stevenjoseph82 Posted March 31, 2003 Report Posted March 31, 2003 Well, I'm gettin' real tired of my piece of shit car. But anyways, I tore her down to the intake manifold this past weekend and I just replaced the O-rings in the fuel rail and the injectors. I checked the return fuel line and it's not blocked (it was funny because my friend troy just blew into it and you could hear the air forced into the tank). I put a new fuel filter on too, to humor myself. It's still not starting after about a half hour of sitting after driving, but will start right after you shut it off and about 2 hours after it's parked. Yet, crazily enough, it will start up fine and idle fine and even drive fine as long as your easy on it. Another problem that I was having is getting worse and I'm guessing it's tied into the other problem: when I'm real hard on the gas and it gets up to around 4K in 2nd and 3rd gears, it stumbles so hard it's like you threw on the brakes. When I say hard, I mean hard. It's like you have the pedal to the floor and the engine's not even running. As my friend described it "That's fucked up!" He said he wishes something normal would happen to my car, like fouling a spark plug or the fuel filter clogging. Something we can fix he says. I'm with him on this one. Frustratingly yours, :? :? Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted March 31, 2003 Report Posted March 31, 2003 Have you checked fuel pressure? Sounds like classic symptoms of a bad fuel pump to me. Quote
stevenjoseph82 Posted March 31, 2003 Author Report Posted March 31, 2003 Have you checked fuel pressure?Sounds like classic symptoms of a bad fuel pump to me. I didn't check the FP for the fact that I don't have one that has the valve like on the fuel rail of these cars. I didn't know if I could throw a deposit down on one at "crap-o-zone" (autozone) or what. The damn pump had better not be bad because i just had it replaced last August. I've only put about 4K miles on since then, and if the first pump made it 160,000 miles, then this one better go further, :x . I took it somewhere for the lack of facilities to drop the tank and it cost me $350. I swear to God if it's that pump, someone's goin' down! Quote
1trucavalier Posted March 31, 2003 Report Posted March 31, 2003 its man made so it can be bad! you could have gotten the walbro unit for $83 http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/ I know its kinda late but if you ever need to get parts like that always get hi-po units. They usually flow better, last longer and are better quality. That goes for injectors, fp's , gaskets, ignition coils, head bolts etc... and they are usually cheaper. Quote
stevenjoseph82 Posted March 31, 2003 Author Report Posted March 31, 2003 Yeah, I know. But when you dump that kind of change on something, you think it's fixed and will stay that way for a while. Is this set in stone that this is a fuel pump problem or is there something else that it could be. I probably have the ability to change the fuel pump myself now, so if it is the problem, I wanted to know if that walbro pump is a direct bolt-on or if it I need to mod something to get it in there. Quote
Brian P Posted March 31, 2003 Report Posted March 31, 2003 I think it could be a leaking injector(s) by chance did you test the resistance between the 2 terminals ofeach injector? Quote
stevenjoseph82 Posted April 1, 2003 Author Report Posted April 1, 2003 I think it could be a leaking injector(s) by chance did you test the resistance between the 2 terminals ofeach injector? No I didn't, but I should've. By leaking do you mean internally leaking like inside the injector? I just don't understand how this problem only appears when the car is warm, but not right after it sits because it will fire right back up after you shut it off. Can you explain specifically how a leaking injector(s) could cause a problem like this? I'm not doubting you, I just don't know how the inside of the injector works. Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted April 1, 2003 Report Posted April 1, 2003 It could be a shorted injector causing the ECM to overheat and shut down. When the ECM cools off, the car will start again. Quote
JS91Z34 Posted April 1, 2003 Report Posted April 1, 2003 If you heat up the ECM to the point of shut down, It's done. GM computers can not take direct short from an injector. If the injector shorts out, It will kill the injector driver in the ECM after prolong driving in that condition. I would check the crank sensor and/or Ignition module for heat saturation :!: :!: :!: Quote
stevenjoseph82 Posted April 1, 2003 Author Report Posted April 1, 2003 I would check the crank sensor and/or Ignition module for heat saturation :!: :!: :!: Crap, I think you told me to do that before and I didn't do it. I need to do that. Is the crank sensor a sensor I could take to autozone and have checked or can i do it myself someway, somehow? And for that matter, can I check the ignition module too. Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted April 1, 2003 Report Posted April 1, 2003 If you heat up the ECM to the point of shut down, It's done. GM computers can not take direct short from an injector. If the injector shorts out, It will kill the injector driver in the ECM after prolong driving in that condition. I would check the crank sensor and/or Ignition module for heat saturation :!: :!: :!: Â Not necessarily. There's been at least more than 1 case of a short in an injector winding that would temporarily disable the ECM, only to allow the car to start again when it cooled down. Quote
