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Taking Apart Cutlass Gauge (not 56k safe)


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Posted

Ok I bought torotoro's rally gauge. I need to roll the miles and I understand how to roll the miles, but after I take off the top plastic case, WTF do I do?! I can't seem to remove the needles nor remove the thin black trim piece that runs around the gauges. I already searched, didn't see anything on the more critical step IMO

Posted

________________

l O O l

l l

l O O l

l____ ___________l

 

Ok so what about that outline plastic piece? and how do I make sure the needles go back in correctly?

 

**edit** pretend those lines are a rectangle around the gauge cluster. I dont have access to my digital camera right now

Posted

wait!!!! the odomter detaches seperately from the rear of the cluster. if you can awit, i can give you pics when I get home.

 

htis is a 92,93 or 94 CS cluster, right?

 

do not remove the needle!!!!!!!!!!!!!! this may ruin the cluster, as it did my spare.

Posted

Yeah apparently red lines or something will appear between the numbers if rolled back improperly....however it can be done without ruining the odo....I personally don't know how, but I do know some ppl capable of such things

Posted

Ok, CrazyK thank you very much! The back looks sort of solid, I was only able to remove that paper circuit board and unplugged those long spikey rods.... I'm in no hurry, I won't be doing the swap until mid April. I was considering pulling off the oil pressure needle (dont wanna wait for resolution on proper pressure reading),blacking out the lettering, and getting a hi-res picture of my car or something in its place. Just a thought, any opinions while you're reading? lol

 

**edit** Yes it is a 94 rally cluster...er um maybe 93!

Posted

94 has airbag light, 93 does not....... 92 appears the same as 93....

 

numbers? is that a 3.4 engine cluster? is it a 94? If it has numbers it might be a 93...

 

to remove the guts of the cluster to get to the back side, you must remove all the screws from the back... remember to mark or take a picture so you know where all the screws go.

 

the front should seperate, and you can see that the odometer is on a seperate part that seperated from the cluster.

 

as for the oil guage.. what were you thinking of again? numbers? info/pic, thanks!

Posted

Its a 94, from a 3100. its torotoro's old gauge! Ok, for the oil gauge, I want to remove the needle, take a sharpie to the numbers. Get a photo-paper picture of my car or an oldsmobile logo and put it over the spot of the gauge. Its ok if it doesn't light up! Thank for your help

Posted

oh, you want to remove the guage! I wouldn;t but thats me. I don't think it would look right, and the only warning in 94 of low oil is the checkguages light...

Posted

726182_59_full.jpg

Hey torotoro, look familiar?

726182_60_full.jpg

This is the template I made out of some styafoam of all the screws in the back

726182_61_full.jpg

Gauge apart

726182_62_full.jpg

 

Mileage assembly

 

Figured I knew how to roll the mileage, but I can only seem to remove the tumblers for the trip odometer.

 

726182_63_full.jpg

 

This is the assembly turned on its side. Behind that black thing, there is an upside screw. The only way to remove it is to remove the odometer from the circuit board. I removed 2 screws, but something on the motor is still stuck to board. Am I missing something?

 

I tried rolling by .1 colum. I only did 2,000 miles and I'm already wearing down the numbers. I need to go from 97 to 120k. Should I just give up, and look in a Junkyard for a closer odometer and stick that in the new gauges? Thanks everyone whos helped me this far!

Posted

sorry, should have specified. I have a digital gauge (non ub3) and I'm swapping in the 92+ rally gauge I bought from torotoro

Posted

oh ok... good luck i have no clue :lol:

i would figure it would be easier then rolling one back but do you get the lines even if you manually roll it forewards

Posted

you could try getting a small variable power suply and puting a small amount of power (~5v max IMO) to the motor that turns the odometer and walk away for awhile. or remove the small motor and spin it by hand.

Posted

I was thinking about hooking power to the motor there, but there are 5 yellow wires and one white. Which wires should I hook up? Also, I wish I could remove the motor but it appears to be stuck to the circuit board, even with screws taken off! I know this thread is mostly me whining! lol, I just want to get the damn dash in :lol:

 

**edit#2**

 

nametnom: I think on the new ones that becomes a problem! If not, I really messed up the odometer considering I can roll the white .1 place both foward and backwords with no problem

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

mildly related topic... while you have it open... if i wanted to change the backlight color of my gauges, is that possible?

Posted

You dont even need to take it apart to change the bulbs. They come out from behind.

Posted

Update. I figured how to roll the miles "easily". Remove 6 solder marks which hold the motor in place. Detach motor from mileage assembly and you can roll really really easily to what you need! wahoo

Posted

damn that does seem like a lot of work just to do that. i wonder why the cutlass cluster is so much more difficult to tak apart than the grand prix or lumina cluster.

 

gotta love gm

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

So it doesn't work. I got miles rolled, plug in with stockgp's harness. Only the gas gauge works. Oil pressure and temp are dead bc I didn't change the sensors on engine yet. No speedo/tach (spliced the orange wire at 'code reader port'), no volatage meter, and the mileage doesn't roll. All blinkers, dummy lights, dimmer all work. Anyone think I just fucked this gauge cluster up, or do I need to find the same cluster from a 3.1 not a 3100 ?

Posted

that cluster is not ub3 pined it will work with the BASE model wiring points the only one you need to run is the tach wire to the icm.

Posted

:willynilly: What?!?!?! lol why did I buy a wiring harness adaptor? I just came back to school, so I can't test it again till Friday. Any other consensus on this? Its not wired like UB3? I'll keep whoever is actually watching this updated

 

Keep in mind my car is wired with Base Digital Gauges from factory

Posted

Mine had the Base digital cluster as well and Shawn told me about the analog cluster being made pinned the same as the base digital cluster. which is why I swaped in the analog cluster in the first place no one made the adapter when I was looking into swaping out my problematic cluster. I admit I took the easy way out :lol: I will try to find out tomorrow what the spot is for the tach wire that you need to run to 1 of the white wires on your ICM connector.

Posted

Uh yeah, base and analogs are the same . Maybe Dan thought you were going from the analog to digi UB3, or vise versa.

 

Tap the tanish orange wire at the ALDL for the tach. No need to run a wire from the ICM at all.

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