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My 1st Lumina :) Euro 3.4 '93


warwgn3

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Hey Guys,

 

My brother found this site for me, so I thought I should sign up and introduce myself, and my W-Body. The Name is Doug, and the car is a '93 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.4. I was on the forum at http://www.wbodysource.com, but I find that they're kind of in-active for the most part, so I thought I should try here.

 

Sorry if I posted in the wrong section but I have a lot of questions and thought it would be better to generally ask them here instead of asking exterior lighting Q's in the engine section or any questions at all in the Members Rides section.

 

Although the Lumina is My 1st W-Body (I *just* got it, still have to licence it!), I'm no stranger to them. My Grandfather had a 1996 3.1L, and a 1999 3100 Pontiac Grand Prix SE. Both were 4-doors without the rear spoilers. You can see them in the web page I have that lists my family's past and present vehicular fleet.

 

My Lumina is "well used", but is in fair shape. It just needs some brake work and some minor fixits to pass a safety, but I'm confident it will serve me well for a few years to come.

 

I do have a few questions I want to ask, I've dug deep through the pages but I'm just looking for some general tips and things to look for on the DOHC 3.4L (LQ1 right?), for instance is this engine an interference engine or not? Also where can I find the paint code? I found the RPO codes but there are a few here that are not listed.

FE9 IKD OSH R7K Z31 41V 6PY 7PY

 

The seller mentioned that it needs a TPS as it just started stalling recently as you're driving and sometimes is difficult to restart without modulating the gas pedal a little. I read on here that it could be either the crank sensor or the injectors but this only just started happening last year and was never a problem before. My brother checked the TPS with a scan tool and it is working perfectly fine, it has a perfectly smooth curve with no spikes or dropouts so I am certain it is not that. No codes are set right now.

 

Also I would like to know where is the sensor that turns the radiatior fans on, in relation to the sensor that sends to the temp gauge on the dash. At what temperature should the radiator fans come on? My brother had a scanner plugged in under the dash and it said the coolant temp was 23°C (slowly rising) while the dash gauge sat at half way (this was after running for 15 minutes. The upper rad hose was hot and was bled so I am sure it was not an airlock. The reason I ask is the car sat over the winter and when it was started up for the first time, the fans did not come on and it overheated. :shock: Turning the A/C on forced the fans on and brought the engine temperature back down (phew!), but I have not seen the fans run on their own since. I have topped the coolant back up but I would like to know how long I should wait before I can say, "ok the fan sensor is not working".

 

My brother was just out there running the engine again and had the scanner plugged in monitoring everything. He noticed that the coolant sensor never went above 28°C even though it had been running for 20 minutes. He used his infrared themometer and the top hose was showing 180°F and the radiator near the rad cap was showing around 120-140°F, so if the coolant sensor is directly below the rad cap in that end tank, well I'm pretty sure it's not working. :?

 

Is there a minimium ambient temperature for the A/C to come on? It was -2°C outside just now and when my brother tried to force the cooling fans to come on with the A/C it would not come on, but they did come on when I picked the car up (it was about 10°C that day, pretty darned nice out actually).

 

He also noticed that while it is sitting in park if you try to rev the engine, the engine will stumble (bog?) before it revs. Like say he taps the gas down, the engine will go from idle (1000rpm) and drop to about 500, before VROOM it goes up like it should. Suggestions?

 

Also I took the front sidemarker lights off and noticed that it appears to include a large lamp housing for cornering lights, but with no place to put a bulb! Looks like they changed their minds? I would like to put a turn signal bulb in there to be seen better from the side. I know the little peanut bulb flashes but it would be nice to have better. Are there other corner lamps that have those sockets in them that would fit? I remember seeing a picture of a Lumina that had side signal lights like that.

 

One more thing. I know I'm going to get scolded for saying this, but my Lumina is equipped with a class 1 Trailer Hitch, and I intend to put that hitch to use. I will be towing a small 1-person pop-up tent camper on a 900 km road trip to Hell Michigan for a car show in June. The car DOES already have a large tranny oil cooler on it. What I do need are a set of removeable towing mirrors. Does anyone know where I can get a set of Removeable Towing Mirrors that fit on the 1st Genteration Lumina? I prefer the kind that clamps on the fenders between the wheel arches and hood, but will consider anything else. Just so you know, I do have a pair of mirrors that I used for my old 85 Parisienne wagon, but I have already tried to fit them to the Lumina. They don't fit at all.

 

In the meantime, I'm just going to lurk, and learn all I can about my Lumina, as I'm still kinda used to driving huge B-Body Station Wagons.

 

Here's a few links that lead to some pics of my Lumina.

 

http://www.stillruns.com/land-barge/Picture001.jpg

http://www.stillruns.com/land-barge/Picture002.jpg

http://www.stillruns.com/land-barge/Picture003.jpg

http://www.stillruns.com/land-barge/Picture004.jpg

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How much did you pay for it?? The coolant temperature sensor is located on the drivers side of the lower intake manifold. I'm pretty sure you have to remove the plenum to get at it. The left quarter panel looks pretty rotten....hopefully it's not too rusty to pass safety.

