ChadZ34 is potentially getting NOS!

[DaveFromColorado]

... there were people flaming him from the get go, those are the folks I was refering to as stupid, not the folks who had valid points. so perhaps I shouldn't have said "All" more like "many"

 

Yeah, there's a chance he'd either spit bits of his piston through the exhaust, but there's also a chance he'd just burn a hole in one, and send moltant metal down into the oilpan, but there's also a good chance he could toss a rod without any power adders, or also a good chance that there will be no ill result from running the giggle juice..

 

I'm saying, a 50 shot would be okay, with a WET kit, not a dry kit, offered some little tips on making it work right, and suggested to get it up on a dyno to get it tuned correctly, especially if they're gonna run anything bigger then a 50 shot. I also pointed out that most wet kits overjet the fuel so you're runnin' super rich anyhow.

 

 

--Dave.

[dohcfiend]

everything dave said is on target another good rule of thumb is until u get it really tuned is retard the timing 2 degrees for every 50hp increment. so go 3 to be safe.

 

what i would recommend is the newer version msd dis4 boxes for timing as they have a feature called step retard that only retards timing when nitrous is activated so you don't have to drive around all the time with timing pulled out. also the capacitave discharge system will result in a better burn.

 

another thing highly recommended is a min/max rpm box add-on for your nitrous system u insert 2 rpm pills into it and the nitrous will not cut on until the min rpm is reached and will cut off when the max rpm is reached. this right here is the reason for most engine failures is engaging nitous under the wrong rpm.

 

just off the top of my head min should be 3k-3200 and max should be 6500-6700. YOU DO NOT WANT TO SPRAY TO REDLINE!!!!!!!!! THESE ENGINE HAVE A FUEL CUTOFF REV LIMITER. until u get it really tuned, id go 3500-6500.

 

lastly, a fuel pressure cut-off switch is another good idea as well but if u are strapped for $$$ and have no problems with your fuel system, u may be able to get by without it(on a 50 shot).....it's your motor though.

 

also like dave said start off with a 50 and gradually bump up to a 100 after u get it tuned. i do not think hypereutectic pistons can take any more than a 100 shot on a v6 but i could be wrong. anthying above 50 and a REALLY good idea is to upgrade you fuel system with a high volume walbro fuel pump and maybe an adjustable regulator but u may be able to use the stock regulator, unless you are running a dedicated pump and line to fuel your nitrous which is always best.

 

be4 you install your system, a compression check will be in order. if your motor has good, even compression across all cylinders then go for it. if not.........it's your motor. also be4 you install and after u do a compression check, do a leakdown test to make sure nothing is escaping past your valves b/c as with the compression check, if u have alot of leakage that means not all of your cylinders will be getting equal amounts of air(which is bad for n20 or boost) and can create a tuning nightmare. but the leakdown test shouldn't be necessary if all of your cylinders have good, even compression. it is more to determine whether the air is getting by the valves or the rings i believe.

 

it has already been proven the stock internals are pretty strong on these particular engines. the headgaskets however are another story. most likely your head gasket(s) or head(s) will fail long be4 your internals will unlless u are running too lean or detonating(usually caused by running lean).

[White93z34]

okay, since all these guys are stupid

 

 

i never said that he WOULD do any damage, but when you do that the chance is sure as shit alot greater, especially to his daily driver.. and i still have yet to see him answer my questions from page one.

 

all said, what I would do if i had a 1996 3.4 that i wanted to mod, i'd not start with nitrous. since his car is a 96' he has headers avaliable to him, he can actually tune his pcm fairly easy, may have to do some research, but that would actually teach you something. he can get the UD pulley, then a larger exhaust. i don't want to hear the BS about no aftermarket for his car.

[chadz34]

okay, since all these guys are stupid,

 

 

 

You wanna know what could happen.....

 

High milage motor meet detonation (if it's not tuned right)

You end up shittn parts of your piston through your tailpipe.

 

Yes, thats a worst case sanrio , but if it's your daily driver, are you willing to take that chance? You had already stated you don't have the required equipment to pull an engine .... Just think twice about it...OK?

 

If you want to do it, thats your call, I hope it goes well for you... really. I would like to know what the looks on the faces are of the people you spank.

 

 

 

 

For one thing, my 96' Lumina only has 94,000 km on it, it is NOT high mileage whatsoever. Secondly, maybe I will consider headers first. Need to save just a bit more.

[jeremy]

<-------shakes his head at people always refer to nitrous as "NOS"......thanks FNF

[chadz34]

<-------shakes his head at people always refer to nitrous as "NOS"......thanks FNF

Well not only that, but it weould be the brand I got. So, you can't really shake your head at me. In addition, I'm pretty sure a nitrous injected DOHC would be no slouch either.

