ns87 Posted February 24, 2006 Report Share Posted February 24, 2006 Ok I bought torotoro's rally gauge. I need to roll the miles and I understand how to roll the miles, but after I take off the top plastic case, WTF do I do?! I can't seem to remove the needles nor remove the thin black trim piece that runs around the gauges. I already searched, didn't see anything on the more critical step IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted February 24, 2006 Report Share Posted February 24, 2006 use two spoons to remove the needles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ns87 Posted February 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2006 ________________ l O O l l l l O O l l____ ___________l Ok so what about that outline plastic piece? and how do I make sure the needles go back in correctly? **edit** pretend those lines are a rectangle around the gauge cluster. I dont have access to my digital camera right now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 wait!!!! the odomter detaches seperately from the rear of the cluster. if you can awit, i can give you pics when I get home. htis is a 92,93 or 94 CS cluster, right? do not remove the needle!!!!!!!!!!!!!! this may ruin the cluster, as it did my spare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 Yeah apparently red lines or something will appear between the numbers if rolled back improperly....however it can be done without ruining the odo....I personally don't know how, but I do know some ppl capable of such things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ns87 Posted February 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 Ok, CrazyK thank you very much! The back looks sort of solid, I was only able to remove that paper circuit board and unplugged those long spikey rods.... I'm in no hurry, I won't be doing the swap until mid April. I was considering pulling off the oil pressure needle (dont wanna wait for resolution on proper pressure reading),blacking out the lettering, and getting a hi-res picture of my car or something in its place. Just a thought, any opinions while you're reading? lol **edit** Yes it is a 94 rally cluster...er um maybe 93! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 94 has airbag light, 93 does not....... 92 appears the same as 93.... numbers? is that a 3.4 engine cluster? is it a 94? If it has numbers it might be a 93... to remove the guts of the cluster to get to the back side, you must remove all the screws from the back... remember to mark or take a picture so you know where all the screws go. the front should seperate, and you can see that the odometer is on a seperate part that seperated from the cluster. as for the oil guage.. what were you thinking of again? numbers? info/pic, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ns87 Posted February 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 Its a 94, from a 3100. its torotoro's old gauge! Ok, for the oil gauge, I want to remove the needle, take a sharpie to the numbers. Get a photo-paper picture of my car or an oldsmobile logo and put it over the spot of the gauge. Its ok if it doesn't light up! Thank for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted February 25, 2006 Report Share Posted February 25, 2006 oh, you want to remove the guage! I wouldn;t but thats me. I don't think it would look right, and the only warning in 94 of low oil is the checkguages light... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ns87 Posted February 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 Hey torotoro, look familiar? This is the template I made out of some styafoam of all the screws in the back Gauge apart Mileage assembly Figured I knew how to roll the mileage, but I can only seem to remove the tumblers for the trip odometer. This is the assembly turned on its side. Behind that black thing, there is an upside screw. The only way to remove it is to remove the odometer from the circuit board. I removed 2 screws, but something on the motor is still stuck to board. Am I missing something? I tried rolling by .1 colum. I only did 2,000 miles and I'm already wearing down the numbers. I need to go from 97 to 120k. Should I just give up, and look in a Junkyard for a closer odometer and stick that in the new gauges? Thanks everyone whos helped me this far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cam'ron Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 wait your trying to roll the odometer foreward? huh? why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ns87 Posted February 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 sorry, should have specified. I have a digital gauge (non ub3) and I'm swapping in the 92+ rally gauge I bought from torotoro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cam'ron Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 oh ok... good luck i have no clue i would figure it would be easier then rolling one back but do you get the lines even if you manually roll it forewards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 you could try getting a small variable power suply and puting a small amount of power (~5v max IMO) to the motor that turns the odometer and walk away for awhile. or remove the small motor and spin it by hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ns87 Posted February 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 I was thinking about hooking power to the motor there, but there are 5 yellow wires and one white. Which wires should I hook up? Also, I wish I could remove the motor but it appears to be stuck to the circuit board, even with screws taken off! I know this thread is mostly me whining! lol, I just want to get the damn dash in **edit#2** nametnom: I think on the new ones that becomes a problem! If not, I really messed up the odometer considering I can roll the white .1 place both foward and backwords with no problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutty Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 damn that looks like alot of work just to roll the odometer up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fender2082 Posted March 16, 2006 Report Share Posted March 16, 2006 mildly related topic... while you have it open... if i wanted to change the backlight color of my gauges, is that possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToroToro Posted March 16, 2006 Report Share Posted March 16, 2006 You dont even need to take it apart to change the bulbs. They come out from behind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ns87 Posted March 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2006 Update. I figured how to roll the miles "easily". Remove 6 solder marks which hold the motor in place. Detach motor from mileage assembly and you can roll really really easily to what you need! wahoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stockgp Posted March 16, 2006 Report Share Posted March 16, 2006 damn that does seem like a lot of work just to do that. i wonder why the cutlass cluster is so much more difficult to tak apart than the grand prix or lumina cluster. gotta love gm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ns87 Posted April 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2006 So it doesn't work. I got miles rolled, plug in with stockgp's harness. Only the gas gauge works. Oil pressure and temp are dead bc I didn't change the sensors on engine yet. No speedo/tach (spliced the orange wire at 'code reader port'), no volatage meter, and the mileage doesn't roll. All blinkers, dummy lights, dimmer all work. Anyone think I just fucked this gauge cluster up, or do I need to find the same cluster from a 3.1 not a 3100 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlsp Posted April 2, 2006 Report Share Posted April 2, 2006 that cluster is not ub3 pined it will work with the BASE model wiring points the only one you need to run is the tach wire to the icm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ns87 Posted April 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2006 What?!?!?! lol why did I buy a wiring harness adaptor? I just came back to school, so I can't test it again till Friday. Any other consensus on this? Its not wired like UB3? I'll keep whoever is actually watching this updated Keep in mind my car is wired with Base Digital Gauges from factory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlsp Posted April 3, 2006 Report Share Posted April 3, 2006 Mine had the Base digital cluster as well and Shawn told me about the analog cluster being made pinned the same as the base digital cluster. which is why I swaped in the analog cluster in the first place no one made the adapter when I was looking into swaping out my problematic cluster. I admit I took the easy way out I will try to find out tomorrow what the spot is for the tach wire that you need to run to 1 of the white wires on your ICM connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToroToro Posted April 3, 2006 Report Share Posted April 3, 2006 Uh yeah, base and analogs are the same . Maybe Dan thought you were going from the analog to digi UB3, or vise versa. Tap the tanish orange wire at the ALDL for the tach. No need to run a wire from the ICM at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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