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How much did you pay for it?? The coolant temperature sensor is located on the drivers side of the lower intake manifold. I'm pretty sure you have to remove the plenum to get at it. The left quarter panel looks pretty rotten....hopefully it's not too rusty to pass safety.
I paid $1,000 CAD for it as is, with 246,000 kms. I saw underneath the car, rust will not be a problem for safety other than one small spot inside the right rear pass door rocker. Not too worried about safety at this point.

 

What is the sensor that is in the rad directly below the rad cap then? There are wires going to it.

 

If I have to pull the plenum (how difficult is that, are there coolant lines through it?) then I will check the car's history to see when the plugs were last changed. Maybe if they are cheap enough I will upgrade the injectors to the later version. I don't think that was done yet. I really just want to get the car on the road first and make sure it is ok before I spend lots to fix the just annoying stuff.

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No, non interference. Even the 96-97 still haven't even been determined to be interference. It just seems though that all of the newer ones blow at a higher rpm, causing the bent valves.

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Well that's good to know.

 

The car didn't come with an owners manual. How often should the timing belt be changed? I checked the history and saw it was changed at 160 000 kms (100,000 miles). That means I should have a while to go before the next change at least. Is that right?

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welcome!!! nice past owned cars! You had alot of the GM wagons! We had 3 in my lifetime(20 years) late 70's(79 i think) pontiac parisienne, 84 Buick Electra, and 87 Caprice..

 

 

 

and nice turbo caravan 8)

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RPO Codes:

 

FE9 = Federal emissions

IKD = Couldn't find. Are you sure you copied it down right?

OSH = PLANT CODE OSHAWA, ONT, CANADA

R7K = Control Sales Item

Z31 = Advanced Price Sheet (Window sticker)?

41V = This is most likely a trim/color code.

6PY = Ditto.

7PY = Ditto.

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Wow look at all the old B-bodies!!!

 

 

Welcome aboard. I don't know much to the questions you've posed but fellow members will help out to the best of their knowledge. Patience is the key :D

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Also I took the front sidemarker lights off and noticed that it appears to include a large lamp housing for cornering lights, but with no place to put a bulb! Looks like they changed their minds? I would like to put a turn signal bulb in there to be seen better from the side. I know the little peanut bulb flashes but it would be nice to have better. Are there other corner lamps that have those sockets in them that would fit? I remember seeing a picture of a Lumina that had side signal lights like that.

 

i've always wondered if they had originally planned on putting cornering lamps there

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Geeze, that was a solid first post :thumb:

 

My timing belt on my past z34 snapped twice at normal speeds, at 2,000-2,200 RPM. Both times the valves were not damaged...the car ran fine.

 

If you want, I'm sure there is a way to accually make a marker lense yourself. Its just a plastic shell, that you could prolle drill out, and custom make a harness to hold a bulb in there. Obviously splice into the current relay for your blinkers, and it might look decent.

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welcome the board ....I raped a Euro3.4 just like that at a j/y for some parts recently !!

Really? where abouts? I could use a few parts myself. My dash pad on the top is curling up off the plastic moulding from the windshield, and looks kind of nasty. I'm not sure if glue will even keep it down, so I have to decide whether to try and fix it or just replace it with a dash pad thats in better shape. I'm also missing the master window switch cover on the drivers door, so I'll need one of those.

 

I don't really want to go to the junk yard here, as they'll rip you right off. I remember I needed a rim for my old 89 Buick Electra wagon, and they charged me $65 CDN for a used rusted rim. I then found out that I could have gotten a new one at Wal-Fart for $30 CDN. I couldn't believe they wanted $75 for an interior door panel for my old 85 Parisienne wagon! It kind of peeves me off, cause that yard is the closest to where I live, but they're so expensive. The other thing that sucks is that cheapest yard is 50 Kms away, and its hard to justify using up the gas to drive all the way out there and get the part you need.[br]Posted on: March 24, 2006, 12:35:57 PM_________________________________________________[br]Posted on: March 24, 2006, 12:27:47 PM_________________________________________________

If you want, I'm sure there is a way to accually make a marker lense yourself. Its just a plastic shell, that you could prolle drill out, and custom make a harness to hold a bulb in there. Obviously splice into the current relay for your blinkers, and it might look decent.
I'll definately try it. I'm actually thinking if there is a way to make the corner signals flash opposite from the grille singals, so that when I put my hazard flashers on, it would look like some kind of fake under cover cop car or something. But I'm just wondering if doing that would actually look cool, or just dumb.

 

Another thing I'd like to do is disable the daytime running lights. I've always hated DRL's, and think they're kind of pointless. They're usesless in the daytime, cause you can clearly see and be seen without them, and if somebody doesn't know enough to turn on their main headlights at night, they shouldn't be driving. I think that if the driver wants to have the headlights on in the daytime, they should be able to turn them on themselves without the car doing it for them, and not having the choice.

 

I'm actually wondering if there is a way to switch the DRL system so that it runs the clearance/marker lights instead of the headlights, cause not only do I think it looks cool, but I always drive with only my marker lights on as soon as its light enough out to see without headlights.

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the black euro 3.4 is in a junkyard about a half hour from me...the parts that you mentioned though can be found on almost any normal lumina, nothing is really Euro3.4 specific

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