[dohcfiend]

there is an onld saying when it comes to HP adders, either cheap or reliable PICK ONE.

 

fair warning: this isn't the entire quote, but a section i took out of it to make a point.

 

there is alot of truth to this. a basic n20 system will get u what u need but adding those components i was talking about will drive the price up but make it more reliable. lastly, this applies to ALL hp adders. poorly done boost will net the same results as poorly done nitrous.

[jeremy]

the actual quote is :

 

Cheap, reliable or fast......you can only pick two

[DaveFromColorado]

the actual quote is :

 

Cheap, reliable or fast......you can only pick two

 

that quote one makes more sense.

 

--Dave.

[J]

yeah i knew the quote, i love that quote, but i chose to modify it for this thread. Even though it stil would have worked if i used the enitre thing. Oh well

[GutlessSupreme]

Why don't you hook the N2O up to the HVAC system, and route it through the vents. Turn it on high during a race, and you'll win every time!!

 

I just had a flashback of Mel Gibson, and Danny glover stapping that chinese dude in the dentist chair...

 

"Flied lice you plick"

 

first thing I thought of too :lol:

[dbtk2]

This is my opinion on nitrous. If you want an extra boost of power for cheap then go ahead and use nitrous. You need to make sure you set it up properly and only run a shot (as was already said) that is ~25-35% of the power the engine makes. For you thats around a 50hp shot. However, every person that I ever know that has used nitrous, even properly, has problems down the road with their engine that was nitrous related that might not show up until after they quit using it. One of my very good friends in high school had (and still has) a '93 Z28. It had everything under the sun done to it, cam, heads, headers, intake, tb, etc..... The car ran VERY VERY well. He had a nitrous kit installed on it that was pretty much for track use (occasional street use but mostly track use). He ran a 125hp shot and obviously this made the car significatly faster. The engine didn't seem to have any problems taking this kind of abuse while he had the nitrous on it. He took the nitrous off the car because he quit taking it to the track (lost interest). About 5-6 months later the car started smoking sometimes, and last I knew it smokes pretty bad every time he gets on it. The engine is just worn out and tired, and IIRC it has like 72k on it.

 

The abuse that nitrous puts on the internals just weakens them and makes them more prone to failure. On a race car I see no reason not to use nitrous if you have it set up properly, chances are you are working on the engine a lot, can afford to replace it, and aren't relying on it to get you anywhere. In a daily driver I'd watch out.

 

Just my $.02.

[digitaloutsider]

I couldn't have said it any better.

[DaveFromColorado]

let's forget the car was used at the track (from what it sounds like, fairly often) or that it's aparent the car had been beaten on fairly hard, on a mostly regular basis. I mean, all those other power adders, and mod's couldn't have caused any damage it had to be just the nitrous.

 

those are the bullshit stories you hear all the time - only told by people who don't know what they are talking about - when people who know very little about Nitrous and it's proper uses read that, all they see is "he had nitrous once, and now he doesn't, but his car smokes now" Even when you do put in that information, those other parts get missed.

 

so when telling your story, don't forget to mention this car had the shit kicked out of it, and while he was running nitrous he had NO problems, but more then a half of a year after he stopped using the bottle, but continued to kick the shit out of the car, it devoleped unrelated problems, that YOU are trying to associate to the Nitrous.

 

I see that story, and it reaffirms that Nitrous is NOT bad for a car when properly tuned, but rather you can't beat on your car all the time, and expect it to last.

 

--Dave.

[chadz34]

let's forget the car was used at the track (from what it sounds like, fairly often) or that it's aparent the car had been beaten on fairly hard, on a mostly regular basis. I mean, all those other power adders, and mod's couldn't have caused any damage it had to be just the nitrous.

 

those are the bullshit stories you hear all the time - only told by people who don't know what they are talking about - when people who know very little about Nitrous and it's proper uses read that, all they see is "he had nitrous once, and now he doesn't, but his car smokes now" Even when you do put in that information, those other parts get missed.

 

so when telling your story, don't forget to mention this car had the shit kicked out of it, and while he was running nitrous he had NO problems, but more then a half of a year after he stopped using the bottle, but continued to kick the shit out of the car, it devoleped unrelated problems, that YOU are trying to associate to the Nitrous.

 

I see that story, and it reaffirms that Nitrous is NOT bad for a car when properly tuned, but rather you can't beat on your car all the time, and expect it to last.

 

--Dave.

Good point.

[dbtk2]

let's forget the car was used at the track (from what it sounds like, fairly often) or that it's aparent the car had been beaten on fairly hard, on a mostly regular basis. I mean, all those other power adders, and mod's couldn't have caused any damage it had to be just the nitrous.

 

those are the bullshit stories you hear all the time - only told by people who don't know what they are talking about - when people who know very little about Nitrous and it's proper uses read that, all they see is "he had nitrous once, and now he doesn't, but his car smokes now" Even when you do put in that information, those other parts get missed.

