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Thermo-f'n-stat


ismellrealbad

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The temp gauge on mine was going crazy, shooting up to 260 then back down to 100, and anywhere in between thats why I mentioned that. But, I would do the thermostat first

 

Robby

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well removing that housing doesnt look like a 5 minute deal. that looks like something either my dad might be able to do or if not itll have to be taken in and if thats the case i dont have the time or money for a mechanic right now. how many turns of that screw would be loosening it? i dont wanna loosen it too much and then have that and shitloads of coolant flying up at me. well i could probably test how many turns first ebfore it gets hot so i dont have to worry about it. if it starts hissing what should i do?

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Guest Anonymous

If it starts hissing let it go until coolant starts coming out. Let it cool down and refill the radiator. Then do the same thing again. Keep doing it until no hissing is heard and nothing but coolant comes out when the screw is opened.

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well i dont even know wtf is wrong now! this is what i discovered today. i noticed the heat WILL come out warm if the car is in motion. if im sitting at a light or leaving the car idling - ice cold. If i set it to defrost or defrost and floor, the A/C compressor kicks in, which would explain why its ALWAYS cold when i have the defrost on. im telling you when this thing does hit 260 i pop the hood i can put my hand on the valve cover and its just warm. this temp guage is ALL over the place too, within the period of 1 min itll be anywhere from 190 to 260 and back and forth. it just doesnt make sense

 

Take your cap off and run the motor between 2k to 2500 RPM's. Wait for the thermo to open and see if any air comes out. The only downfall of purging air from the system this way is it can cause a mess, so have a garden hose or a bucket of water to rinse off the car. You gotta get that motor to burp the air out. It will not always do it when then system is pressurized. If you feel all the air is out and it still does it. Take the car to a reputable shop and have a dye test done. You could very well have a leaking head gasket. A little piece of advice; if you do have a leaking head gasket the dye will turn yellow. If you do this will cause the combustion gases to enter the cooling system and cause localized overheating. That will cause your guage to read erraticly. :) :)

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i opened the bleeder valve like brian said, i only did it for a couple mins but the whole time what youll see in this 12 sec clip is all it did (my camera will only take a short clip). i opened it one turn and it did what you see. i left it open for about a min at 2 turns and it just did that but hiss twice as hard n fast and only a few more spurts of coolant

 

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wODMxMzY2czQxM2RmZDMxeTU0MQ%3D%3D

damnit if that one doesnt work try this http://members.aol.com/isnellrealvad3/picture.avi

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My friend had the same problem with his truck and it ended up being the water pump. I would verify that it really is the pump first though before trying to replace it because this costs MUCH more than a temp sender or thermostat!

 

Hope you find out what's wrong... I know I didn't have heat for the first few weeks of winter and it was a real pain in the ass... especially @

-30C! But I replaced the thermostat and now all's well.

 

Andrew

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tons of white steam pouring out and quick short spurts of coolant

 

Dammit you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Do it again. Now. Like Turby said: keep doing it. I want all the air out by midnight tonight, then find out the last person who did service on the cooling system and kill him. Was it you? :evil: :twisted:

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Oh, also. Hopefully after you purged all the air out, it doesn't come back. Cause if air returns, you probably need head gaskets. Lets just hope for the best right now

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ill try it again tomorrow, hopefully i ll have like a half hour to myself (istead of 2 mins)(cuz thats how long it looks like its gunna take) and ill pick up a bottle of the orange stuff since ill prolly drain so much that itll want more than what i have in the reserve tank. this is also dripping right directly onto the exhaust manifold maybe thats whats causing half the smoke

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well the short spurts, even the long streams of coolant isn't much to lose, but have some extra coolant around. Just listen for the hissing. Heck, after you get the car to operating temp and the t-stat opens (hence the gauge drops to 190ish) shut the engine off and listen to the hissing. you should have most of the air out before all the pressure is down. put a couple rags around the bleeder valve so you dont have to smell burning coolant.

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fixed the problem. turns out my malfunctioning low coolant sensor which was unplugged when i baught the car wasnt malfunctioning. it was correct, since when i opened the radiator cap it looked bone dry, same with the reserve tank. i discovered this 5 minutes before i had to be at work so i had to go regardless of my discovery. i went and a break came and it died down but of COURSE i have NO parts stores even 15 mins from my work. i was forced to buy a bottle of dexcool from a local chevy dealership for $15!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i was so pissed. anyway i got back to work and of cousre no time to put it in. got another break, let the car cool, popped the cap and poured it in till full (bout a 1/4 bottle) and filled the reserve tank. put the cap on and started it and let it idle to temp. Bingo!! the temp guage acted completley normal, the heat was nice n blistering hot 100% of the time and the low coolant light was off, well for 5 mins. then after that it came off and on. i figured maybe now it all circulated theres room for more (since previously the sensor would display the light 100% of the time and not on/off). another break in buisness and let it cool and opened it again. poured about 2 cupfulls more in and then it was full again. the light does not come on at all now. i wonder if theres anyhting i can say or do to the dealer who sold me this car, because that was absurd. me n my dad r going to do a complete flush on sunday

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