Garrett Powered Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 vet props! thanks for protecting us in desert storm! any more help you need no matter how small of question, just ask. I am helping a buddy of mine with his system for free cause he's cool and he needs help because he's in a chair. lost use of legs in desert storm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted March 24, 2006 Report Share Posted March 24, 2006 I like my rear 6x9 Kenwood speakers as well....and for me, the bass is good with the deck power only. The only problem is the speakers are rattling in the bracket, so this summer I need to drill some holes into the metal and bolt them directly to the rear plate instead of that weak ass metal bracket used in Luminas and other first gens?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted March 24, 2006 Report Share Posted March 24, 2006 I dont have a metal bracket, I have a plastic mold that it bolts on to... Keeps on stripping too. But a good bead of silicon down. Might it out a little bit if were on the same page. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted March 24, 2006 Report Share Posted March 24, 2006 that powered audiobahn sub that you ordered should sound pretty damn nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pontiac6KSTEAWD Posted March 24, 2006 Report Share Posted March 24, 2006 I think with the money you had, it was either buy an amp, and power your whole system, or do what you did. And since you are on a budget, what you did is just fine... Good luick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted March 25, 2006 Report Share Posted March 25, 2006 Deff let us know how it sounds once you get everything set up. Shouldnt sound bad at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wmebert Posted March 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2006 I installed my 10" Audiobahn powered subwoofer today. It was a fairly easy install & Audiobahn supplied everything needed to do the hook-up. I'm still getting it "tuned in" but I must say I am pretty happy. It doesn't provide glass shattering, ground shaking bass but it definitely makes up for the bass my system was missing. I like the fact that I can listen at a somewhat normal volume and adjust the bass to my liking. I ended up ordering 4" Audiobahn 2-way speakers for the upper-door panel & Kicker 4"x6" speakers for the lower door panel. I went with these speaker choices due to their affordability. I figured the stock speakers are 14 years old so anything has to be an improvement. They won't be here until Monday though. My total cost for everything was right at about $550. Not too bad considering everything I added. So for anyone just wanting to add some bass to there bass-less system I'd say go with the Audiobahn set-up. If your looking to shake the ground, anger your neighbors & set off car alarms buy a big amp & a couple of 12" subwoofers.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted March 27, 2006 Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 I installed my 10" Audiobahn powered subwoofer today. It was a fairly easy install & Audiobahn supplied everything needed to do the hook-up. I'm still getting it "tuned in" but I must say I am pretty happy. It doesn't provide glass shattering, ground shaking bass but it definitely makes up for the bass my system was missing. I like the fact that I can listen at a somewhat normal volume and adjust the bass to my liking. I ended up ordering 4" Audiobahn 2-way speakers for the upper-door panel & Kicker 4"x6" speakers for the lower door panel. I went with these speaker choices due to their affordability. I figured the stock speakers are 14 years old so anything has to be an improvement. They won't be here until Monday though. My total cost for everything was right at about $550. Not too bad considering everything I added. So for anyone just wanting to add some bass to there bass-less system I'd say go with the Audiobahn set-up. If your looking to shake the ground, anger your neighbors & set off car alarms buy a big amp & a couple of 12" subwoofers.... good to see you got something thats good enough for you. I dont know about shake the ground, but a couple grand dumped all into 1 speaker and 1 amp can make the people in the car in front of you stick their fingers in their ears and shake their heads. Its enough to make glass flex and sheetrock in the walls to rattle. probly couldnt shatter glass :eek:that would be impressive. when I drive into the garage and open the door, the trap door to the attic will just bounce and rattle in the ceiling. The neighbors are cool about it. I never turn it up too much at a time while parked in 1 spot cause for 1 thing it kills the batteries and also it will knock shit off the shelves inside and scare people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwingvksm Posted March 27, 2006 Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 Nicely done man! Good to hear!! Personally I'm getting ready to get some 1000/1 JL audio amps (3 of them) and 3 13W7's from JL audio too (With some 'special' batteries (They are like Caps - but 100x better) and a HUGE alt to help power all that! Good to hear that you got your setup though man - nice job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted March 28, 2006 Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 Nicely done man! Good to hear!! Personally I'm getting ready to get some 1000/1 JL audio amps (3 of them) and 3 13W7's from JL audio too (With some 'special' batteries (They are like Caps - but 100x better) and a HUGE alt to help power all that! Good to hear that you got your setup though man - nice job! Are tou talking about Stinger batt caps? They probably wont have enough reserve to power 3 1000/1 amps. You probably need a deepcycle to back each one. They put out like 1200 watts or more at 1/2 ohm and that will drink a RV deepcycle fully charged brand new in like 10 minutes if on full blast. With a dub-7 it will pull enough amps to clip the breaker in like 30-45 minutes WITH the alt charging FULL output. of course you can turn down the volume a couple notches and enjoy nice rich dynamic bass for hours. I dont know if you could rig it up to work with 3 1000/1s unless you used an ott cable straight off the alt post and to the batt cap in the trunk. THEN run a 4 gauge back up to the AUX post under the hood. might be enough to power the engine electronics and like 1 accessory. I would consider this on a car meant for competition, not for daily driving. In my car, engine performance and drivability with full accessory power is primary and bass is secondary. Obviously 3 dubyas is bass primary, so the cars performance is secondary, and the alts primary function is to keep the