 

so when telling your story, don't forget to mention this car had the shit kicked out of it, and while he was running nitrous he had NO problems, but more then a half of a year after he stopped using the bottle, but continued to kick the shit out of the car, it devoleped unrelated problems, that YOU are trying to associate to the Nitrous.

 

I see that story, and it reaffirms that Nitrous is NOT bad for a car when properly tuned, but rather you can't beat on your car all the time, and expect it to last.

 

--Dave.

 

The car is driven very mildly on the street, it does not have the shit kicked out of it as you say. He probably drives it a total of 2k miles a year (has 5 other cars/trucks, including a '77 Impala with a built 383 that will walk all over the camaro so if he wants to beat the shit out of someting it would be that car he would do it to) and really doesn't beat on it except from time to time. When it had the nitrous on it he took it to the track and beat the shit out of it, but the reason he pulled the nitrous in the first place is because he lost interest in going fast and he just cruises in the car so no reason to keep filling a bottle when he doesn't really need it. He got into trucks and does offroading stuff now. I'm not saying I can prove the nitrous is what caused the problems with the engine, but he firmly believes, as well as the people that put all the stuff on his car, that the nitrous is what caused the damage to the engine. The engine has no other reason to really be stressed at all other than the nitrous because he only shifts it at 6k and without spining higher rpms the stuff he had done to the engine other than the nitrous really wouldn't cause the types of problems he is having.

[ShockTherapy]

*pssssssss....CLANK*

[DaveFromColorado]

let's forget the car was used at the track (from what it sounds like, fairly often) or that it's aparent the car had been beaten on fairly hard, on a mostly regular basis. I mean, all those other power adders, and mod's couldn't have caused any damage it had to be just the nitrous.

 

those are the bullshit stories you hear all the time - only told by people who don't know what they are talking about - when people who know very little about Nitrous and it's proper uses read that, all they see is "he had nitrous once, and now he doesn't, but his car smokes now" Even when you do put in that information, those other parts get missed.

 

so when telling your story, don't forget to mention this car had the shit kicked out of it, and while he was running nitrous he had NO problems, but more then a half of a year after he stopped using the bottle, but continued to kick the shit out of the car, it devoleped unrelated problems, that YOU are trying to associate to the Nitrous.

 

I see that story, and it reaffirms that Nitrous is NOT bad for a car when properly tuned, but rather you can't beat on your car all the time, and expect it to last.

 

--Dave.

 

The car is driven very mildly on the street, it does not have the shit kicked out of it as you say. He probably drives it a total of 2k miles a year (has 5 other cars/trucks, including a '77 Impala with a built 383 that will walk all over the camaro so if he wants to beat the shit out of someting it would be that car he would do it to) and really doesn't beat on it except from time to time. When it had the nitrous on it he took it to the track and beat the shit out of it, but the reason he pulled the nitrous in the first place is because he lost interest in going fast and he just cruises in the car so no reason to keep filling a bottle when he doesn't really need it. He got into trucks and does offroading stuff now. I'm not saying I can prove the nitrous is what caused the problems with the engine, but he firmly believes, as well as the people that put all the stuff on his car, that the nitrous is what caused the damage to the engine. The engine has no other reason to really be stressed at all other than the nitrous because he only shifts it at 6k and without spining higher rpms the stuff he had done to the engine other than the nitrous really wouldn't cause the types of problems he is having.

 

No other reason to be stressed... because aftermarket cams, heads, and other parts don't cause any additional stress on engines... right?

 

Let's ask some people. Let's take a general opinion poll...

 

question 1) When adding aftermarket parts to increase cylinder pressures, in an attempt to create more power, will you add more stress to an engine?

 

question 2) could these extra pressures cause premature failures?

 

--Dave.

[chadz34]

Well Dave, is NOS really worth it, I mean I can get it installed for cheap, so it'd be alittle more than 500 bucks. Do you think I should get more details from the guy?

[jeremy]

Well Dave, is NOS really worth it, I mean I can get it installed for cheap, so it'd be alittle more than 500 bucks. Do you think I should get more details from the guy?

 

I would actually do some research online and try to learn about what I was thinking about putting on my car before I would trust information from someone that is trying to sell me the item

[White93z34]

woulden't it make a ton more sense to do REAL mods to a car? so as you could enjoy it all the time rather then in small, expensive increments. without the increased rick of blowing your engine to smitherines on a daily driver.

 

or if you are head-set on doing this, why not do it to your Z34?

[Euro]

so....to recap......

 

 

getting nos to your stock 3.4 would the equivalent to going up to a baby and punching it in the face

 

fist=NOS

baby=3.4

pain=busted motor!!!