need help with 5 speed swap wiring

[93GTP]

I'm swapping a Getrag 284 into my 93 GTP and I need some help with the electrical side. More specifically, the Clutch Start Switch and the Shift Anticipate Switch.

 

I read the 5 speed swap article on 60 degree which gives instructions for getting things up and running. But the writeup only mentions the anticipate switch (the 4 pin one in the pedal assembly bracket) but does not explain how to wire it in. There is no mention at all of the clutch start switch (the big switch that is mounted to the floor that the clutch pedal strikes when FULLY depressed...2 pin I believe...would have to look at it again). I know I don't need these for everything to physically work, but they are features I want to have.

 

Does anyone here have any knowledge/experience with this part of the swap? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

 

[5speedz34]

What is the Shift Anticipate Switch, I've owned 2 3.4/284 cars and I've never heard of it. I know of the clutch switch.

 

I've also looked at the diagram in my parts book and it shows nothing of what your talking about. All that is under there is the clutch switch, and the brake light switch. I can't find what you're talking about. I can scan pages in if you want from my parts book. Does it look like this?

 

[93GTP]

The pic you posted is not it, that's the brake switch isn't it? (It's been a while now since I pulled all the parts from my Z34 donor car). The Anticipate Switch is threaded into the pedal bracket assembly (the aluminum bracket that the brake and clutch pedals are bolted into). The switch itself is pretty small and has 4 pins. It controls cruise cutout when the clutch is depressed among other things I would imagine. And just to distinguish, the Clutch Start Switch is mounted to the floor.

[5speedz34]

The pic you posted is not it, that's the brake switch isn't it? (It's been a while now since I pulled all the parts from my Z34 donor car). The Anticipate Switch is threaded into the pedal bracket assembly (the aluminum bracket that the brake and clutch pedals are bolted into). The switch itself is pretty small and has 4 pins. It controls cruise cutout when the clutch is depressed among other things I would imagine. And just to distinguish, the Clutch Start Switch is mounted to the floor.

 

Yeah, its the brake switch. I think I found the part I'll scan in the pic, when I get home from class. It lists the same part number for the auto and manual.

 

Did you post on 60v6?

[93GTP]

Yea I posted in the transmission section a few weeks back and haven't got one reply Are you talking about the Anticipate Switch? That wouldn't be listed for the auto since it doesn't have one.

[5speedz34]

Yea I posted in the transmission section a few weeks back and haven't got one reply Are you talking about the Anticipate Switch? That wouldn't be listed for the auto since it doesn't have one.

 

Yeah, I'm talking about the anticipate switch. I would figure the auto would have one, but it would be for the brake.

[93GTP]

No the Shift Anticipate Switch is only in the 5 speeds. The switch gets pressed by the clutch pedal arm when you push the clutch in. The part # is 10180569. I figured there must be someone on here who has wired these switches in, but perhaps not.

[Guest TurboSedan]

i have wired that in. mine is 2-pin though not 4-pin. there is a brown and a brown/white wire coming out of the clutch/cruise cut-out switch. the only thing that switch does is turn the cruise control off when you step on the clutch pedal. there is a brown wire in the underdash harness that goes to pin 'G' on the CC module (the 3"x5" black box right in front of the switch). cut the brown wire going to the CC module and splice it onto the brown wire going to the clutch/cruise cut-out switch. now run the brown/white wire from the clutch cruise cut-out switch to pin 'G' on the CC module.

 

basically you wire the clutch/cruise cut-out switch in series with the wire coming from the brake switch so anytime either pedal is pushed the cruise is turned off.

 

 

[93GTP]

Your's is 2-pin hey? I wonder what the extra pins are for on mine then? I need to sort out the other 2 pins...I remember Ben saying that the switch is also used for the ECU to sense load on the engine so that rpms don't climb between shifts. I think Step 4 of the writeup on 60 degree explains where the other 2 need to go. It says: "4) If after doing the swap you get code 39, then you have to extend another wire off the round 8-pin harness for the transmission, because what is happening is on a manual car there is a switch that is engaged and disengaged by the clutch pedal and is part of the pedal assembly. What it’s looking for is when there is load on the motor. On an automatic it would be the wire for the torque converter clutch circuit. On the harness it’s the red wire. That’s what you extend and connect to the switch under the dash for the pedals. It is 4 pin, two are for the clutch safety switch (which I didn’t bother hooking up), and the others are for that and ground. The cruise control also references this to know when to disengage the cruise if you press the clutch when the cruise is engaged.".......So it appears for the other 2 pins, one needs to be wired to the red wire in the auto trans harness and the other to ground.....

