Timm Posted March 3, 2009 Report Share Posted March 3, 2009 I put my pads in and one shattered... Well, a giant chip felw off of it and almost hit me. about fingernail sized. and also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted March 4, 2009 Report Share Posted March 4, 2009 that's a first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ns87 Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 Fun fact, I have 2 monoleaf pads stacked on top of each other on each side. The rear is still low Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted March 6, 2009 Report Share Posted March 6, 2009 Fun fact, I have 2 monoleaf pads stacked on top of each other on each side. The rear is still low How the heck did you get THAT to fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP4U2NV Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 I installed these last night. Took 10 minutes a side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted May 15, 2009 Report Share Posted May 15, 2009 went to my buddies shop the other day and he was completely baffled by them. he even swapped out a monoleaf for me in the past so he knows how to do it. I never have done one so I don't know. he was like "look there is no way! wanna try?" because I was like its easy, just pound it in with a hammer. thats what everyone is doing, takes like 10 minutes. He just laughed and I said never mind and left. Oh well, I think I am just going to get some kyb gr2 struts and install my birchmount 2" drop steel spring all at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted May 15, 2009 Report Share Posted May 15, 2009 went to my buddies shop the other day and he was completely baffled by them. he even swapped out a monoleaf for me in the past so he knows how to do it. I never have done one so I don't know. he was like "look there is no way! wanna try?" because I was like its easy, just pound it in with a hammer. thats what everyone is doing, takes like 10 minutes. He just laughed and I said never mind and left. Oh well, I think I am just going to get some kyb gr2 struts and install my birchmount 2" drop steel spring all at the same time. That's what I'm saying... I had to remove the monoleaf spring, and chisel off EVERY trace of the old rubber end mount before those pucks even came close to sliding in... Even after all that, I think I had to lightly grind some of the puck material off before it sat in the knuckle correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted December 16, 2010 Report Share Posted December 16, 2010 (edited) I acknowledge that this is an old thread, but the title is perfect for future searches...and it's how "I" found it. Thought I'd show you how I installed the aftermarket nylon pads. Took two hours to stare into space "inventing" the tool, actually fabricating the tool, and driving to the hardware store for fully-threaded bolts. Took about ten minutes per side to actually install the plastic pads once I had the vehicle ('93 Lumina) lifted up with the wheels hanging free. The first set of nylon pads I looked at were absolutely destroyed when we opened the package at the local NAPA. Someone had tried to install them, brutalized them beyond belief and then PUT THEM BACK IN THE BOX AND RETURNED THEM TO THE STORE. If you're a Total Moron and live in the Seasonally Frozen Wastelands, you're probably my down-the-street neighbor. Good thing my local NAPA had two sets in stock. I left with the second set. Spring compressor tool requires: 24" of channel steel, cut 10" (two pieces) and the remainder is 4". Ten inches is a bit longer than absolutely needed; but the extra length doesn't interfere--and maybe makes this tool useful on some other vehicle. Four 1/2-13 nuts. All nuts are welded to channel steel, but the nut on the smallest piece has the threads removed by running the 1/2" drill bit through it before welding it to the channel--it just pops over the end of the bolt but does not thread onto it. That nut just prevents the small piece from sliding out of position. Two 1/2-13 X 6" bolts One 1/2-13 X 3" bolt The short bolt pictured can be cut down, it is inconveniently long. One ~1/8 drill bit to make pilot holes for the 1/2 drill bit One 1/2" drill bit to make 5 holes and remove the threads from one nut 3/8" or 1/4" drill motor for pilot bit 1/2" drill motor for 1/2 drill bit Weld nuts to channel as shown. With all threaded nuts on top of the channel, the welds are not critical--just keeps 'em from turning; or from getting lost when the tool is rattling around in the tool box. The heat of welding slightly distorted the nuts, I ran a 1/2-13 tap through the three nuts with threads. Spring compressor painted and pretty. [EDIT--note that I have changed the bolts, the end ones are not threaded all the way] Compressor installed on right side. Center screw jacks up spring. Have to be careful to NOT jack spring up so high that it jams the end of the spring against the bottom of the strut housing. I can imagine spring damage if it's forced up too high. I cleaned out all the gravel and loose rust; and knocked loose rubber from the original spring pad off of the spring. New spring pad taps in pretty easily. Does not quite push in by hand. See how the lips on the bottom of the pad hug the hub carrier? The compressor in place after the pad is installed. I painted a thin film of grease on the spring and pad contact surfaces, but I don't think that's critical--and may just be a trap for road grit. Nothing left to do on this side but to unscrew three bolts and remove tool. Markings on the aftermarket pad. No, it's not made BY Moog, but it may come packaged in a Moog or NAPA or Advance Auto or CarQuest box. Smooth side goes against spring, ribbed side goes down. The original equipment rubber pad--slightly worn. And the OEM rubber pad as you might find it on your vehicle--partially separated from the spring. I used the hammer and a long pry-bar as a chisel to remove the pad. Use caution, you do NOT want to gouge the spring in the process of separating it from the rubber pad. Edited July 2 by Schurkey Replaced photos rich_e777 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyfloyd Posted December 16, 2010 Report Share Posted December 16, 2010 Wow! That's some great information. Someone from the site should make a PDF of that post and put it into Tech Info. Schurkey: Maybe you would consider Renting out that tool. I know it seems easy enough to make, but many people won't have that option available. If you could rent it for like $15-20 shipped to the renter, then the renter pays to ship it back, you would probably help out a lot of people. If not, PM me if you want to sell it, and I might... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 (edited) Wow! That's some great information. [Elvis Voice]Thankyew, thankyew verra much. [/Elvis Voice] Schurkey: Maybe you would consider Renting out that tool. I know it seems easy enough to make, but many people won't have that option available. If you could rent it for like $15-20 shipped to the renter, then the renter pays to ship it back, you would probably help out a lot of people. If not, PM me if you want to sell it, and I might... $20 rental plus return shipping? Gonna be nearly a $30 deal. I'll have my second car fitted with the spring pads tomorrow or Tuesday; I guess the spring compressor will be "available" after that. I need to check with the Post Office because I think shipping cost is a make-or-break deal on this. If this can ship in the ~$6 priority mail envelope, things are looking up. If it's gonna take a ~$11 box, I think there's no way folks will pay that much. On the other hand, if I make a few changes to help cut costs--and the Post Office is agreeable--I could conceivably SELL these things for ~$35 including shipping. Specifically, I need to find out if "ordinary" bolts will work instead of the fully-threaded bolts, and I need to be flexible with the design (potentially substituting bar stock or angle stock for the channel steel; I built the thing using a leftover "scrap" piece of metal...and next time it may be a two-foot section of bar stock instead of channel. The advantage to selling it outright is that there's no return shipping fee. Personally, I don't think there's going to be too much interest...but I've been wrong before. I'll update when I get shipping cost and have had a chance to try the different bolts. Edited December 20, 2010 by Schurkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virtuetovice Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 I'd be interested in one of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted December 24, 2010 Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 (edited) Finished the second Lumina today. Actually had MORE problems with it than the first one. I think I've figured out why some folks have to beat the living crap out of the nylon pads to get 'em to snap into place. The end of the leaf spring may not be centered on the iron casting; and it becomes trapped in place by the hub carrier. There is no room for it to move upward so the pad can slide in. I poked a tapered pry-bar between the spring and the rear lateral arm; I don't know if I moved the spring or the hub carrier--but--with the spring out from under the edge of the iron casting, the nylon block snaps in MUCH more easily! This is the tip of the spring, catching on the iron casting. See how it isn't centered in the casting--too far to the rear. Edited July 2 by Schurkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95cutlass! Posted July 18, 2018 Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 I'm grateful for this write-up!!! The creaking coming from my rear suspension had been driving me crazy! My car only has 52,000 miles on it, but the pad was completely gone on one side and barely there on the other. I bought the hard white pads from Napa... and unfortunately It does seem like it raised the car up more in the rear than before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiggity76 Posted September 1, 2018 Report Share Posted September 1, 2018 So I read this thread and was worried about my pads on the International. I took these pics but not sure what to look for. The rubber looks good but do I need to check anything else? Car doesn't run right now so I don't know if the suspension squeaks or feels mushy. Driver side. Passenger side. I'm learning so much right now about these cars and I want to keep it going! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitzel Posted December 5, 2018 Report Share Posted December 5, 2018 Anyone experienced a fiberglass leaf spring failure with the spring pads installed? Or ever had to actually replace them? I think some people were previously concerned that there would be some excess wear of the spring ends when they're installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 On 12/5/2018 at 3:07 AM, pitzel said: Anyone experienced a fiberglass leaf spring failure with the spring pads installed? Or ever had to actually replace them? I think some people were previously concerned that there would be some excess wear of the spring ends when they're installed. I've thought about the design of these plastic blocks in the years since I installed them on my two Ws. I believe the intent with these is NOT to replace the rubber pads, they're simply a spacer to add some ride-height to the ass-end of the car. As such, the spring should have fresh rubber pads glued into place BEFORE installing the plastic blocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walterdude Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 WAAAAAAY back I replaced the rubber pads... Back then most things were Dealer Items... Got the Pads from my Parts Manager/Friend at the local dealer, it came as a kit... It had some kind of Real Strong epoxy,,, 2 parts I believe... Back then there were NO plastic blocks,,, to my knowledge anyway... Using it as a spacer sounds good tho... I have NEVER heard that before... Then again,,, I have NO experience with the blocks or known of anyone who used them,,, other than what I read on forums,,, 60*v6 for many years and now here.. Tom B... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walterdude Posted December 16, 2018 Report Share Posted December 16, 2018 (edited) Is this thread locked??? Back again... No it's posting fine for me... Tom B... Edited December 16, 2018 by walterdude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiggity76 Posted December 17, 2018 Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 Hey guys, are these ok to use, has anyone tried these? They look like OEM but wanted to find out before I buy. https://www.1aauto.com/leaf-spring-insulator/i/1asrs00002?f=1243197&y=1991 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snippits Posted February 3, 2019 Report Share Posted February 3, 2019 I have the NAPA plastic blocks installed for about 25,000 miles or so now, and I don't have any problems as of yet. Spring looks like it is still holding up OK. jiggity76 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMan Posted February 4, 2019 Report Share Posted February 4, 2019 On 12/16/2018 at 10:29 PM, jiggity76 said: Hey guys, are these ok to use, has anyone tried these? They look like OEM but wanted to find out before I buy. https://www.1aauto.com/leaf-spring-insulator/i/1asrs00002?f=1243197&y=1991 They look OEM to me too. Got to see them when I pulled my monoleaf yesterday One of mine was worn. jiggity76, Imp558 and Amanita 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92InternationalCoupe Posted March 31, 2019 Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 Sounds awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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