Dark Ride Posted March 20, 2006 Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 Alright, I am currently in the process of tearing apart the interior. I plan on putting in an aftermarket Boost And Trans Temp Gauge in an A-pillar pod. I would like to replace the TGPs Instrument Cluster with that of a standard Grand Prix, that way I get rid of the lousy boost gauge on the dash and get the voltmeter in its place. Would this be insanely hard to do? I thought about putting a voltmeter in the guage pod but I really only want a dual guage pod, and I don't want two boost gauges. What do you guys think? Any one know how to do this? I already have a donor vehicle. Thanks in Advance, Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted March 20, 2006 Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 ohh, I dont know, man. I would probly keep it and maybe replace it with another tgp one if needed. just get a capacitor for your amp or some type of turbo timer with a voltmeter if your that worried about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ride Posted March 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 ohh, I dont know, man. I would probly keep it and maybe replace it with another tgp one if needed. just get a capacitor for your amp or some type of turbo timer with a voltmeter if your that worried about it. thats kinda what I figured, I was just thinking it would be cool to have the voltmeter on the dash. I'll probably just keep the TGP cluster unless someone knows of a way to do this without completely rewiring the car. Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted March 20, 2006 Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 I really dont think this would be that hard. Just find diagrams of each cluster's respective connector and change what you need to. I really think almost all of the pins will be the same. Its something to look into and I do agree with you, the factory boost gauges are crap, so why not get an in cluster voltmeter and then have an accurate boost gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one_fast_prix Posted March 20, 2006 Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 i also had thought about this in the past, because of the voltmeter, but also because my odometer is all fucked up. the trip odometer quit working altogether and the numbers displayed are all uneven, this is annoying and sometimes the actual odometer stops working. as far as the trip odm goes i took it out and when you press the button its supposed to catch in a notch in that white gear, my gears appear fine and when i realign in that notch it just pops back out, i wanted to get a whole odm/trip odm from the junkyard, this would fix both probs, but when i took one out to see if i could roll it back to my actual mileage on the car i screwed it all up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no1kicker Posted March 20, 2006 Report Share Posted March 20, 2006 I posted instrument cluster pinouts on here before, search for my posts and you will find them. The actual swapping of clusters will not take long and is pretty easy. I would miss the "INTERCOOLED TURBO" on the dash that I hope you have made light up at night... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ride Posted May 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 Well, here's what the 1990 manual says. Should be the same, but I really don't know. C1 - not used C2 - not used C3 - oil gauge input (tan) C4 - coolant temp gauge input (dk grn/wht) C5 - ign from INDIC fuse (pnk/blk) C6 - not used C7 - not used C8 - ground to fuel gauge sender (blk/wht) C9 - charge indicator (brn) C10 - left turn (lt blue) C11 - hi beams (lt grn) C12 - right turn (dk blue) C13 - fasten belts (yel) C14 - not used C15 - SES light (brn/wht) C16 - not used D1 - not used D2 - not used D3 - fuel gauge (ppl) D4 - vehicle speed input (dk grn) D5 - ign from INDIC fuse(pnk/blk) D6 - shift indicator (tan/blk) D7 - tach input (wht) D8 - ground to G103 (blk) D9 - illumination (gry) D10 - ign from cluster fuse (pnk/blk) D11 - not used D12 - not used D13 - not used D14 - brake indicator (tan/wht) D15 - anti-lock indicator (gry/wht) D16 - low coolant indicator (yel/blk) Thanks to No1Kicker for the pinouts Found the instrument cluster pinouts, C9 would be the one I need to add for the voltmeter then, right? I'm really new to rewiring clusters so i'm going to need some help. what do I need to do to make this work? Thanks, Mitch[br]Posted on: March 23, 2006, 10:38:57 PM_________________________________________________Okay, I Finally got the Turbo cluster electrical layout. There are only three differences, so far. C1 - Low Fuel Signal to HUD C2 - Check Gauges Signal To HUD C16 - Turbo Boost Gauge Signal So I don't need C16 since I'll no longer have a turbo gauge. So My question is does the Voltmeter just pickup its signal from C5 , D5 or D10, or does it pick it up from elsewhere? Also my electrical layout doesn't include the DIC, doesn't that get some type of signal from the cluster? Thanks, Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 Pick up a standard GP cluster for $10 from a salvage yard...plug it in and see what happens. I have a feeling it is the same...just the required other pins used to make the HUD and boost gauge get a signal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pontiac6KSTEAWD Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 I would say to make sure the guage unit came out of a car with HUD, as the return indicated wires C1 and C2 for the hud may not work the same without that. Not sure thou. If you are talking about the base model digital guage cluster, I would have doubts. If it is the regular GP guage cluster I would say it might work because thats how the other GP's with HUD came. So it would be cheaper for GM to have all the guage clusters of that style the same. Just my .02 Cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ride Posted May 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 Put my new non-turbo cluster in today, it worked just fine, but the check gauges and low fuel lights on the HUD do not light up any more . I figured that since my donor vehicle didn't have one either. My other question is that there is a two wire plug that comes off the turbo cluster but there isn't one on my cluster. Does anyone know what this does, I thought it might be for the DIC becuase my donor car didn't have one. I think I could solder it in without problems. Thanks, Mitch P.S. I'm in the process of modifying the original turbo cluster so I can keep the "INTERCOOLED TURBO" and just put the voltmeter in the corner, I will still have to swap circuit boards though. I will post some pics once I'm done if any one is interested on how to do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ride Posted June 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 UPDATE: I found out the two wire plug on top of the cluster is for the HUD C1 and C2, not quite sure how it works but it does. Got it soldered in place and it works fine. I also finished modifying the cluster so I can Keep the "Intercooled Turbo" Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 So you now have a voltmeter and Intercooled Turbo cluster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ride Posted June 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2006 Yup its Awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted June 2, 2006 Report Share Posted June 2, 2006 Right on man! Cool! Pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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