amps juiced. Yea I think it can be done with some trickery and a cs-130-D. the batt cap can take the abuse, but will the fuel pump and coil packs take the torture you will be putting them through and stay reliable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted March 28, 2006 Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 I think hell be better off with the 170amp alt, "Big 3" with 0g wire and like two or 3 yellow/red tops. I dont see you needing any caps, if you add batteries, but if you dont wanna add the other batteries, then youll need a good cap. Just wire the batteries in series, and youll be set. This will give you more than enough to run everything on your car with no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted March 28, 2006 Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 I think hell be better off with the 170amp alt, "Big 3" with 0g wire and like two or 3 yellow/red tops. I dont see you needing any caps, if you add batteries, but if you dont wanna add the other batteries, then youll need a good cap. Just wire the batteries in series, and youll be set. This will give you more than enough to run everything on your car with no problem. We are talking about a battery that performs like a cap. or a non- deepcycle, for quick bursts with quick recharge, , of course you want ott gauge, youre trying to flood the amps with power straight off the alt. Is it yellow or red you say? red is like a batt cap, and yellow is for storage. a batt cap is like an extreme red top and is used for competition set ups, not for daily drivers. which is his choice to make. either one will power everything he got with no problem. cutlass, check out stingers website and you will see their batt cap, gel cells and other products. They are not the only way to go, I have no stinger products at all. just look at what GM puts in newer cars and thats usually the longest lasting under extremities, aftermarket usually takes second to upgraded factory parts. and since AC Delco DROPPED their line of gel cells, that throws a red flag. and a 170 amp alt? be specific and tell us more, is it a internally cooled cs-130-d "new style" or a stinger model, or an old turd 170 amp cs-130 with external fan known to overheat and not charge at idle? without detail, nobody knows what the hell you are saying! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted March 29, 2006 Report Share Posted March 29, 2006 well first my bad since I mistake your last post Delco-Remy CS-130D type 170 Amp Standard Internal Regulator Alternator; its a CS-130-D but they say it has improvments such as More open design for better air flow Larger bearings Dual Internal Fans to increase air volume Regulator and Rectifier located on the outside, away from stator and rotor heat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted March 29, 2006 Report Share Posted March 29, 2006 Thanks for the feedback on that, they are bad ass alternaters. and its not that hard to upgrade to one if you are stuck with the old 130. There is no part # to cross reference for older GMs so if you want all the advantages the newer style has to offer, just get a good alternater shop to go through their parts bin and line up the case with the bracket and grind down the pivot housing. Cutlass, can you explain how the cables route and gauges necessary off the alt, and to the aux. post and amp? I would like to know if its possible to run that much power to the trunk and still have 1 battery stay fully charged under the hood... Honestly I did not believe it was possible with the stock charge wire if you had it turned up full blast and hitting super low bass for a while,really pushing the amp to its limits. What sub(s) do you got anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted March 29, 2006 Report Share Posted March 29, 2006 Well with that 170amp alt, Id be going with 0/1 gauge wire for a "Big 3" ( Positive on battery to alt. Positive on battery to AUX. Negative on battery to ground. Ground above radiator to ground engine block by the dogbone. ) All of that is done in addition to the stock wiring. Then depending how the current draw of your amp, or how many watts it is will determine the gauge wire needed to run from the battery to the amp. Now of course youll need a decent battery to go along with the wires and alt as well. But if your amp(s) need that much amps then run 0/1 gauge wire from the battery to the trunk. I have two 13Ov.2's from Elemental Designs in a ported box, 30Hz tune. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 Well with that 170amp alt, Id be going with 0/1 gauge wire for a "Big 3" ( Positive on battery to alt. Positive on battery to AUX. Negative on battery to ground. Ground above radiator to ground engine block by the dogbone. ) All of that is done in addition to the stock wiring. Then depending how the current draw of your amp, or how many watts it is will determine the gauge wire needed to run from the battery to the amp. Now of course youll need a decent battery to go along with the wires and alt as well. But if your amp(s) need that much amps then run 0/1 gauge wire from the battery to the trunk. I have two 13Ov.2's from Elemental Designs in a ported box, 30Hz tune. When I said to not add to the stock wiring I meant that the stock charge wire on my car was not needed and probably got hot as hell when it was doing all the work. I am in the process of replacing all relays, fusible links, grounds, because acid rain here and hot summers along with the fact my car is almost 20 years old here soon with almost 180 k miles on it. normal maintenance actually, I plan on going 250 k at least, one guy put 350 k miles on a tgp so I know the 3.1 can do it in the long run. ...just so you stop saying that. stock wiring is .......nevermind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puggsley456 Posted March 31, 2006 Report Share Posted March 31, 2006 I now have a stock alternator with the big three in 4 guage with a redtop and a 2 farad capacitor. Running my 1000rms. And with my system running test tones at 3/4 volume I only drop .8 volts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted March 31, 2006 Report Share Posted March 31, 2006 I now have a stock alternator with the big three in 4 guage with a redtop and a 2 farad capacitor. Running my 1000rms. And with my system running test tones at 3/4 volume I only drop .8 volts. Thats quite a bit actually. depending on how long of a time interval you are talking and a few more variables like Hz level (10-20 Hz sweeps or 80-100 hz) the lower notes can consume exponentially more power because of extreme excursion at high volumes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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