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95 GP speakers- edit- WIRING DIAGRAMS PICS FROM SERV MANUAL


THe_DeTAiL3R

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EDIT: FOR PICS FROM SERVICE MANUAL LOOK AT POST BELOW

 

I got some Infinity REF9012 rear speakers....

 

Getting the old speaker out was fun :roll:

But I'm not done installing yet....

 

 

There are 4 wires that go to the factory 6x9 speakers...

 

2 go to the woofer, and 2 to the tweeter on them. I tried wiring up to the 2 speakers that run to the woofer, but it's just low frequency.

 

There has to be a crossover or something, but WHERE???

 

 

I am running these off a Kenwood HU by the way...

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Heres some pics:

 

I thought the speaker had a grill on top, but no... that was part of the cone :lol:

IMG_2244.jpg

 

 

Bottem of Delco speaker

IMG_2245.jpg

 

Connector on the tweeter side...

IMG_2253.jpg

 

Connector FROM the woofer side (now on JBL test speaker) ... only low frequencey

IMG_2248.jpg

 

This pic is of a harness you can buy to solder on your aftermarket speaker (plug and play)

MET724568_1.jpg

 

 

Looks like I might have the harnesses backwards?

 

The connections on both sides of the Delco speaker go into the magnet/voice coil area, and there is also a small capacitor right under the tweeter that you can't see in the pic...

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Thats not a capacitor, that is a low pass filter. It removes the low tones so it doesnt blow the tweets. If you hooked it up to the woofer wires, it shoulda worked. Worked on my car that I sold that had that... I guess follow the wires back a ways to see if you find some sort of channel spliter under your rear dash pad, but i doubt you will.

 

Try the other set of wires and see what happens?

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There is not crossover. The two wires that power the woofer run from a factory amp that is some place in the dash. It's under the steering column on mine...

 

Dunno how you would wire them up. I know the woofer wires are 4 ohm, and the tweeters are 12 ohms on mine. :shock:

 

Those look a bit different then my factory DVC speakers too. Mine doesn't have a bass blocker for tweeter. :?

 

FWIW, I have the signal for my sub hooked up to the woofer side.

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I edited my original post because it would sound more difficult than what it need to be.

 

Just run new lines from the back of your headunit to your 6x9's and be done with it.

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well I tried the other wires... nothing

Did NOT feel like running wires from the HU to the rear for minimal power....

 

So I said fuck it, we'll do it MY way then!!! LOL

 

PROBLEM SOLVED HAHA

problem+solved+lol.JPG

 

 

Heres my messy stack of amps (800w on the top for the sub)

IMG_2263.JPG

 

Messy trunk

IMG_2264.JPG

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Time for you to build a nice amp rack.

 

Need some ideas? :wink:

 

yes! lol

 

I'm gonna have a 3rd amp coming soon! (for the front components)

 

Wish I just had the 800w for the sub, and a 4ch for the front/rear... oh well.

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Alright heres what's in the service manual (not that it matters now, but usfull info anyways)

 

 

UQ3 - SPEAKER SYSTEM, PERFORMANCE ENHANCED AUDIO (what I have)

http://www.wbodysource.com/Gallery/d/849-1/UQ3+premium+radio.JPG

 

UX7 (regular radio)

http://www.wbodysource.com/Gallery/d/852-1/UQ7+regular+radio.JPG

 

radio harness 1

http://www.wbodysource.com/Gallery/d/843-1/radio1.JPG

 

radio harness 2

http://www.wbodysource.com/Gallery/d/846-1/radio2.JPG

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Well, you could build walls in your trunk, and do a flush mount on the amplifier walls, that way you can hide all the wiring behind the walls.

 

If not, make a slanted rack for your 3 amps. Basicaly, just a stand with 3 slanted racks. Easiest and looks decent. Plus, you can hide the wiring underneath the boards.

