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Engine Flush


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Posted

I would search for ths but the search is down..

 

I have decided to switch to synthetic so I need to do an engine flush.

 

I need to know what the best product would be and how long to run the car for?

Posted

Who said you need to do an engine flush when you switch to synthetic oil? Sounds like BS to me. :confused:

Posted

you do NOT need to flush when switching to Synthetic oil. If you want to flush it anyhow you want 3qt oil, 1qt kerosene, not the other way 'round, or you'll wash your bearings and smoke your motor

 

I've done DOZENS of kerosene flushes, always with good results - this would be a good time to clean your oil pan and change your oil pan gaskets.

 

Here's how I do my flushes...

 

I get 12 qts of CHEAP off-brand motor oil

4 qts of good motor oil

4 of the cheapest oil filters

1 good oil filter

4 qts of GOOD motor oil.

 

Change the oil like normal using the cheap oil and filter - add 1 qt of kerosene - start and idle for 5 minutes Repeat until all kerosene is used.

 

Once you've changed the oil 4 times with the kerosene flushing, change it one more time with the cheap off brand oil, idle it for 5 to 10 minutes with NO kerosene just clean cheap oil and a clean filter.

 

once that's done, change it one last time with the good oil, and good filter, start 'er up, and drive away.

 

do NOT drive your car witht he kerosene, remember, kerosene is a FUEL oil, it does burn.

 

Don't pour the kerosene into a hot engine, allow the engine to cool, if you don't ... well then you're just asking for problems.

 

--Dave.

Posted

or pay $100 to have someone use the Snap-On Motor-Vac, and have them put synthetic oil in when they are done

Posted

There's nothing wrong with those $5 engine flush in a can. Gunk, STP, all those brands do the same thing. I've done it many times of several vehicles without ever any issues at all. I drive the vehicle till the engine is hot, then add the flush, let it IDLE (don't rev) for 10min or so, then it drains all black and thin... I've heard it's not good to add it to hot engine (could possibly start fire?) but it doesn't say anything on the bottle and I've never even had smoke or anything.

Posted

it's better to do the engine flush when switching from conventional to synthetic, due to the build ups that may be there. it's just a good general rule of thumb I would say. it does no harm, so why not do it. I suggested it to him btw and told him to ask for other views to make a better educated decision :razz:

Posted

C-Bad's idea is a good one too, although, I never personally recomend adding it to a hot engine - I know the contents are flamable, and I don't want some new guy spilling some on his exhaust and burning down his car - that's what I always say to add to a cold engine.

 

I've never seen one start on fire from it, but hey, this is W-body.com I'd never seen a tracker burn down before either.

 

--Dave.

Posted

C-Bad's idea is a good one too, although, I never personally recomend adding it to a hot engine - I know the contents are flamable, and I don't want some new guy spilling some on his exhaust and burning down his car - that's what I always say to add to a cold engine.

 

I've never seen one start on fire from it, but hey, this is W-body.com I'd never seen a tracker burn down before either.

 

--Dave.

 

That is absolutely correct & a very good point we overlooked previously. When my dad and I did mine, we made sure the cutlass' engine was cold to the touch.

Posted

the only time i've ever had the need to flush an engine is when it gets so dirty, that the oil turns black the instant the oil is changed.

 

if your switching to synthetic, i'd just run some synth blend oil then switch over to full synthetic.

Posted
I've heard it's not good to add it to hot engine (could possibly start fire?) but it doesn't say anything on the bottle and I've never even had smoke or anything.

 

As long as you use a funnel I don't see how it's gonna spill on the exhaust. Even if it did spill a little bit on the manifold, all it would do is burn up and be real smokey, IMO. But do whatever you feel is safe.

 

 

Posted

i should also add, with any sort of engine flush, there is a chance of damageing your rings with it, since it is an anti-oil. so unless you really *need* to use it, i woulden't

Posted

Why the hell would anyone waste their time doing this?Change the oil to the new type...who said the engine needed flushing?If its that bad inside it needs to be torn down and or rebuilt.I think the flush is mental...a human THINKS it needs to be flushed out with some solvent...F that...just keep changing the oil on time and the engine will be fine.You need to know what exactly it is you wanna flush out...if theres alot of metals and etc in the oil,have a sample of oil sent to them labs that can break it down and tell you whats wrong.

 

:neutral:

Posted

http://www.google.com/search?num=100&hl=en&safe=off&as_qdr=all&q=Gunk+5+minute+motor+flush&spell=1

 

first thing that comes up (under the product search) says add to a cold engine.

 

I did see on your post C-bad where you said (could start a fire?) but the thing is, if you look on the bottle, it says "contents extremely flamable" and if you read the back of the can, it says add to a cold engine ... This is why I tell people to add the stuff to a cold engine. If you have an accidental spill, or let's just say your crankshaft is a little overheated due to warn bearings, you could have a flash inside your engine that would cause some serious damage, without you even knowing it. It'd rip the lead right off your bearings, and you'd be none the wiser for a few thousand miles, till you end up with a rod knock, and can't fully understand how it happened.

 

I'm not trying to be an ass here, but I thought I'd point out that I'd rather error on the side of caution and offer the advice to always add to a cold engine.

 

--Dave.

Posted

all this over synthetic? jeez, just change the synthetic in, change again in 2500, then repeat every 5K till you kill the car.

Posted

in the proper application the engine flush IS A good idea, i've used it before with good results.

 

i used some cheep NAPA brand knock off, and it worked wonders on our E-350 work van. the instructions on it said add to a warm engine, so i did. let it idle for about 10 minutes. and the worst black slimmey crap came out of the oil pan.

 

now remember this is the van that would turn brand new oil black on the first start after an oil change. since that flush its nice and goldenbrown still, and we have put some miles on it too boot.

 

if you have a decent clean running engine i'd not bother, waste of time, and you always run the risk of wipeing the rings. but for a poorly cared for, oily mess it sure does help.

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