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Posted

Ok my car as you all know is a 97 and has the 94+ stlye calipers, Heres the deal, I go to put my nice wheels on today and on a wim check my pad life. Then I noticed that the passenger side pads were worn down near to the metal, and the driver side pads were at half life. so I run and get some new pads, and replaced them, everything ok now ok? No, I drive not even 2 miles under normal city driving, and ther is smoke ROLLING off my back brakes, and it smells horrid, any help is appreciated.

 

Note> all sliders were free of corrosions and adequatley lubed before and after brake job

Note> when redid them, i turned the caliper pistons all the way in, then pumped the brakes to get them back to where they needed to be.

 

MY question is. Why are they staying on and getting my rotors that hot, not to mention more wear on one side than the other.

Posted

How old are the calipers?

 

Stupid question but did you take the sliders out, and completely lube everything

Posted

I have three theories about why this happens ... first is the brake lines get small cracks inside them and cause them to act as checkvalves allowing pressure in, but not out.

 

second is something inside the caliper causing this same issue

 

the third is either the metering block, perportioning valve, or whatever you want to call it that controls pressure to the rear brakes failing.

 

not sure how off the wall any of those sound, but they make sense in my head.

 

--Dave.

Posted

:iamwithstupid:

 

care to go into detail, or are you randomly going to post smilies that make no sense to the conversation at hand.

 

--Dave.

Posted

Like Dave said, it could be one of the lines, it could be on the calipers where the sliders are, BTW, were the sliders in good condition? or where there deep marks in them?

 

If you moved the piston and it came back, then I doubt its the piston since its moving ( somewhat freely )

 

Id check the lines, after that, look into the caliper, and all of the components.

Posted

Update, it was the calipers, got them replaced, and everything is ship shape

Posted

Yeah, even the 94-97 rear calipers will occasionally seize. It's why they went to separate park brake drums on the gen 2's and pretty much all GM's since have used the separate drum/disc design.

 

Posted

Yeah, even the 94-97 rear calipers will occasionally seize. It's why they went to separate park brake drums on the gen 2's and pretty much all GM's since have used the separate drum/disc design.

 

 

You mean where the ebrake is inside the "hat" of the rotor? I hate that design, solely because the ebrake shoes tend to sieze making the rotor a bitch to get off.

Posted

You mean where the ebrake is inside the "hat" of the rotor? I hate that design, solely because the ebrake shoes tend to sieze making the rotor a bitch to get off.

 

Yup. GM apparently thought that design was better, but yeah, the park brake shoes do tend to seize. GM fullsize trucks had that problem where the park brake would seize, but luckily it'd seize in a way where the p-brake wouldn't work, but the rear calipers would still be fine. I don't know about other newer GM's, but the GM fullsize trucks switched back to rear drums. GM seems to have a lot of trouble making a rear disc design that is problem-free.

 

Posted

:iamwithstupid:

 

care to go into detail, or are you randomly going to post smilies that make no sense to the conversation at hand.

 

--Dave.

 

Ouch dave..

 

Mostly that was agreeing with his reasoning.... But if I had to guess on the diagnosis on it, my money would have been with with the calipers themselves(because we all know the rear calipers on these cars are of the highest quality)... Not the perportioning valve, but with the calipers still having the ability to clamp down, and still having the ability to manually (elbow grease) them to the retrackted position, but under normal operation, they don't retract all the way probably due to a "slightly" jammed piston in the bore. If the boots are torn or ripped (even a small tear) dirt or a small pebble ,something like that could cause it to JUST get stuck enough that they could lock. Then when you go to retract them by hand... you have to turn them, thus unjarring any obstruction. It sounds farfetched... but it happed to my Fiero's rear right caliper.

 

Sorry for any frustration Dave.... Like I said, I was really just agree'ing with his thought process.

 

Also.... It is good to here it fixed.....

Posted

Intlcutlass ... I wasn't tryin' to so much pick on up, as I am frustrated because SO many people do that ... they'll put in a smily, but they won't say why they're using a smily like that.

 

when I see the one that says "I'm with stupid" to me at least, that says you're callin' me stupid, and stating that what I just wrote was a complete crock of shit.

 

I was offering a variety of information, and allowing him to decide which steps he would use to diagnose the problem. If he ruled out the calipers, he already had an idea where to look next, without having to get on the computer, ask again, and wait for an other response.

 

--Dave.

Posted

Intlcutlass ... I wasn't tryin' to so much pick on up, as I am frustrated because SO many people do that ... they'll put in a smily, but they won't say why they're using a smily like that.

 

when I see the one that says "I'm with stupid" to me at least, that says you're callin' me stupid, and stating that what I just wrote was a complete crock of shit.

 

I was offering a variety of information, and allowing him to decide which steps he would use to diagnose the problem. If he ruled out the calipers, he already had an idea where to look next, without having to get on the computer, ask again, and wait for an other response.

 

--Dave.

 

 

Not sure if I should put the smiley in there of the two kissing and making up, that might seem too sarcastic! LOL, But I see what you mean...

 

Seriously, I see what you mean....

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