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Need help from the DOHC guys ASAP please!!!


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Posted

I found a 96 GTP today in Louisville. Going to look at it at 5 today. Has EVERYTHING, HUD, DIC, Leather, White exterior. Looks promising, has 90k on it. I'm going to pop the hood and look around, what should I be looking for?? I'm already going to pull off the cover to the timing belt and check that out, is there anything else that is noticeable that I could maybe bargin with him for?? Thanks guys!!!

Posted

ask about the alt when last changed

if you hear any wining from power steering

also make sure when you turn the ignition on that all the idiot lights come on

the idiot b4 me took out the ses light and i didn't notice till later

Posted

Start, drive it, and listen to it. If you get to drive the car park it in a different place you picked it up from and check for leaks.

Ever driven one b4?

Posted

make sure the trans is good, go about 30mph and floor it, it should down shift to first and not slip. look by the throttle body all the way down to the top of the block and you will see(hard to see but can) the cap for the distributor, they leak all the time and to properly fix it you need to take the head off. and of course the b4 mentioned. there pretty sweet motors in my opinion and have not had many problems like people say.

Posted

i have a 96 monty dohc and it's a high maintenance car. look after the little things as they come up and it should run great. look for the usual signs of oil leaks, 96 cars should be using the orange dex-cool rad coolant (so make sure it is) and check the timing belt carefuly and ask for a receipt if they tell you it was just changed. if it has air, make sure it's cold or it could cost several hundred dollars. the rest should be common sense. good luck.

Posted

Get a 10mm socket, an extension and a ratchet. Open up the timing belt inspection cover(to the left as you're facing the motor) beside the front bank of cylinders. Pull it off(two bolts) If there's a lot of black hair, or the belt looks frayed/half gone, there's a barganing chip right there.

 

 

Make sure that the dealer knows that those things are expensive as hell to change. If it's in questionable shape, you might try dropping your offer by 500-1000 dollars. Be firm. Don't take that "It's ok, see" or "our cars go through a rigorous 101 point inspection" BS. See it for yourself.

Posted

There is no proper way to fix that distibutor plug leak, If there was it would'nt leak again and again. The best takes about 30 min and one rubber o-ring slightly smaller than the plug itself. :)

Posted
Get a 10mm socket, an extension and a ratchet. Open up the timing belt inspection cover(to the left as you're facing the motor) beside the front bank of cylinders. Pull it off(two bolts) If there's a lot of black hair, or the belt looks frayed/half gone, there's a barganing chip right there.

Exactly, pull the cover and look for a warn belt, thin belt or any missing teeth on the belt. Also ask when/IF the alt has been changed. Pull the tranny dip stick and see if it smells burnt then it may not have well seriviced.

 

RedZ

Posted
look by the throttle body all the way down to the top of the block and you will see(hard to see but can) the cap for the distributor, they leak all the time and to properly fix it you need to take the head off.

 

That's a 9 hour job according to the dealer and 900-1000 dollars. That will take the price down.

Posted

Hey guys thanks for all the replys... I drove it yesterday, tranny seemed to shift fine except when I got up close to redline, it would slip REAL bad and not want to shift. I have driven a DOHC before, and I remember it having MUCH more power. It just seemed like it was lagging or something, my 3100 could par it, or even beat it, or so it felt. I take it thats a problem... Timing belt looked fine, 90k miles, its in extreamely good condition, he's asking $6k and doesn't wanna budge, bad deal? Oh yea and one more thing... there is a drone noise coming from one of the rear wheel wells, its not exhaust because when you rev it doesn't make a difference. Its really noticable when you hit 40mph, he has new brakes.... not sure what that is! Thanks again!

Posted

The shift @ redline issue could be a number of things. Could be vaccum related. Could be the tranny starting to take a shit. I say it's the latter. Tranny problems in an X car usually mean the car has been beat on, or not properly maintained.

Posted

yeah when was the fluid last changed on the tranny? Yeah when a 4T60E mated to a LQ1 starts screwing up and a fluid and filter wont fix it, its probably bad.....JMO. Ask about the tranny fluid

 

Robby

Posted

He just had his tranny serviced about 200 miles ago. Tranny fluid looks good, and he had the reciepts. I'm just more concered about the noise in the back, got any ideas? And how much power if you can describe is the DOHC supposed to have? Sure as hell wasn't much more than my 3100 :-). Thanks guys

Posted

it should give you a nice kick in the ass around 3-3 1/2 thousand rpm. Especially a 96.They have more power than the earlier years of DOHC.

Posted

Was the tranny "serviced"(as in fluid flush/filter) or rebuilt? If it was just flushed, I'd walk away from it, and find a solid tranny X car. IMO, he's hiding something(or trying to, with the flush), especially if it's slipping in the upper rev ranges.

 

As for the noise, is it constant, non-speed related, or does it occur at a certain speed, and go away after you go above/below a set speed? My guess would be a bearing.

 

If you're interested in how an LQ1 should perform, get the car doing about 20-25 mph, and get down on it. Hard. If that's not noticeably faster than your 3100 from the same speed/rpm range, there's something definitely wrong with it.

 

IMO, I'd find another car. Preferably a 5 speed, but that's just me.

Posted

For some reason or another these wheel bearings(rear) go out quite often. I've replaced alot of them at work :)

Posted

i'd run away from that car. sounds like the trans is on its way out, and 6k is way too much IMO.

 

my car shifts nice and firm all the way up to 6500, there shouldnt be any slipping or "not wanting to shift" at all. if it felt like your 3100 there is definitely something wrong, cause my 3.4 pulls like a bat outta hell compared to my buddy's 95 gp w/ 3100.

Posted

6350 is average retail. according to NADA.com Unless it has problems that sounds okay.

Posted

Go with your instinct. If you feel the price is too high, tell them upfront. If they don't like it, Thats their problem. If you pay that amount for it and breaks down at the end of the lot or driveway its your problem. Ask the seller if you can have a mechanic look at it. If he says yeah he'll ride with, WALK AWAY. If he lets you take it alone to have it looked at, then the choice is yours. 95 and on were considered interference motors, not free-wheeling. If the belt breaks while its twisting high rpms, SCREWED. The belt can look fine and just all of a sudden break. It can and does happen with cheaper belts or to improper installation. If you feel the price is a little high try to negotiate with him and tell him you know some things about these cars. We'll help you out, Right people! :) :) :)

Posted

Everyone thanks so much for the help! Yeah I decided to walk away from it. $6k for a 90k milage car seemed way too much when I can get a decent 97-98 GTP with 80k for about $7-8k. I'm still looking! I would LOVE to have a 5 spd, but I can't seem to find one anywhere! Is there anyone that knows of one forsale?

Posted
Everyone thanks so much for the help! Yeah I decided to walk away from it. $6k for a 90k milage car seemed way too much when I can get a decent 97-98 GTP with 80k for about $7-8k. I'm still looking! I would LOVE to have a 5 spd, but I can't seem to find one anywhere! Is there anyone that knows of one forsale?

 

Clutches don't last with alot of HP or alot of boost. :) :)

Posted

Right but there are others out there so take your pick.. I'm using a 284 to withhold 300+ HP soon

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