 

From what you said above, I guess in the auto's under dash harness there is a brown wire that runs from the brake switch to the CC module? That's the wire I need to go inline with for the Cruise Cutout Switch. How about the Clutch Start switch that is mounted to the floor of a 5 speed that the clutch pedal hits when fully depressed? Have you wired that in?

 

Thanks TurboSedan, this is definitely a step in the right direction! I'm so glad to start figuring out what I have to do here.

[Guest TurboSedan]

Your's is 2-pin hey? I wonder what the extra pins are for on mine then? I need to sort out the other 2 pins...I remember Ben saying that the switch is also used for the ECU to sense load on the engine so that rpms don't climb between shifts. I think Step 4 of the writeup on 60 degree explains where the other 2 need to go. It says: "4) If after doing the swap you get code 39, then you have to extend another wire off the round 8-pin harness for the transmission, because what is happening is on a manual car there is a switch that is engaged and disengaged by the clutch pedal and is part of the pedal assembly. What it’s looking for is when there is load on the motor. On an automatic it would be the wire for the torque converter clutch circuit. On the harness it’s the red wire. That’s what you extend and connect to the switch under the dash for the pedals. It is 4 pin, two are for the clutch safety switch (which I didn’t bother hooking up), and the others are for that and ground. The cruise control also references this to know when to disengage the cruise if you press the clutch when the cruise is engaged.".......So it appears for the other 2 pins, one needs to be wired to the red wire in the auto trans harness and the other to ground.....

 

i'm just as glad that you brought this up! because RPM DOES climb when i shift and it drives me nuts! i wonder if i have the wrong switch in my car? and i wonder if this has anything to do with the bucking problem i have and/or the surging idle? i'm going to have to get that 4-pin switch and wire the other two wires to ground and the other to the red wire from the round 8-pin connector. thanks for posting the part# i hope it's still available

 

From what you said above, I guess in the auto's under dash harness there is a brown wire that runs from the brake switch to the CC module? That's the wire I need to go inline with for the Cruise Cutout Switch.

 

yep, i think that brown wire comes from the brake switch and goes to the CC module. i'm not 100% positive since i don't have a wiring diagram in front of me. you just need to wire the clutch/cruise cutout switch inline with that brown wire.

 

How about the Clutch Start switch that is mounted to the floor of a 5 speed that the clutch pedal hits when fully depressed? Have you wired that in?

 

i did not bother wiring that in. i still have it but i doubt i'll ever use it.

[93GTP]

The switch is listed on gmpartsdirect.com Good luck fixing your RPM and idle issues. Let me know how it goes.

 

When it comes to the Clutch Start Switch, I'm guessing that it is wired inline with the ignition switch. It would make sense that this switch needs to close along with the ignition switch so your starter actuates. Plus the 2 yellow wires from it (in and out of the switch) come from the steering column. I may not wire it in either because I doubt the wiring is there in the auto harness and adding wires to the steering column will certainly be a pain. I'll see when I get to that stage of my swap and have my column dropped...

 

Again, has anyone actually wired this switch in?

[Guest TurboSedan]

here is a pic of mine:

 

[93GTP]

Thanks TurboSedan, I understand how that switch (anticipate switch) needs to go in from your help already. I was referring to the Clutch Start Switch in my last post (the one that mounts to the floor and the clutch pedal strikes when fully pressed). Has anyone wired that one in? Again, I believe it would go inline with the ignition switch because the two wires that go to it (in and out) lead up into the steering column in the 5 speed Z34 I have. Plus it would make sense being that it's a start switch (the circuit needs to close at the ignition switch and at the clutch start switch for the starter to turn).

[SuperBuick]

Reviving another one here - because the information is good and no sense making a new thread!

 

If a donor car is available, could the “inside/under dash” harness just be used from that to eliminate any rewiring? Or is that a fool’s errand because it ties into the entire body harness?