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Rumor Has It...


97loudcut

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Rumore has it that changing the spark plug / wires is hard to do on my engine (3100 SFI) is this true. Anyone with this engine that has done it before I need some advice.

 

::GOING TO BED NOW::

 

..look forward to the replies tomorow plus I am cleaning my car..

 

sincerely,

the wash bay bitch :guns:

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the age old how to.

 

I use a rachet strap, unbolt the brackets for the dog bone front mounts from the top of the radiator support, and flip them ontop of the engine, and roll the engine forward with the rachet strap.

 

I have also used a bloack of wood on the rear of the tranny pan and a jack before i got a rachet strap.

 

other sue the alternator removal method, or the unkook the dogbone mounts frhm the eninge dies, and pull the engine forward with a crowbar or 2x4.... and push the bolt through.

 

AND I'm sure someone... somewhere.... has dropped the subframe from their car to change the plugs.

 

Anyone have a pic of the experimental car with a cutlass 2 dr body, GP interior, probe style front end with an extra long windshiled that stops at the middle of it's plenum? (and it has a series one 3800, i think.)

 

3100rotation.jpg

 

3100rotation2.jpg

 

31rotation.jpg

 

31rotation2.jpg

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I never had to rock the engine forward to change the rear 3 plugs in either my old 96 Lumina or 95 Grand Prix, both with the 3100. I did, however have to swing the ICM/coilpack assembly out of the way. The older 2.8's and 3.1's are the ones you need to rotate forward to access the rear plugs...

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Anyone have a pic of the experimental car with a cutlass 2 dr body, GP interior, probe style front end with an extra long windshiled that stops at the middle of it's plenum? (and it has a series one 3800, i think.)

http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21792

 

I drive past that car daily at the GM Tech Center in Warren. I just drove past it on the way to Jeremys the car sits under some trees...like every other W-body.

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FUCK I should have put my writeup in the FAQ's not the general section :bash:

 

EDIT: I like that concept car, I read the thread but didnt see anyhting about who owns the car... I want it!

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not sure why you guys are rocking your engine forward or removing parts to change the plugs...its simple...it really is...u just need the right tools! :wink:

 

hardest part is routing the new plug wires IMO...the plugs are easy...just be sure you have a spark plug socket, a few different length extensions, and a good 3/8 ratchet..

 

BTW: i said it was easy...not that it was a quick job...it did take me like 20-45 minutes to do mine...but it wasnt really hard...just time consuming... :wink:

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I never had to rock the engine forward to change the rear 3 plugs in either my old 96 Lumina or 95 Grand Prix, both with the 3100. I did, however have to swing the ICM/coilpack assembly out of the way. The older 2.8's and 3.1's are the ones you need to rotate forward to access the rear plugs...

My mechanic didn't have to move the engine one bit. I might add that he is a very skilled individual though. Hence why he changed my plug wires, and not me. :lol:

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Alot of us aren't mechanics though. It takes what, like an extra 10min to unbolt a few things and rock the engine forward? The hardest part for me was putting the rear plugs back in, I don't think I could do it with the engine not tilted.

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Alot of us aren't mechanics though. It takes what, like an extra 10min to unbolt a few things and rock the engine forward? The hardest part for me was putting the rear plugs back in, I don't think I could do it with the engine not tilted.

 

:werd: Although I'm not exactly mechanically inept, I just found it a lot easier to rock the engine. No way in hell my sausage fingers would get down behind that motor otherwise.

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if someone sends us a write up I will put it in the FAQ section

 

In is recommended you chock the wheels, and put the car in neutral.

doing so will releave stress on the transmission.

 

Hook a rachet strap onto a solid point on the engine, hook the other end onto the underside of the radiator support.

 

Unbolt the brackets for both the dog bone front mounts from the top of the radiator support, and flip them on top of the engine.

 

Tighten the rachet strap and roll the engine forward, I stop when the manifold or something contacts the fan.

 

I usually do this with a long sleeve sweater or jacket on, so I don't scratch up my arm.

 

btw, you can buy at most any autostore a spark plug boot removal tool, which helps to pop off the spark plug boots.

 

In liew of a rachet strap, I have also used a block of wood on the rear of the tranny pan with a jack.

3100

3100rotation.jpg

 

3100rotation2.jpg

3.1

31rotation.jpg

 

31rotation2.jpg

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And a good idea is to have some sort protection for your arm, as you may still scratch it reaching behind the engine. Think long glove, tube sock, long sleeve jacket.

 

ok. Now you're just giving instructions on how to be a pussy. no pun intended.

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And a good idea is to have some sort protection for your arm, as you may still scratch it reaching behind the engine. Think long glove, tube sock, long sleeve jacket.

 

ok. Now you're just giving instructions on how to be a pussy. no pun intended.

I'm posting as an example of a write up, no need to mock. does it look good?

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Looks very good to me. Although I used a different method involving a tow rope, and my Aurora. :wink:

 

I dont think I will ever wear a sock on my arm to change plugs though. :lol: Cuts can heal.

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Tow strap is an excellent idea. I use it to tilt mine forward as well(3.4 DOHC).

 

As for the cuts, :lol: They heal. I think burns hurt more though.

 

as for the burns, u really shouldnt be changing your plugs with the engine hott anywayz...so if u just wait for it too cool down u should be fine. :wink:

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