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The TSTE rebuild topic (56k get cable)


GutlessSupreme

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Intermediate shaft bracket:

 

DSCN0610%20(Medium).JPG

 

Turbo support bracket:

 

DSCN0612%20(Medium).JPG

 

(small hole was a misdrill :lol: I know the welds look a little cancerous but my buddy did me a huge favor welding them for me and they hold mint)

 

empty bay w/ new powersteering lines, tierods + boots, etc.

 

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motor & tranny bolted up:

 

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IS bracket on the motor:

 

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G-stop lines (just came today):

 

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my machine and I:

 

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woot!:

 

DSCN0647%20(Medium).JPG

 

bling:

 

DSCN0648%20(Medium).JPG

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looking good man. When you coming to do mine?

 

:lol:

 

Looks good Tony, but did you use a stock X-over?

 

no, that was the crossover from my TGP. It's not a Jeff M/Kenny job, but it's definetly been redone. I do still have two replacement braided stainless bellows, but unless I have a problem with the pipe I'm not going to have them put in for now.

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Looks great man, just dont be surprised if you have to re-weld that IS bracket, welds looks VERY questionable.

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the welder was some shitty electric 120v one. if they do break they're fairly easy to get to so *shrug*

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All that hard work to have those welds let go would be really shitty man. Just drop the bracket off at any garage and they can weld it right there for ya. Everything else looks really good man, lots of time in that machine. :high5:

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

sooo...

 

i need to finish:

hooking up grounds

find/hack/install pass. side axle then hub then caliper

find/install new oil cooler (also need o-ring for the adaptor side mating surface.. which is a problem.)

brake fluid + bleed + hope rear brakes are fine for a little while before i feel like doing the rear upgrade

all other fluids

install rad/tb/piping/egr/waterpump pulley/finish crank pulley/surpentine belt/everything on the back of the plenum/battery

 

literally, that is all I need to do to drive it. making it road worthy and able to pass inspection may be another story, as I still need a windshield, I don't know the condition of the rear calipers, and the monoleaf has a slight crack. hopefully I won't get hung up by stupid problems along the way.

 

new pics in a few days maybe.

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Hey Tony,

 

Rear calipers were replaced in 2003. I have found out the hard way that grounds are important. :lol:

 

I have next week off so if you need a hand let me know.

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  • 4 weeks later...

*crank*crank*crank*crank* NO START *crank*crank*crank* STARTER SMOKING *pause*get fire extinguisher*hardwire primary fan*let cool* *crank*crank*crank*crank*

 

so basically, in case you missed out on something, I can't get it to start. It may very well be an old fuel problem, I mixed about 3 gallons of new stuff in to no avail. I won't have time to drain the tank and start fresh for a little over a week as I'm going to florida on sunday, but my hopes are bad gas. I'm fairly sure it's not a spark problem. Occasionally I would get a backfire or two.

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  • 2 weeks later...

copied/pasted

 

so i took it for 2 10-15 minute drives a couple days ago to get the motor a little broken in, just around the neighborhood. it runs pretty good. there's a loud knocking whenever i shift less-than-perfectly, i'm gonna have to jack it up and check the motor/tranny/subframe mounts and the intermediate shaft bracket. the spec stage 3 clutch isn't too bad, there's not much room to play with but i think part it may be because a rear caliper is locked up, so it just wouldn't go anywhere unless i gave it some gas. (=smoking brake pads all the way down the street)

 

the PM3 of course is acting up. I had 3 parts units and apparently I didn't choose a good combination. before I took it off the road, the pump motor would run absolutely nonstop. now it runs for at least two minutes every 1-2 pedal presses, which i guess is better but not really. I don't see any leaks, and I doubt i have all of the air out of the system. however about 15 minutes into my second run the pedal went rock hard, so i decided it was probably time to baby it home. going to have to check into that. i don't know if it had anything to do with the rear caliper being locked up. the rear portion of the reservoir was almost empty when i came back, but i didn't relieve the accumulator pressure before i checked either.

 

I think it's the accumulator that's the problem. it turns off eventually so I wouldn't think the pressure switch or relay are causing it. hopefully it's not a cracked rear housing. both ABS and Brake lights have been coming on. sometimes the ABS flashes, sometimes it's solid.

 

-------------------

rear passenger side brake line popped. i put more fluid in the rear half of the reservoir and let the pump run... 1 minute.. 2 minutes... 3 minutes.. finally i shut it off and poked around. big puddle dripping off the rear control arm center support. hopefully that's my only problem. that should explain why the pedal went rock hard - no accumulator charge!

 

I haven't tackled any of the rust issues in the rear yet, but it looks like i will be sooner than I thought. I'd already bought a new fuel filler neck, mine was almost wasted away. I think I'm just going to replace both rear lines from the proportioning valve back. looks like i'm also doing the '94+ upgrade sonner than I'd planned.

 

---------------------

 

shitty pics

 

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needs a wash/touch up/buff/wax/polish BADLY. still have to finish with the hood. it's getting there though, besides the damn brakes. though when i was dicking around with the shifter trying to get the boot on, it seems like the cables are getting hung up really bad on something. another thing i have to examine.

 

i'm pretty sure i'm gonna keep those wheels on there, but with this treatment: (a little more completed and less destroyed)

 

SD530284%20(Large).JPG

 

black inserts with polished face/lip. i think that's how the RPE GPs were (cept not black).

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