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Invasion1

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The pinouts for the analog gauges are the same as the base cluster of 88-93. To verify this, I plugged in my spare base cluster into my sister's '93 with analog and it worked 100%

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  • 2 weeks later...
The pinouts for the analog gauges are the same as the base cluster of 88-93. To verify this, I plugged in my spare base cluster into my sister's '93 with analog and it worked 100%

 

It worked with out changing the senders to switches or did everything but the temp and oil light work.

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Well, since there were switches in the car instead of senders, as the car warmed up, the temp light slightly started to glow, since it was giving a signal at normal operating temp, where the sender wouldn't until it overheats.

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I'm confused I thought switches were for idiot lights and senders were for gauges.

 

If your sisters car had analog gauges and you plugged your base model digital dash in wouldn't the senders have to be changed to switches for the temp and oil idiot light to work.

 

Sorry I'm being such a pita, but I plan on going to the junkyard this weekend and getting a digital or analog gauge's dash cause my pos base model one is dying. I just want to make sure I do it right the first time.

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I'm confused I thought switches were for idiot lights and senders were for gauges.

 

If your sisters car had analog gauges and you plugged your base model digital dash in wouldn't the senders have to be changed to switches for the temp and oil idiot light to work.

 

Sorry I'm being such a pita, but I plan on going to the junkyard this weekend and getting a digital or analog gauge's dash cause my pos base model one is dying. I just want to make sure I do it right the first time.

 

Oh, yeah I must have reversed my wording. The idiot lights work with the senders, but they don't work correctly. So yes, you'd need to get the senders if you want an accurate reading on the gauge cluster. If you keep the switches in, your temp gage will read 0 until you overheat, where it will go to max. Oil pressure will read max until the switch sees a "low pressure" condition, where the gauge will go from max to 0. There won't be any "in between" so get the senders

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Thats what I thought I just want to make sure before I go to the store and buy/install the wrong things.

 

If I go with the analog cluster, I just need but put in the oil/temp senders and everything besides the tach will work? Has anyone ever went from a Gas, Speedometer, Odometer digital dash that can give me some

information on hookin up the tach on a analog one.

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it's real easy, cause you won't have to change any wires, just add the wire for tach (white wire ends at the firewall, have to extend it to the dash) then the senders. thats it

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Are the analog clusters for the 3.1 and 3.4 engines the same, cause I was looking on junk yard web pages for one and they had differant part numbers. Will either of them be accurate with a 2.8 cause thats what I have.

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Witch one has a closer redline to my 2.8? I went to the only junkyard in my area open past 1:00 today and they had only one analog cluster out of a 92 it was clean but it had a good sized crack in the lense. There was one with a nippon denso cluster but it was really dirty so I didn't take it. On Moday I'm going to another junkyard that has alot more cars I hope I can find one there. When I was looking on salvage yard websites I found quite a few but most of them were going for $150-200 thats insane!

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the cluster for the 3.1L is going to have the same redline as your 2.8L, at 6K rpms and yellow line at 5500 rpms. The 3.4L cluster has a redline at 7K rpms

 

Robby

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