The TSTE rebuild topic (56k get cable)

[Robby1870]

engine bay looks good!

[Euro]

yeah the engine bay looks nice. I can't wait til you get thist back to 100%

[GutlessSupreme]

So I've been doing some rethinking again..

 

my TGP heads were nearly mint when I pulled them off, even on the cylinder that shot itself through the side of the block..

I started an awkward port job on one of the exhaust ports to try and gasket match it.. I realize this won't turn out with the best results but I only made it halfway to the gasket, I didn't open it up fully. I think I'm going to finish off the other ports so they're at least evenly sized, and throwing those on the motor.

 

I'm buying some LS2 springs so all the valvetrain hardware's getting replaced, all that leaves is cleaning, flatness checking and a valve job. I don't know how involved a valve job is but $220 doesn't really seem worth it condsidering that's the only real work the shop has to do.

 

I'm also thinking... what reasons have I to not put the Getrag in now?

I know the clutch MC supposedly interferes with PM3. I'd like to keep my PM3 so I'll be looking for a way around that.

I'll need a clutch and clutch cover.

I'll need a custom chip, and some direction on the wiring changes.

I'll need ABS 5 speed axles (were they ever available?)

I'll need the lower motor mount and I'd like to pick up a 3 point dogbone for the top.

 

I think I have everything else. I'll need the 5 speed GP center console plate too but I don't need that to drive the thing.

[Bossman429]

Carquest lists a 5 speed w/ABS axle.

[GutlessSupreme]

I can't find where carquest even lists parts on their site? I did however find them on Autozone's site made by Duralast... I can't find much on NAPA. In any case, thanks glad to hear they're available.

 

I just went out and test fit the clutch MC next to the PM3. It looks like it will fit fine?

 

Does anyone have a pic of the clutch MC for a 282? It looks like something broke off of the top of mine.

[skalor]

I didn't have any problems with my clutch master cylinder hitting the PM3. It was a pain to reach in there to install it, but it fit just fine.

[GutlessSupreme]

Yea my engine bay is literally empty save for a few wires and stuff so it shouldn't be that bad to put in. I just could've sworn that someone kept advocating that it wouldn't work with PM3 because of fitment issues. Maybe I was thinking of the bigger brake boosters on the '95+ or whatever cars.

[skalor]

Yeah, the later style vacuum brake boost is larger and I've heard that it doesn't fit with them.

[Bossman429]

I can use Carquest's parts counter program from home

[Guest TurboSedan]

 

I just went out and test fit the clutch MC next to the PM3. It looks like it will fit fine?

 

Does anyone have a pic of the clutch MC for a 282? It looks like something broke off of the top of mine.

 

http://www.turbosedan.com/cutlass/trans/DSC00951.JPG

 

sound like the nipple for the clutch reservoir might have broken off of yours? clutch MS will fit fine next to PMIII. of course, you'll have to modify the hole with a Dremel or swap the firewall plate but good luck finding a firewall plate from a PMIII/5-speed equipt car.

 

[no1kicker]

I saw put the 5 speed in. Custom chip isn't hard to get. If you were looking to find a 5 speed / ABS firewall, why not just dump the PM3 instead and go vacuum?

[GutlessSupreme]

http://www.turbosedan.com/cutlass/trans/DSC00951.JPG

 

sound like the nipple for the clutch reservoir might have broken off of yours?

 

yep, the nipple right on top. oh well, I'm sure I can epoxy some kind of fitting on there.

 

I saw put the 5 speed in. Custom chip isn't hard to get. If you were looking to find a 5 speed / ABS firewall, why not just dump the PM3 instead and go vacuum?

 

I'm a fan of the PM3, and between three complete units that I have laying around I should have enough parts to make one working one.

 

The clutch MC got fitted today 8-) it's installed right now, I just have to twist it back out to finish painting stuff but it's in. I'm wicked psyched now at the idea of putting the Getrag in sooner than expected.. the only semi-hard part will get getting the wiring straight (I want all the switches to work correctly). I'll have to find someone who wants to make me a chip, and I have a buddy that can fab up a turbo support bracket.

 

w00t!

[GutlessSupreme]

There are a bunch of o-rings and shit in the Fel Pro bottom short block gasket set that I can't figure out where they go... I'll post some pics in a minute.

 

1's a 3"ish rubber ring with like a step around it.. it looks identical to the gasket that goes between the oil cooler and block adaptor piece, but it's like an inch too narrow in diameter.

 

1 3/4"ish black o-ring

 

There's 6 small rubber o-rings that look exactly like fuel injector o-rings, but I can't imagine why they'd be in this kit if they are.

