CPSMonteZ34 Posted April 11, 2003 Report Share Posted April 11, 2003 The front driver rotor can't go more than 3 kms without heating up severely. Ya wouldn't know it unless you put your hand close to the rotor to feel the intense radiating heat and burning-metal stink vs. the passenger side being completely touchable. There's no drag or pull during driving, but definitely less coasting distance --- so I'm thinking the caliper is binding. For my model (95) Monte Carlo, it runs 10.5" rotors. I'm going with the premium rotors over the cheapo $24 ones that would last all of a month before warping. I'm guessing an upgrade to the 11.5" rotors would require more than just swapping the rotors and calipers, but needing the new strut and knuckle assemblies from a 96 or 97 W-body? If so, heck with that, I'm not Mario Andretti with my car. Pads are barely a couple months old, and I plan on just scuffing them of any glazing and trying them again. Should they be less than effective, I'll replace them too. It's easy to replace them anyway. Doing a rebuild on the calipers myself could be done, but with the core replacement meaning they would only cost about $10 each - I figure the newly rebuilt calipers would be more trusting, and less of a pain in the ass. So I'm doing a rotor and caliper replacement with a flush of the braking system for new fluids. I have a litre of fluid...should that be enough? Is this all something you would consider for yourselves in a case like mine? Just wanted to know before I start on Saturday. Thanks, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted April 11, 2003 Report Share Posted April 11, 2003 yeah that sounds like a plan. I did a forced rebuild on one of my rear calipers, which was easy, but took forever. I wouldnt spend the time rebuilding a front one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPSMonteZ34 Posted April 12, 2003 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2003 Question: I'd been planning on painting the calipers (have a crap-load of leftover metal enamel paints from welding) and figured the best time to do it was while I didn't even have the calipers installed yet. Of course, they're coated in an oily residue that I'll have to remove. Since I wouldn't want to destroy the piston seals, what should I use to remove the grease? Maybe just an S.O.S. steel wool pad and a bit of patience? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfox340 Posted April 12, 2003 Report Share Posted April 12, 2003 Simple Green... let em soak or use a old tooth brush to scrap it off. Use the steel wool to get a good bite for the paint and use some weak laquer linner to prep the metal after completely cleaning them with Simple Green; it'll get all the excess residue off. Best of luck; get some pictures if you can! - RedFox340 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted April 12, 2003 Report Share Posted April 12, 2003 Rather than simple green, use castrol super clean degreaser. I have great results with it personally, but that's just me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted April 12, 2003 Report Share Posted April 12, 2003 Simple green is an excellent degreaser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96montyZ34 Posted April 12, 2003 Report Share Posted April 12, 2003 take a few pics as you go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPSMonteZ34 Posted April 12, 2003 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2003 Thanks much, and of the pics, will do. ...and soon as I figure out where I put my friggin' digi-cam. Gees, buy a friggin' $700 Pocket PC and I'm STILL this disorganized. I suck donkey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPSMonteZ34 Posted April 13, 2003 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2003 I'm impressed, I still have skin on my knuckles. That's usually a sign that I didn't do the job well enough. I did a quick page on the process, WITH PICS! It shouldn't take long to load, they're all thumbnails. Have a look if you want...and sorry for the phuckin' popup ads from Tripod. http://members.tripod.com/shadowdog/brakes.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted April 13, 2003 Report Share Posted April 13, 2003 Good job on the brakes and the site on it. Thats a good job. When I do my rockers and springs this summer, I wanna take pics and make a page about it, so if anyone else wants to do it, they'll know how Robby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfox340 Posted April 13, 2003 Report Share Posted April 13, 2003 Quite impressive! :shock: Those calipers look great!!! How do they feel / stop? Gotten any test runs in yet? - RedFox340 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted April 13, 2003 Report Share Posted April 13, 2003 Hey, you got an error: " Now, a new brake design in '96 allowed for 11.5" rotors. One entire inch larger! That may not seem like much, but think of this one inch in parallel to a man's penis! Hey, sorry to be so vulgar, but there's no denying just how much of a difference one inch can make! In all seriousness, that one inch translates into a lot more surface area for larger pads to contact with, slowing a car down faster, and dispersing the heat far better. " The brake pads and calipers are exactly the same on the 10.5's and 11.5's. So there's no increased pad surface. However, the reason for the larger rotor is that the caliper is further away from the center of the wheel, thus braking effectiveness goes upo. Just thought Id give ya a heads up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPSMonteZ34 Posted April 13, 2003 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2003 Thanks guys. I feel like 'job well done' after that. Robby, it's worth it. Sometimes it amazes me how much people need to know and it's such a difficult thing to find an answer for. Anything helps, and we're practically the most well-natured helpers for each other as any group can get. RedFox340, didn't test yet. I wanted to give the paint at least an overnight to dry so I don't have brake dust stuck all over them. There's no chance they'll stay looking that good either, so we'll see tomorrow when I go to work. (The only one on the road at 5:30 am, so unless there's an Elk, I can get a good test run) Brian, thanks for the info. I appreciate total, upfront candidness. I thought about it and realized how it made sense...you don't see too many vehicles from hatchback to CrownVic with that much of a difference in pad size (albeit some, but not substancial). The one inch makes loads of sense...but too bad I'd have to retool the entire front setup to use them. Oh well. Anyway, info corrected since posting this reply. Thanks again guys. Next project, timing belt. (That is, unless the muffler decides to turn into swiss cheese before then). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPSMonteZ34 Posted April 26, 2003 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2003 For the few that wanted to know, now that the pads have had the opportunity to adjust to the new rotors, the bite of the brakes is excellent. Most definitely, the brake fluid flush does contribute to the new-found power of the brakes. For how cheap it is to grab a litre or two of brake fluid, and the hour-or-so it takes a couple of people to perform the task, it's great maintenance to get the best of your new (or even original) brakes. Something well worth doing every few years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted April 26, 2003 Report Share Posted April 26, 2003 cool beans i bought some strut/knuckle assemblies at a local salvage yard from a 50,000 mile '97 Cutlass sedan, so i'm going with the big brakes. i think they charged me $100 and that included the spring. i've already done the '94+ larger rear brakes. the front strut/knuckle assemblies aren't too hard to replace (nothing compared to a fuel pump!). i'll just reuse my old calipers and get some new pads. also some SS braided brake lines and a good flush should really make this car stop a helluva lot better than ever before. later, joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted April 26, 2003 Report Share Posted April 26, 2003 Don't forget the alignment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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