new switch fix for cutlass convertible

[briandors]

As many of you convertible owners know, the switches in the "roll bar" lights tend to melt and stop working. These parts are no longer available from GM and even when they were, it required buying an expensive assembly.

 

I did some exploring and talking with Digi-Key based on another user's excellent write up on how to fix this problem. I feel I have a slightly easier fix.

 

The switch you will need is at http://www.digikey.com and search for part number 527PB-ND.

 

There's less wiring to do with this one, but there is a tiny bit of mechanical "work". Sorry I didn't take pics but it's very straightforward.

You may choose to disconnect the battery for this procedure. It all depends on how comfortable you are working on electrical stuff that is "hot" and being careful not to short stuff out. I am not responsible for anything you do/cause, this is just a guide.

 

1. Remove screws from light lens to remove lens.

2. Loosen nuts to drop down assembly.

3. Slide switch to side and pop it out.

4. Cut wires leading to old switch, leaving yourself perhaps 3" hanging to work with.

5. Cut the wire leads on the new switch to be roughly the length of what is still attached to the old switch. Better to leave them a bit LONGER than to come them too short.

6. Strip insulation and then either solder and tape, or, use butt connectors to crimp the wires together. NOTE: THE COLORS DO NOT LOGICALLY MATCH UP. The two black wires WILL be joined, but the two white wires will not. You'll have a white-red and a white-grey connection. This will make sense when you're staring at it. I strongly suggest you twist the wire pairs together by hand and test before you make the connection permanent.

7. The new switch came with a plastic nut on it. Remove the nut, but keep it.

8. Place one washer (nylon if you have it, but metal should be ok) over the push-button of the switch BEFORE you stick it into the mounting hole. This will cause the switch to sit slightly higher up. Now slide the switch over to it's correct position in the mounting hole. Note that there is ridge on the new switch that would normally lock the switch into position just as the old one was BUT due to the longer push-button on the new one, you don't use this. Mount the switch by just dropping it into the hole. Then secure the switch by using the nut that was included. Tightened up, it won't budge.

9. Reassemble and test. I found the switch every so slightly too long still at this point, and using a utility knife, I trimmed the ridges off the inside of the rubber button cover. This made the button on the switch fit deeper into the rubber button cover. Easy and not visible once assembled.

 

I think this is SLIGHTLY quicker/easier/cheaper than the other method, but the other one has its advantages as well.

 

Hope this helps

Brian

[SigEpCutlass]

I don't own a cutty vert, but this should definately be moved to the FAQ section and made a sticky. Thanks for the writeup man!

[GnatGoSplat]

Nice! They didn't have those SPDT switches back when I fixed mine, or else I would have just gone that route for simplicity's sake. However, I wonder if the aftermarket Judco switches will last any longer than the factory ones?

 

I didn't mention in my old writeup that my SPST switches were a bit long too. I didn't know it when I wrote that writeup because I didn't have rubber buttons at the time, but a guy on eBay who bought a domelight assembly graciously donated me his old rubber buttons. I then discovered I had to use my Dremel and trim some of the threading off the switch and slightly sand down the button for the rubber buttons to fit perfectly. It never occurred to me to use a washer.

 

 

[Psych0matt]

ehh, i just wired mine into the rest of the dome lights. maybe someday ill fix them correctly, but i did that three years ago and don't know if ill remember what i did!

[Justin]

FWIW, there's a member on this board that works there, might be able to get a discount.