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Driveshafts


Steve LS

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I'm doing my first bit of repair work on the 91 Regal. Dont have a W body manual. I'm wondering if theres anything special I need to know about pulling the driveshaft (drivers side). Igot as far as time to pull the hub but realized I need a larger puller. What Im wonder about is the four bolts that hold _ _ _ _ _ ? into the lower strut tower housing. Do I have to remove that piece or just float the lower ball joint and pull hub from shaft spindle. Also does the driveshafe just pry out of transaxle or is there something else that holds it there. I have manuals for H body and Riv /Toro but not the W .

 

Thank - Steve

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The hub is held on by the 4 bolts, accessible from the "inside" of the strut tower. 15mm, I located them by feel and it wasn't too hard, just spray the threads (visible with the wheel off) with a little bit of Liq wrench to get the brake dust off them. Have 2 of those stubby 2? inch extensions, put them together and it's a perfect length for the top bolts. The driveshaft just pulls out of the transmission, it could take a little effort but that's all there is to it. If I had to do it, I'd rather pull the hub than separate the balljoint and control arm from each other, but either way will work, and the spindle will have to be pushed out of the hub with both methods (with the puller)

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Thanks Brian thats what I was wondering. On the H body and Riv you have to float the ball joint. I thought that might be what that was made for, cool.

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On my Cutlass I just leave the hub on and drop the lower ball joint and swing the whole suspension out of the way. The CV shaft is held in by an internal lock ring, just use a prybar on the weight or a cv shaft puller to get it out.

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Separating the balljoint from the control arm is a pain, and use a pickle fork and risk damaging the boot which means you're buying a new balljoint.

 

The easiest way is actually to remove the hub first, but it's not much more difficult to just unbolt the hub and pop out the shaft. The reason removing the hub makes it easier is simply because it reduces weight and bulk of the assembly, but it's noit that difficult either way. The hardest part is popping the halfshaft out. It takes a good deal of force. For one side, I got a "C" shaped attachment for a puller that made it much easier. For the other side, I just had to use a pry bar. That was the PITA side.

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Thanks guys got it done Saturday. Easy job with a puller. I removed the four hub bolts. Thats definantly the way to go. Nice feature on W body. It was the drivers side and I used a pry bar on the big grooves cut into the coupling & against the frame. Now that I have the tools its about a 45 minute job including jacking and getting everything out and put back away. Never did a FWD driveshaft before. Worst thing was I didnt have the big 60?mm torx for the caliper. Cant believe I put it off for so long. Thanks again

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