 

1 orange (sillicon?) o-ring about a tad bit bigger than the 6 (they fit inside of it, definetly not the oil pump drive or anything. that comes in the intake gasket set, anyway). smaller than the single black one.

 

1 small white plastic ring? I think it's the same size almost at the orange one.

 

There's also one big paper gasket that looks like it goes around a waterpump or something but definetly not on this motor...

 

On the large bolt/tube that goes through the oil cooler and adaptor and bolts to the block, there's a black o-ring on that that I don't see a replacement here for. The orange one looks too small and the single black one looks too big. I dunno what goes on there. The ring that' supposed to fit between the cooler and adaptor also isn't present, but I wasn't expecting it to be.

 

 

I'm pissed.. I found a crack in one of the exhaust ports of my original TGP heads that I was doing a halfass port job on. So much for using those heads, I'll be getting my STE one's rebuilt after all. It looks like a casting line at first... it goes all the way out to the face where the manifold bolts up though.

 

pics in a few mins...

[slick]

I'm pissed.. I found a crack in one of the exhaust ports of my original TGP heads that I was doing a halfass port job on. So much for using those heads, I'll be getting my STE one's rebuilt after all. It looks like a casting line at first... it goes all the way out to the face where the manifold bolts up though.

 

pics in a few mins...

 

Damn. I'm assuming the damage was caused from when the TGP blew itself up?

[GutlessSupreme]

Damn. I'm assuming the damage was caused from when the TGP blew itself up?

 

First thing I thought too, but it's the wrong head

[GutlessSupreme]

All just mock-up for now. Need to do a few things before I can bolt down the timing cover/oil pan for good.

 

 

 

clutch MC installed.

 

 

paint was cracked and peeling bad around each hood vent.. I only primed this side so far, needs a few more coats... I sanded the whole hood down with 800, it's started to have small bubbles all over (not rust, just not sticking to the primer anymore.) whole hood's gonna be shit within the year if it keeps up.

 

 

fuckin a.

 

 

 

on a side note, I've heard it's good practice to break down a brand new oil pump and grind down and burrs or anything inside so that no chunks come loose as it breaks in. Anyone here done that/have tips?

[slick]

Damn. I'm assuming the damage was caused from when the TGP blew itself up?

 

First thing I thought too, but it's the wrong head

 

Damn.

[GutlessSupreme]

Holy shit. My parts came. on a Saturday no less! FedEx FTW!

 

no pics... cameara batteries are dead. I got my LS1 shims for my heads, timing dampner, new oil dipstick tube (broke the original upon removal), and of course, a brand new vacuum ball

 

quickest GMPD special order ever! usually it takes like three weeks to ship everything out.

[GutlessSupreme]

More parts today! w00t! LS2 springs ftw!

 

Also bought a pipe bender, some copper pipe and some fittings to rig up an aux. oiler for the 9-12 cam lobes. I could've sworn the block was smaller though, the main fitting is 3/8" and I bought all 1/4". I'll still keep the pipe etc that size, just need a 3/8 to 1/4 fitting for the block.

 

Going outside for one last check on dipstick tube and oil pan clearance to the windage tray, installing the new timing chain damper, and hopefully sealing up the bottom end for good.

 

 

 

Tips on what to do for front main seal? does it just pop into the timing cover dry and that's it?

 

Still wondering about all those extra gaskets/o-rings too... any input?

[Guest TurboSedan]

 

There are a bunch of o-rings and shit in the Fel Pro bottom short block gasket set that I can't figure out where they go... I'll post some pics in a minute.

1's a 3"ish rubber ring with like a step around it.. it looks identical to the gasket that goes between the oil cooler and block adaptor piece, but it's like an inch too narrow in diameter.

1 3/4"ish black o-ring

There's 6 small rubber o-rings that look exactly like fuel injector o-rings, but I can't imagine why they'd be in this kit if they are.

1 orange (sillicon?) o-ring about a tad bit bigger than the 6 (they fit inside of it, definetly not the oil pump drive or anything. that comes in the intake gasket set, anyway). smaller than the single black one.

1 small white plastic ring? I think it's the same size almost at the orange one.

There's also one big paper gasket that looks like it goes around a waterpump or something but definetly not on this motor...

On the large bolt/tube that goes through the oil cooler and adaptor and bolts to the block, there's a black o-ring on that that I don't see a replacement here for. The orange one looks too small and the single black one looks too big. I dunno what goes on there. The ring that' supposed to fit between the cooler and adaptor also isn't present, but I wasn't expecting it to be.