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oh no whats so hard about taking the rear 6x9's out i have the exact same car and im doing mine tomarrow what the process to take them out with out distroying them

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1. Take rear seat bottem out completely

2. Remove bolts for back of rear seat (you can work with it in the car, or remove it completely)

3. If you have the metal hook thing (for baby seats?) undo that, cause it holds the carpet down

4. Pop out the speaker grilles (pull towards you and they pop right out)

5. In the trunk you will see 2 metal "tabs" holding the speaker bracket, pinch it with plyers and push it up, then the plastic tabs will come up with it (at this point the speakers w/ bracket will be loose)

6. Undo wire harness(s) to the speakers

7. Inside the car, lift up the carpet on the rear deck and pull the speakers out.

 

8. I used needle-nose pliars to losen the bolts, cause I didn't have socket that was skinny enough to go around- and losen the bolts for the speakers to the plastic bracket. When you losen them up enough you should be able to put a socket around to get them out quicker now. Doing it with the needlenose pliars (or REALLY thin sockets) are the only way you'll get the bolts off the bracket, otherwise you can just take apart the old speaker and drop a socket on...

 

I used some different screws instead of the factory ones (so I could use a screwdriver instead of a stupid socket) and it was a tigher fit than stock, but still managed to get them in there.

 

Now you can install your new speakers...

 

Looks completely stock with the new speakers in. :) You probably wanna reuse the stock grilles cause the speakers sit pretty low and aftermarket grills would look kinda gay, IMO.

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i think this has been covered before. i'm almost positive i went through this with someone else trying to replace their factory speakers with aftermarket.

 

anyhow, your setup seems to be a bit diferent from what i'm sued to seeing. by any chance does your car have a blose system? i've never seen one, but i was talking to a guy that said some of our cars had them. the wiring was similar at the amp, i think, but there were other dissimilarities.

 

anyhow, what exactly did you do with the amp? is it just amplifying your subwoofer signal from the factory amp or the midrage/tweeter signal from the amp?

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I still don't think there is an amp.. :shrug:

Pretty sure my headunit was powering the speakers, however they are wired I dunno but the factory harness didn't have any issues..

 

No Bose... this is how it looked STOCK. Just a regular tape deck w/EQ and radio controls on the steering wheel...

 

It's the UQ3 system (check my post above for pics)

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v142/canadianbadass2k/1995%20GP%20SE/abd8407b.jpg

th_abd8407b.jpg

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well if you take off your cluster/radio bezel and look below where your lighter is you'll know if there is an amp or not. it'll be right about level with your hvac unit.

 

i don't think you can have dvc rear speakers without the factory amp. the amp is what provides the subwoofer signal to the woofer coil on the rear speakers. i'm not sure whether the other coil is mid/high range or full range, though.

 

and i meant what signal is your kenwood amp amplifying?

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i don't think you can have dvc rear speakers without the factory amp. the amp is what provides the subwoofer signal to the woofer coil on the rear speakers. i'm not sure whether the other coil is mid/high range or full range, though.

 

 

Actually, if you un-plug the sub wires from the speaker, the main cone still will move and produce sound...just with a lot less balls. So I assume the other wires are a full range signal.

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i don't think you can have dvc rear speakers without the factory amp. the amp is what provides the subwoofer signal to the woofer coil on the rear speakers. i'm not sure whether the other coil is mid/high range or full range, though.

 

 

Actually, if you un-plug the sub wires from the speaker, the main cone still will move and produce sound...just with a lot less balls. So I assume the other wires are a full range signal.

 

I tried the other wires.... there was NO sound. I dunno. Doesn't matter now cause I got them nice and loud! :lol:

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so does anyone know how to avoid running a line directly from your head unit? Does anyone Know the Proper Hook ups that can be done in the back? i thought all you needed was the two seperate positives to the new speaker positive and the same for the negative but obviously thats wrong cause he said it didnt work Ahhh dam complications

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okay i just went to best buy and found out thatyou need to bypass the amp so direct wire from head unit. so tomarrow im going to hook it up and ill take pictures of the factory amp and all that other stuff so i can help someone else who might need it.

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