Brian P Posted April 1, 2003 Report Posted April 1, 2003 The crank position sensor is $20 and a simple sensor, I thought it either worked or outright didn't, and there was no "in between" but Im only basing that on my experience with a failing one, and my friend's GP. Quote
stevenjoseph82 Posted April 1, 2003 Author Report Posted April 1, 2003 Well, you guys are all saying different things, so I don't know. I know the symptoms I describe can be any one of those things you mentioned. I'm still confused on how I got the code 33 the first time i checked it, and after i took the map sensor out and put it back in (i did nothing too it), there's no code. I don't have much money right now with it being the end of the month and rent's due plus all the bills are coming, so i'll just replace the crank position sensor this weekend.....i'm livin' paycheck to paycheck here.....college kid with a crappy car....that never happens. Quote
Brian P Posted April 1, 2003 Report Posted April 1, 2003 What? That sounds like my life right over here, only I have a monster insurance bill rather than rent. Quote
stevenjoseph82 Posted April 1, 2003 Author Report Posted April 1, 2003 I know man. It sucks but I wouldn't trade it for the world. Unless that world was made of at least $200! jk, Quote
1trucavalier Posted April 1, 2003 Report Posted April 1, 2003 The crank sensor makes a bigggggggggg difference if it hasn't been replaced before. Mine was 13yrs old just like everything else on the car so when i put that crank sensor in WOW!! Quote
stevenjoseph82 Posted April 1, 2003 Author Report Posted April 1, 2003 I've had this car since Nov. of '99 (103,500 miles then), and judging by everyting I've had to do to it so far and all the money I've sunk into it, I'd say that everything that I haven't replaced could use it. Oh yeah, she's got 165,000 on her now.... Quote
gimp19 Posted April 1, 2003 Report Posted April 1, 2003 The crank sensor makes a bigggggggggg difference if it hasn't been replaced before. Mine was 13yrs old just like everything else on the car so when i put that crank sensor in WOW!! Â What improvments did you notice? My car is 15 years (105,550miles) old it runs fine but I know somtings gotta be wrong with it cause my moms 94 caravan with a 3.0litre mistubish engine (108,550miles) has a lot more pep on the low and top end. I know the engine might be a little more powerful but there is quite a big differance. So I know somthing needs to be replaced or maybe I just need to get the "speed density update". Does the crank sensor cause the "check engine light" to come on when it gets bad? Quote
1trucavalier Posted April 1, 2003 Report Posted April 1, 2003 Things I noticed were easier revving, stopped bogging when I punched it, the overall engine performance just felt totally better. It was almost like someone dropped another motor in it AND I AM NOT EXAGGERATION!! I know people says seat of the pants is bs!! but when you been having the problems I have with my car and you feel a drastic change then wtf!!! Quote
JS91Z34 Posted April 1, 2003 Report Posted April 1, 2003 Has anyone ever heard of heat saturation :!: Quote
1trucavalier Posted April 1, 2003 Report Posted April 1, 2003 why not just replace every sensor anyway? I paid a totall of less than $130 for all the sensors combined. Compared to an import thats cheap! If you haven't already you should have also replaced the ig coils, start thinking of injectors if you are before 93' ec... Its a gm! Quote
stevenjoseph82 Posted April 1, 2003 Author Report Posted April 1, 2003 No, I haven't heard of heat saturation. Fill me in if you would. And as for replacing all the sensors, ignition module, coils, and injectors: one thing at a time man. I'm just trying to fix what's wrong. Maybe it's a combination of things, but I gotta find it first. I don't wanna dump money into this car because I'm thinking about selling it and gettin' a loan for about 5 grand and take that money to buy a newer used car, like a '97 Aurora with decently low miles. So gettin' this thing runnin' decent so I can sell it is priority #1. I'm hoping for a cheap fix here, like under 200 bucks! Quote
JS91Z34 Posted April 2, 2003 Report Posted April 2, 2003 These motors run off of a crank sensor. Heat saturation is a very common problem with DIS ignition. What it does is cause the sensor to absorb to much heat from oil, water, and/or thermal transfer and allow for a weak signal or no signal to run to the ignition module causing erratic ignition. When the sensor cools down it will contract and work like its suppose to until it heats up again. This sensor is often overlooked mainly because no one thinks they go bad. I would start with the crank sensor, then work your way up. If your having a running problem when the car gets warm, Thats the first thing I look at on these motors. I have probably changed at least 60 crank sensors at work alone. I would try that and see what happens :!: Quote
stevenjoseph82 Posted April 2, 2003 Author Report Posted April 2, 2003 That's what I plan on doing. I appreciate your help. I think you've replied to my posts more than anyone else and I thank you for that. You seem to know your shit and if it turns out that the problem is something you've told me to check, your credibility is gonna go through the roof! Thanks again man....Steve Quote
Guest Anonymous Posted April 2, 2003 Report Posted April 2, 2003 I think I might put crank sensors in my GP's this weekend to see how they react. Quote
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