glue inside between the two if they are screwed in together? It would almost be easier to just use a marker and draw an outline on top and bottom as well as the screws then after trimming, remove the screws, seperate and put the clue, then line it back up and screw back in to dry. I guess I miss the part of getting the glue past the pod without it actually hitting the pod before it gets there *haha, I'm being a smart ass* but yeah, this is my first question, I'll continue with the write up so can ask all in 1 post........ Okay, next, more info on the rivets part would be nice too for those without glue. You say to drill flush mount holes to rivet. By this are you taking drill small indentation so the rivet will go down slightly further so it will be more "flush" with the pod so when you filler you can go right over it without it leaving high spots? This way almost sounds more secure than glue, 4 rivets in each corner would hold it pretty good...... #3, "your body filler sould spread from 1/2'' below the top of the pod to 3-4 inches above pod." You say this, I interpret this as you saying you only go a 1/2" from the pod to the pillar on the bottom but 3-4 inches on the top.. Then the next line "do the same with bottom,sides.use alot of filler here " tells me to do 3-4 inchs on the bottom unless I read it wrong? Also with this, I'm assuming by when you say trim the sides to match, you are trimming them so the edges of the pod and piller are the same width? So the filler will be used on the "flat" part where both edges meet together right? Then sand it down after its done? Alright, thats about all my questions, as you can tell I'm A. Interested in doing this, B. Never done fiberglassing before, and C. Picky Oh yeah, here is what I have so far for my "FAQ" for you. If I need to add anything let me know, I made it less commintary, more info stuff. This FAQ is on how to mold a “Universal†Gauge Pod into your factory A-Pillar trim. Feel free to ask any questions if something becomes unclear to you. Make sure you don’t get ahead of yourself and skip a step. 1. Before starting, ensure you have all the parts/tools you will need. Main items you will need are :a. Cleaner, such alcohol is okay, if you haven’t used a silicone based product to clean the pillar with. If you have, you will have to use a “grease/wax†remover, A.K.A Lacquer Thinner b. Body Filler with Fiberglass c. Regular Body Filler d. Duplicolor Bedliner spray in the aerosol can. *Make sure you get this stuff and not “under coating,†as it won’t dry hard enough. e. A glue and activator. Its basically ultra super glue. Its just like JB Weld style stuff, you use the glue then the activator to activate it, then it becomes nice and sticky and bonds. f. Small/Short screws, around ½†ones. g. Hand Sander and Sandpaper, 60, 120, 240 grit. h. Dye to match your interior color. i. Optional stuff includes a drill bit set and a rivet gun/rivets. 2. First, clean the pillar. This is extremely important to ensure there is no dirty or contaminants in the pillar, especially if you have used a silicone based cleaner, such as Armor All, as these will cause problems down the road and prevent the filler from sticking later. 3. Scuff the where the pod will sit approximately, as well as about 2-3 inches above and below where the pod will lay. 4. Put the pillar back in place then position the pod where you want it to be, then use the screws to secure the pod to the pillar. It may be easier to use a drill to drill small starter holes in the pillar/pod to make the screw go in much easier. 5. Now remove the pillar and pod out of the car, as most universal pods won’t fit the car very well, use a heat gun or dryer to warm up the edges of the pod, once it gets hot enough you will be able to bend the pod some and shape it to the pillar more and close any gaps. You may also have to trim some of the edges are hanging off past the pillar. 6. Next drill/cut a hole at the bottom of the pod to get the wires through. If you are using mechanical gauges, you will probably want the hole to be a pick larger to allow room for them. A large hole is probably recommended anyways as it tends to get a little tight once all the wires are in place. 7. Glue stage goes here, still need it answered…Rivet question waiting as well 8. Next if required, using 60 grit sand paper or a hand sander, sand down any high edges and angle the edges to better match stock appearance, as well as any possible imperfections. 9. Now for fiber glassing. Follow the direction on the package and mix a small amount of the fiber glassing stuff *Body Filler with Glass and Hardener.* Using small amounts will give you time and allow for practice. Apply the material all around where the pod meets to pillar. Use this to filler any other gaps as well. Use the stuff only as needed as it is difficult to sand any high spots and smooth out. This will generally be the hardest part so patience is the key here. As with most other stuff, how well you do now will show up in the end. 10. Once the fiber glassing is done, it gets a lot easier. Regular body filler is use to cover up and hide the remaining gaps between the pillar and the pod. The best way to make it look good is *waiting for answer to questions here* 11. After getting the filler all smoothed out and any additional holes patched up and you are content with the work, its time to paint. The bedliner comes in here. Its purpose is to give a “stock†grainy appearance. When sprayed properly, approximately 12†away evenly, it will give this appearance of the stock grains. 12. Then you spray two or however many coats is required to get the look of the interior. Another trick is to “fade†at the tops so it looks like the paint has been always there unless you are going to paint the entire piece. Damn message board and no HTML makes it kinda ugly....but you get the point....now I'm really wanting to go get the stuff and try thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyk1970 Posted May 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 alright,re-wording my how to is not needed, i feel you interpeded some things wrong,also im not a professional writer so expressing myself my not come out clear.so ask questions. laqure thinner is not what you want to use,too agressive.solvent called preps-all or prep i used works best. glue between pod and pillar?not needed!glue AROUND pod to pillar,a little of c a glue is incredibly strong.later body filler w,glass is whats going to hold two together. pop rivets;they are secure,make sure to flush them in.you have to try c a glue to believe it,activator for glue is the key.i work in car interiors and as you know whenever you take an old car apart,something IS gonna break,this glue has saved me over ond over again trim pod ,mine overlapped edge of pillar,and covered vent [br]Posted on: May 05, 2006, 07:49:13 AM_________________________________________________apply regular body filler as wide as you can,this makes seam from pillar to pod dissapear.see pic 1941.we will color/dye ENTIRE pillar when done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Posted May 5, 2006 Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 that makes me horny! