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engine rebuild specs


GutlessSupreme

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called the machine shop today, they're saying I'm going to need 30 over pistons/rings, but I can do standard sized rod and main bearings for my TSTE rebuild.

 

does that sound right?

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ok, thanks. just sounded weird to me that the pistons needed to go so far over but the bearing sizes were fine. I guess that makes sense though, just means the rings were probably in bad shape.

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doesnt say a lot about the rings, it just says that they will have to dig into the cylinders a bit in order to get a good surface to cross hatch that will allow new rings to create a good seal with. are they assembling the short block or are you?

 

sounds like fun.. a lot of work but fun.. take your time when assembling and for Gods sake be careful of the new cylinder walls when installing the pistons, and make sure those guys clean out the oil passages, but that should be done anyway cause of them boring it. just double check them so you dont cook it on start up.

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I'm just gonna have them reassemble the bottom end. I'd rather not fuck it up considering the money I've put into this.

 

block had 158k on it and was dirty as hell inside. I don't think it was really abused but it was definetly neglected for the better part of it's life. Maybe that's just what happens when using dino juice vs synthetic, even at normal intervals; I dunno.

 

 

1 small stupid thing...

 

the shop tells me 30 over (meaing .030 over right?)

The piston/ring sizes on the Northern Auto site list as .30

 

????

 

I assume I'll be fine.. but I want to make sure.

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correct. if I were you I would call them and speak to a person, it makes it a little easier to return shit if they make the mistake sending the wrong parts and what not. They will customize a kit for you no problem.

 

.030 over isn't bad. you are good to go on the rest of the setup. make sure you get the right pistons though, don't want to pop one on the first high speed run, and do take it easy on it when breaking it in.

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yea I had to call them to order the master kit how I wanted (I already had the lifters, cam and gaskets so I skipped out on those). Wasn't too bad but I wish he had given me an invoice number or something. guess it shouldn't be too hard to find my order if a problem comes up though.

 

There's only 1 set of pistons between the N/A and turbo, wasn't that agreed? the site lists them as dished so as long as they're not flat top I should be all set right? but yea I'll definetly have to force myself to take the break-in easy..

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you will want to break it in on normal mineral oil, probably 10w30 or maybe 5w, it all depends on preference. make sure its basic oil with as little detergent as possible. once the cam is broken in, change the oil, and run fresh 10w to drive it around, changing rpms and whatnot for the first 500 to 1000 miles. don't take it for a 65 mph cruise control run. make sure to use a lot of lube on the cam, soak the lifters in oil for a couple of days before you install them also.

 

and most importantly take pics of it when you pick it up!!

 

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