 

 

 

 

 

i wouldn't worry about that stuff. those 6 small black o-rings are probably just extra injector o-rings. the other stuff looks like it's for a completely different application. btw i found the oil cooler-adapter o-ring at NAPA. just bring the old one in and they should be able to find one for you. the front timing cover crank seal just pops right in. i would probably use a little motor oil to lube it to help with installation and also grease the rubber lip. make sure the lip doesn't fold over when slipping over the crankshaft.

 

looks good can't wait to see it all back in the car

[Euro]

yeah man this is lookin really good

[no1kicker]

Can't wait to see this thing done!

 

If you don't put the white 5 spokes back on,

[ns87]

I've had the Turbo forum hidden all these months and always wondered what happened to your tste. It all clicked today! looks good

[SleeperRed90TGp]

More parts today! w00t! LS2 springs ftw!

 

Also bought a pipe bender, some copper pipe and some fittings to rig up an aux. oiler for the 9-12 cam lobes. I could've sworn the block was smaller though, the main fitting is 3/8" and I bought all 1/4". I'll still keep the pipe etc that size, just need a 3/8 to 1/4 fitting for the block.

 

Going outside for one last check on dipstick tube and oil pan clearance to the windage tray, installing the new timing chain damper, and hopefully sealing up the bottom end for good.

 

I just have to guess but sounds like your going to put oilers on the cam. Don't waste your time on 11 and 12. There fed directly from the oil pump. 9 and 10 are the critical ones because there the last ones in the oil food chain.

If your going to do 4 of them do 5 and 6 and 9 and 10 since there the last ones that get oiled.

 

As far as the fittings that your going to use, I used the 1/4 pipe plug that is the only flat plug in the lifter galery. You can drill and tap it to 1/8 pipe thread or get a reducer bushing. I used 1/8 tubing and still had to squeez the end so it didn't flow to much. The rt angel fitting is the largest I could screw in with out hitting the block.

 

Heres a picture of the first cut. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v297/sleeperred90tgp/CamLobeOiler.jpg

 

As far as your seal a finger smear of RTV around the OD.

 

Hope this helps

 

Jud

 

 

 

 

[GutlessSupreme]

i wouldn't worry about that stuff. those 6 small black o-rings are probably just extra injector o-rings. the other stuff looks like it's for a completely different application. btw i found the oil cooler-adapter o-ring at NAPA. just bring the old one in and they should be able to find one for you. the front timing cover crank seal just pops right in. i would probably use a little motor oil to lube it to help with installation and also grease the rubber lip. make sure the lip doesn't fold over when slipping over the crankshaft.

 

looks good can't wait to see it all back in the car

 

Sounds good.. yea that big spare paper gasket was also in a seperate timing gasket kit too.. weird. I dunno what it'd be for. Good to know about the oil cooler ring, now if only I can find my original I know I saw it a few days ago...

I tried getting the front seal on but I couldn't get it on straight and I didn't want to force it.. I'll probably borrow the install tool from autozone to make sure it goes in even. I tried a socket but the biggest I have is 36mm for the axle nuts and it just barely covered the inside lip. And yea, YOU can't wait to see it back in the car? What about me?

 

yeah man this is lookin really good

 

thankee

 

Can't wait to see this thing done!

 

If you don't put the white 5 spokes back on,

 

we'll see... not that I don't love them, but the tires are so narrow, the 245 Cobra GTHs are begging to be used, and... now all 4 of the 5 spokes have really bad curb rash

 

I've had the Turbo forum hidden all these months and always wondered what happened to your tste. It all clicked today! looks good

 

thanks

 

I just have to guess but sounds like your going to put oilers on the cam. Don't waste your time on 11 and 12. There fed directly from the oil pump. 9 and 10 are the critical ones because there the last ones in the oil food chain.

If your going to do 4 of them do 5 and 6 and 9 and 10 since there the last ones that get oiled.

 

As far as the fittings that your going to use, I used the 1/4 pipe plug that is the only flat plug in the lifter galery. You can drill and tap it to 1/8 pipe thread or get a reducer bushing. I used 1/8 tubing and still had to squeez the end so it didn't flow to much. The rt angel fitting is the largest I could screw in with out hitting the block.

 

Good to know about 11 and 12.. I hadn't really figured on that I guess. I'll probably cover at least 9 and 10, that'll probably be it. It's not as easy as it looks to get it set up right I got a 3/8" to 1/4" right angle fitting for the block.. I bought one that just goes straight up too (I knew the angle wouldn't clear the deck when screwing it down all the way, was unsure what I wanted to do). I actually have about $15 worth of 1/4" tubing I just bought.. blah. where did you get 1/8"? And did you use compression fittings? I'm having the hardest time getting my fittings to actually stay on the end of the pipe...