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyk1970 Posted May 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 ok,once pillar is smooth,and texture is applied, its finally time to dye/color match.my TGP has a two tone brown and tan interieor and i found SEM color spray.part#15483 bluebird brown.this is a very close match,heres another tip that will help to make a good job. you can have a custom dye mixed which you spray with a paint gun,at any good interior shop but theres a strong chance it wont match perfectlly either after all that $$,older cars suffer sun damage/fading,look around your colors dont match even from the factory(look at contrasts from dash to A pillars,etc)heres what i recommend.my trick of the trade if you will,after coloring drivers A pillar, i also colored passenger A pillar,also i colored top frount of my door panels that were also brown that were now sun faded the worse,coloring other items around your work will make all this blend in together!![br]Posted on: May 05, 2006, 11:13:38 AM_________________________________________________pics... [attachment deleted by admin] Removed to free up storage space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted May 5, 2006 Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 Repainting the rest of that stuff turned out really good. Sun fade really eats this stuff over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futuretgper Posted May 5, 2006 Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 wow that looks awsome!!! i think z284pwr is just trying to help man!! you should work with him cuase if you can get it down to step by step with some answers to his questions itll be alot easier to understand and then people won't be asking you this stuff over and over!! way to bring something to the board!! very nice to see a newcomer with fresh ideas and knowledge!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutty Posted May 6, 2006 Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 damn that does look awesome!!! so who wants to make me one now?? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z284pwr Posted May 6, 2006 Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 wow that looks awsome!!! i think z284pwr is just trying to help man!! you should work with him cuase if you can get it down to step by step with some answers to his questions itll be alot easier to understand and then people won't be asking you this stuff over and over!! way to bring something to the board!! very nice to see a newcomer with fresh ideas and knowledge!! Yeah, what he said, I'm just really trying to help out and get it down to a "Step-by-Step" write up that maybe they can throw into the FAQs. I was just trying to make it easier to find the information in one spot. I'm will and here to help you out and do make a write up if you want, if not, no big deal, I can take my little write-up and save it and refer to it when I attempt this. Oh and again, good job, it looks really nice in there and I'm really looking forward to trying this, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyk1970 Posted May 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 z28pwr,i over reacted some :mrgreen:any help is greatly appriceated...when answering questions it will be alot easier your way.realize also that the very minor details all added up in the end is what produces a good job over a bad one.all i ask is quote me closer to my own words.without my commentary.... :biggrin:thanks, Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z284pwr Posted May 6, 2006 Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 z28pwr,i over reacted some :mrgreen:any help is greatly appriceated...when answering questions it will be alot easier your way.realize also that the very minor details all added up in the end is what produces a good job over a bad one.all i ask is quote me closer to my own words.without my commentary.... :biggrin:thanks, Gary Yeah, that is why I posted it up, it was a bit difficult to sift through commentary and info though I was having some good laughs at the time is probably why, haha. I definitely planned on going back and go through it again. You mentioned the cleaner stuff you used, do were there any other "items" you used that you didn't post here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyk1970 Posted May 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 nothing major,i mixed fillers on cardboard,used a "unibit"dril bit for hole in back of pod,body filler spreader,paper towles,tape (masking off door panel).On one of the top tabs(where clip holds the pillar to car body)i used a small set of channel locks there,then hung pillar with a piece of clothes hanger so it would hang freely so i could spray bedliner/color.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Posted May 7, 2006 Report Share Posted May 7, 2006 so u willing to do that for anyone else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutty Posted May 7, 2006 Report Share Posted May 7, 2006 so u willing to do that for anyone else? x2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuntzie Posted May 7, 2006 Report Share Posted May 7, 2006 Gary.... looks like mine is gunna turn out great ... the trade is well worth it.... also im going to send u a PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyk1970 Posted May 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2006 i will,took me a total of a days work,$90 labor,$35 materials,+ shipping, send me your pillar.you guys can do this yourself if you follow guide,and youll get props for doin it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyk1970 Posted May 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2006 bump,has anyone tried this yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z284pwr Posted May 13, 2006 Report Share Posted May 13, 2006 bump,has anyone tried this yet? I have the filler, fiberglass filler, and truck bed coating....finding the SEM color is a bit of a drive and I need to find time to get to the JY to pull a Pillar to use. I found a Universal Triple pod online for like $26 total with shipping so going to order than Monday, then I will be....Lack of time owns me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted May 13, 2006 Report Share Posted May 13, 2006 that sounds good, $26 you say? I went out and got a can of the truck bed liner. I might do a triple pod too. any chance you could get us a link to that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futuretgper Posted May 13, 2006 Report Share Posted May 13, 2006 gary....were you gonna post a pic of the hole you had to cut in the pod...im still not clear where it was cut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyk1970 Posted May 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2006 $26 for a tripple pod is a steal....http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=41730.0;attach=535 this pic (#0925 posted in the last group of pics)show the hole for wiring/vaccum lines.the hole should be on the back side of pillar opposite where the bottom hole in pod (where bottom gauge goes)this allows the wiring to pass behind pillar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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